Tool for tie rod removal

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  • Aptyp
    R3V OG
    • Feb 2008
    • 6584

    #16
    it works like a charm for me every time. I lowered girlfriend's e30 today, took me less than 1 hour per side. Love this tool.


    One of the things you may want to do is put this tool on all the way, I tap it on with a hammer. Also, hit spindle with a round hammer a few times, it helps separate dirt. This tool is amazing, best investment for suspension work.

    Comment

    • SoopaGhetto
      E30 Addict
      • May 2006
      • 573

      #17
      Originally posted by Aptyp
      One of the things you may want to do is put this tool on all the way, I tap it on with a hammer.
      i assume you mean to put the tool on the tightest setting and tap it on the balljoint/strut?

      Originally posted by Aptyp
      Also, hit spindle with a round hammer a few times, it helps separate dirt. This tool is amazing, best investment for suspension work.
      by spindle, are you referring to the threaded part of the ball joint? (not the tool)
      ?

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      • Aptyp
        R3V OG
        • Feb 2008
        • 6584

        #18
        nope, hand on I'll explain with pics

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        • Aptyp
          R3V OG
          • Feb 2008
          • 6584

          #19

          hit with hammer there, don't EVER hit the threads

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          • bmwpower
            E30 Mastermind
            • Jul 2007
            • 1556

            #20
            Does hitting it with a hammer tear the boot at all?
            89 325is track project / 05 x5 / 99 M3
            E30 stuff for sale | Parts I'm looking for

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            • SoopaGhetto
              E30 Addict
              • May 2006
              • 573

              #21
              Originally posted by Aptyp

              hit with hammer there, don't EVER hit the threads
              ah, so use the device until there is no more thread left on the bolt, then hit on the specified area? is there any specific position to have the strut housing?

              all i did was tighten the unit up and was like wtf, this shit didnt pop out like the tie rod end did.
              ?

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              • dude8383
                Forum Sponsor
                • Jan 2005
                • 10387

                #22
                would be cool to see some of the tools in action!
                IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

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                • Aptyp
                  R3V OG
                  • Feb 2008
                  • 6584

                  #23
                  Originally posted by dude8383
                  would be cool to see some of the tools in action!
                  Tell you what guys, tomorrow I will do a video. I need replace a tie-rod, so you get o see this awesome tool in action.

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                  • SoopaGhetto
                    E30 Addict
                    • May 2006
                    • 573

                    #24
                    could you separate the ball joint for fun?
                    ?

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                    • Stu
                      R3V Elite
                      • Oct 2003
                      • 4083

                      #25
                      The tie-rod joint is an easy hit with the hammer compared to the control arm. The control arm joint has a larger tapered fitting that usually requires you to really lay into it a good 4-5 times.

                      On a car that hasn't had any suspension work done in a decade, it'll take longer to get the tapered fitting loose. On a car with rust...I can't imagine :D

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                      • Wh33lhop
                        R3V OG
                        • Feb 2009
                        • 11705

                        #26
                        I was just wondering this a few days ago, wound up calling off a job since I didn't want to fuck up my tie rod boots. I just bought a pickle fork for the ball joints and it works well as long as you don't mind completely boning up your boots.

                        In for the video for shits and giggles.
                        paint sucks

                        Comment

                        • Aptyp
                          R3V OG
                          • Feb 2008
                          • 6584

                          #27
                          that's the reason I don't like forks, BUT sometime I do use it, especially for inner ball joint. I spray WD40 or any lubricant or grease on, this way fork slides over boot.

                          Comment

                          • bmws50b30
                            E30 Enthusiast
                            • Aug 2005
                            • 1151

                            #28
                            where's the pics and video? I need to separate my ball joints andwant to get the right tool for it. Thank :p

                            1991 330is


                            Comment

                            • Alpine003
                              Grease Monkey
                              • Aug 2006
                              • 376

                              #29
                              I've tried most of them and this is the best one I've tried so far:

                              $20 from Harbor Freight and you can usually get 20% off coupon. Watch out for cast versions as they will break easily. This one is forged and has 2 positions. Notice the various curves, dips, pockets on this one vs. the Sears model. This has the thinner end so it slides between the boot and gives less chance of it ripping. This one is clearly better and also fits both ball joint and outer tie rods.

                              Yes, I'm preaching because I recently bought this and found it to be very good. Took literally less than 5 min to do both L/R ball joints and tie rods. ;)

                              Comment

                              • Wh33lhop
                                R3V OG
                                • Feb 2009
                                • 11705

                                #30
                                Originally posted by Alpine003
                                I've tried most of them and this is the best one I've tried so far:

                                $20 from Harbor Freight and you can usually get 20% off coupon. Watch out for cast versions as they will break easily. This one is forged and has 2 positions. Notice the various curves, dips, pockets on this one vs. the Sears model. This has the thinner end so it slides between the boot and gives less chance of it ripping. This one is clearly better and also fits both ball joint and outer tie rods.

                                Yes, I'm preaching because I recently bought this and found it to be very good. Took literally less than 5 min to do both L/R ball joints and tie rods. ;)

                                http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99849

                                To save the trouble of searching for it.
                                paint sucks

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