Ground Control

[Yeee30]

with 550/700 = only on hard bumps in the rear and full lock

with 650/900..i shouldn't

[D-rock]

i'm at 550/700

after the swap and new wheels i'm going 650/900

reason: want to be slammed without rubbing

Are you rubbing with that set up! I feel thats what i want but that seems it might be to rough.

[s50e30m3]

question for a m3 e30 wth 24v I can use the spring rate of e36 front h&r race (345) and h&r e30 m3 race (570) in the back with billy sport what you think? i cant get to hi because of the bumpy roads and craters here in P.R. and i and planning to use skid plates to go lower

[Jean]

^ +10. spring rates on different cars feel different

[nando]

250/320 is like H&R race. lol. plus you can hardly compare an E90's suspension to the E30.

[D-rock]

550/700 sound hard!

I have 250/320 on my e90 and that was not bad but 700 my god!

I will be slamming my e30 so i guess thats what i need.

[Holland]

Jean, I think Holland was talking about a "true coilover" rear. In which the spring is no longer located on the trailing arm, but over the shock itself.

Because of the difference in motion ratio, the needed spring rate will change, and serious reinforcement of the RSM area is recommended.

You'll also lose of wheel/tire clearance with a true coilover setup in the rear.

That's basically what I was wondering. Everyone says they got GC coilovers but I was confused by the rear being a true coilover or not but that doesn't seem to be the case. The reason I was wondering was because if they were indeed true coilovers in the rear I would need a rear strut brace for support and then I would lose the ability to have a removable stereo in my DD. That was my concern.

[z31maniac]

I had my swap car so low, it actually ride better on the stiffer springs.

[Yeee30]

i'm at 550/700

after the swap and new wheels i'm going 650/900

reason: want to be slammed without rubbing

[Iain]

I think you could do a true MacPherson strut rear-end in an E30 without too many hassles, but I'd DEFINITELY do a LOT of bracing of the tower.

[Wh33lhop]

i do

you can get away with stiffer rates if you have matching, quality dampers. where the ride sucks is when the dampers can't properly control the spring. I would think 300/500 would be too soft, the ride quality may actually be worse, depending on ride height and suspension travel.

I wouldn't be lowering it that much to begin with, I'm trying to retain stock "junker" looks for the lulz. I've got some Konis, the fronts are Corrodo inserts, I think they'll work alright.

I had 450/375 on my last car, which was about 3300lbs with me in it. Those weren't track car stiff but even with all the chassis bracing and the shortened Konis I had on it it would get a bit bumpy (and I wasn't even that low). I'd like to run 500# front or so (still learning about rear rates in relation to fronts because of the different motion ratio) with my 22mm front swaybar and M3 endlinks, but for a DD I don't think the ride will be too nice.

[nando]

i do

you can get away with stiffer rates if you have matching, quality dampers. where the ride sucks is when the dampers can't properly control the spring. I would think 300/500 would be too soft, the ride quality may actually be worse, depending on ride height and suspension travel.

[Wh33lhop]

Holy crap, some of you guys are running ridiculous rates. How many of you with 550lbs+ front springs are DDing these cars?

When I get springs I'll probably be in the 350-500 range in the front, but I always considered that to be on the stiff end for a DD.

[nando]

I always wonder about true coilovers in the rear. Trent did it a long time ago, without anything fancy. It may have been because his was a light '84 shell, but he didn't have any problems and he actually tried to make it break. i'd even think with some reinforcing plates it would be fine, unless your car is a rusty NE pos.

I also don't think you lose much or any clearance. you will hit the insides of the rear tire wells before you hit the rear shocks.

[z31maniac]

Jean, I think Holland was talking about a "true coilover" rear. In which the spring is no longer located on the trailing arm, but over the shock itself.

Because of the difference in motion ratio, the needed spring rate will change, and serious reinforcement of the RSM area is recommended.

You'll also lose of wheel/tire clearance with a true coilover setup in the rear.