Ground Control Torque ?

[VAPORBLADE]

Anyone know what I need to torque the allen head bolts to? These are the bolts that move the camber adjustment. Thanks.

[Knockenwelle]

Just ratchet tight. Put some never-seize on them, too, as they thread into aluminum, and you'll be loosening and tightening them regularly. They are also SAE hardware, so be sure to throw that allen socket in your track-day toolbox.

[z31maniac]

I believe GC told me 15lb ft-ish. But I won't swear on it.

[VAPORBLADE]

Thanks guys!

[AndrewBird]

I believe GC told me 15lb ft-ish. But I won't swear on it.

That seems awfully light. I would guess more like 40-50, but that is just a guess.

[z31maniac]

I know, that's what I though too.

Could always call and ask.

[Knockenwelle]

The nut holding the strut rod into the bearing is torqued to 50 ft-lb. The allen bolts that clamp the slider in place are only 5/16 bolts, and do not need a lot of torque. Put 40-50 ft-lb on them, and you'll be Helicoiling the threads...

[nando]

hand tight is more than enough.

[guibo09]

They are also SAE hardware, so be sure to throw that allen socket in your track-day toolbox.

ew, i hate the idea of putting SAE stuff on a metric car.

[Hellabad]

ew, i hate the idea of putting SAE stuff on a metric car.

Its a necessary evil to ensure that GC (thats me) keeps getting real grade 8 bolts as opposed to fake grade 8 (~10.9) metric that the hardware distributors are always trying to slide in the boxes.

The peripheral are all metric because I found a good source, but the perches and sliders remain SAE because I only trust my supplier on those (but not others).

Thats the same reason we only buy bearings direct from Aurora. Thats gonna be a can of worms someday btw. (for somebody else)

If the world was perfect and China would refuse to fake label bolt grades, then we would be 100% metric.


jay

[z31maniac]

Hey, you didn't answer the torque question Gaylord!

PS, thanks for the exhaust link.

[Hellabad]

Hey, you didn't answer the torque question

Torque spec:

For all of you who fixed the flat tires on your BMX bike:
Torque to the exact same as the front wheel on your bike with the wrench that you took from your Moms scissors drawer.

For all of you whose Dad fixed your flat tires:
Get your dad to do it (again) or bring it to a mechanic, but now is not the time to finally start working on your own stuff.

For all of you with fixies:
Go onto craigslist and buy a really old Raleigh torque wrench. Pay too much. Have it powdercoated to match your friends ipod. Set the torque wrench on a hardwood floor. Take pictures and post them all over the internet. Use powdercoated torque wrench to break bolts because you forgot to calibrate it.

So what I'm saying is "hand tight". More bolts are broken with a torque wrench than were ever saved by using one.


Jay

[z31maniac]

[nando]

For all of you with fixies:
Go onto craigslist and buy a really old Raleigh torque wrench. Pay too much. Have it powdercoated to match your friends ipod. Set the torque wrench on a hardwood floor. Take pictures and post them all over the internet. Use powdercoated torque wrench to break bolts because you forgot to calibrate it.

LOL

So what I'm saying is "hand tight".

isn't that what I said? :p

I don't bother with anything that's less than what my regular TW can adjust to (~30ft lbs, but realistically 50), you can easily overtorque most nuts and bolts with a small wrench and your fingers. small allen screws are out of the question.

[Hellabad]

LOL




isn't that what I said? :p

I don't bother with anything that's less than what my regular TW can adjust to (~30ft lbs, but realistically 50), you can easily overtorque most nuts and bolts with a small wrench and your fingers. small allen screws are out of the question.

EXACTLY. I have a stack of "defective" bolts, every one of which was "torqued" with a torque wrench.