Vibration when turning after replacing shocks and springs?

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  • unrlmth
    E30 Addict
    • May 2010
    • 467

    #1

    Vibration when turning after replacing shocks and springs?

    I just got done replacing my shocks (Bilstein Sports), springs (H&R Sport), and tie rods. Now whenever I make a left turn there is a slight buzzing or vibration coming front the right front wheel. Any ideas on what this could be?
    1989 325i Alpineweiß II
  • Sagaris
    R3VLimited
    • Sep 2009
    • 2243

    #2
    How much of a left turn are we talking? Do you think it could be rubbing on the plastic fender liners?

    Comment

    • unrlmth
      E30 Addict
      • May 2010
      • 467

      #3
      Originally posted by Sagaris
      How much of a left turn are we talking? Do you think it could be rubbing on the plastic fender liners?
      Nope it will happen with the wheel maybe 30 degrees to the left.
      1989 325i Alpineweiß II

      Comment

      • unrlmth
        E30 Addict
        • May 2010
        • 467

        #4
        So I took the wheel off and it seems like theres a little bit of play in the joint where the strut assembly meets the control arm. Would that cause the vibration that I am hearing?
        1989 325i Alpineweiß II

        Comment

        • E-Thirty
          E30 Fanatic
          • Aug 2006
          • 1331

          #5
          Very well could be. How do the control arm bushings look?
          Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
          Do you feel like something is trying to penetrate your butthole?

          Comment

          • JGood
            R3V OG
            • Jan 2004
            • 7959

            #6
            Originally posted by unrlmth
            So I took the wheel off and it seems like theres a little bit of play in the joint where the strut assembly meets the control arm. Would that cause the vibration that I am hearing?
            Either the ball joint is shot or the ball joint nut is loose. If the ball joint stud coming up through the hole in the strut housing is moving relative to the strut, then the nut is loose. If it's moving relative to the control arm, the ball joint is bad.

            This usually results in a clunking over small bumps rather then a vibration, but who knows...
            85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
            e30 restoration and V8 swap
            24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

            Comment

            • unrlmth
              E30 Addict
              • May 2010
              • 467

              #7
              Originally posted by JGood
              Either the ball joint is shot or the ball joint nut is loose. If the ball joint stud coming up through the hole in the strut housing is moving relative to the strut, then the nut is loose. If it's moving relative to the control arm, the ball joint is bad.

              This usually results in a clunking over small bumps rather then a vibration, but who knows...
              It was definitely the joint. I just hope that that is what is causing the vibration and not something else. Everything else feels very solid with no play.
              1989 325i Alpineweiß II

              Comment

              • JGood
                R3V OG
                • Jan 2004
                • 7959

                #8
                Originally posted by unrlmth
                It was definitely the joint. I just hope that that is what is causing the vibration and not something else. Everything else feels very solid with no play.
                Well, there really isn't much else. When you get a new control arm (recommended, as doing just the ball joint is a royal PITA), you'll want to get a new control arm bushing as well. Might as well do both left and right sides, if you can. The only other front suspension pieces are the upper strut bearings and the tie rods. Make sure you get Lemforder brand control arms, well worth the extra few dollars.
                85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
                e30 restoration and V8 swap
                24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

                Comment

                • unrlmth
                  E30 Addict
                  • May 2010
                  • 467

                  #9
                  Originally posted by JGood
                  Well, there really isn't much else. When you get a new control arm (recommended, as doing just the ball joint is a royal PITA), you'll want to get a new control arm bushing as well. Might as well do both left and right sides, if you can. The only other front suspension pieces are the upper strut bearings and the tie rods. Make sure you get Lemforder brand control arms, well worth the extra few dollars.
                  Yea I replaced the tie rod when i did the suspension and that all feels solid. I ordered the CA. (Ties rods and CAs are both Lemforder). The boot was ripped on the outer ball joint and the inner one wasn't feeling all that smooth either, so I think it's good I went with a new one. Probably wont be until tues though when i can get the bushings pushed in and out.
                  1989 325i Alpineweiß II

                  Comment

                  • unrlmth
                    E30 Addict
                    • May 2010
                    • 467

                    #10
                    Well I installed the CA, and the vibration is still there. The only other possibility that I can think of is the wheel bearing. . .
                    1989 325i Alpineweiß II

                    Comment

                    • Sagaris
                      R3VLimited
                      • Sep 2009
                      • 2243

                      #11
                      I now have the same issue :P I replaced my suspension a month ago and just this morning I noticed that when I turn left, the front right wheel makes a faint noise. Theres no vibration per se, but if this was a FWD car I would immediately think something was up with the differential, thats what the noise reminds me of. It doesn't look to be rubbing on the fender plastics. I'm thinking wheel bearing. I'm going to jack it up and check it out tonight. Let me know if you find a resolution to yours since it seems we have the exact same issue.

                      Comment

                      • JoeyBones
                        E30 Addict
                        • Feb 2010
                        • 422

                        #12
                        do a series of turns left to right at about 10mph and listen closely. If you turn left and load the right wheel and there is noise it's a wheel bearing...You can also jack up the front and try and shimmy the wheel with hands at 12 and 6, if there is any play...wheel bearing.

                        Comment

                        • unrlmth
                          E30 Addict
                          • May 2010
                          • 467

                          #13
                          Originally posted by JoeyBones
                          do a series of turns left to right at about 10mph and listen closely. If you turn left and load the right wheel and there is noise it's a wheel bearing...You can also jack up the front and try and shimmy the wheel with hands at 12 and 6, if there is any play...wheel bearing.
                          Yea that is whats happening. Maybe I was just hoping that replacing the other stuff would fix it. (It all needed to be replaced anyways and cured the shaking under braking so it's not like it was a waste of time/money)
                          1989 325i Alpineweiß II

                          Comment

                          • unrlmth
                            E30 Addict
                            • May 2010
                            • 467

                            #14
                            Replacing the wheel bearing fixed it. Thanks :)
                            1989 325i Alpineweiß II

                            Comment

                            • Sagaris
                              R3VLimited
                              • Sep 2009
                              • 2243

                              #15
                              Good! Did you replace it yourself? If so, what brand of bearing+hub assembly did you go with, how much was it/where from, and how did you press the new bearing+hub assembly back on the stub axle?

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