Hey IsItElectric?...my GC plates

[Jean]

Wow, I've had mine for over a full season as well and had no such problems. I remember the top bolts don't need to be torqued down much at all, since the bottom plate is pressed into the upper plate.

[bmwpower]

Per the Bentley manual, the recommended torque for the nuts to unite the strut tower to the bearing-plate are 16 ft-lbs. Being that the GC bolts are of similar size, I would use that as a guide.

Yep, right.

Hellabad's answer to me via PM:

"Torque spec for all the bolts/nuts are the same as the stock upper mount nuts, which is 16-18 lb/ft."

[IsItElectric?]

Wow, I've had mine for over a full season as well and had no such problems. I remember the top bolts don't need to be torqued down much at all, since the bottom plate is pressed into the upper plate.

Yes, I have learned from this experience that I did overtorque them. My bad.

But I've also learned that those socket head cap screws you're showing in your picture CAN put a much higher point load on the aluminum, and make it much easier to overtorque because you can use a larger tool to torque them down (vs. the button head cap screws that come with the kit).

That being said, I am now (still) using socked head cap screws on the non-recessed slot (front of car) with BIG hardened thick washers to ensure the point loading is spread out more. I am using the GC-supplied button head cap screws on the recessed slot so I can get more positive camber to drive to-from events.

Right or wrong, that's what I did this past weekend and it worked well. I only used allen wrenches to torque them down and was gentle with them at most.

[Quailane]

Do the steel ones have a steep price difference? I'm scared that someone is going to align my car and torque the hell out of them.

[kishg]

no worries with GC kit, been running them for for 3 seasons with zero issues. i'll be buying the spec e30 plates from them when i swap out my suspension for spec e30 over the winter. i'm gonna miss this setup!!