Rear Rim hitting fender

[GThomas]

Hey wondering if you guys ever had issues similar to this. Recently put on my 16x9s and i noticed after a few test drives that it seems the rears are rubbing the outer lip of the rim on the inside of the fender (which are rolled). It looks as if its rubbing some of the clear coat/polish off the rim which is not good. I've got 450s in the rear which i think may be the issue. Thinking of going to 750 rears but after talking with GC it looks like i'll have to change out the hardware because of the smaller spring diameter. Any suggestions of rates, or anyone relate to this issue? Thanks.

[Pussy30]

450s geez. Yeah get something stiffer and possible roll your fenders more. Are you running stretched tires? Usually the tire would rub first.

[GThomas]

Yeah tires rub a bit but only on larger bumps, i think its just all the movement from the 450s.

[E30SPDFRK]

Happened to my RF's all the time, I was only on 475's. Either get a better roll or get spacers and make only the tire rub ;)

[GThomas]

Happened to my RF's all the time, I was only on 475's. Either get a better roll or get spacers and make only the tire rub ;)

What size spacers did u use?

[Philo]

I recommend upping the spring in the rear. Something around 600 should do the trick. Or really, really roll the fenders.

Also, i'm not sure what 'hardware' GC would be talking about. There is the spring, threaded sleeve, and adjustment collar. Not much as far as expense goes on their end for the necessary parts considering the price they charge for a spring. They should just throw it in, or be able to give you a spring that will work with the current items.

[GThomas]

I recommend upping the spring in the rear. Something around 600 should do the trick. Or really, really roll the fenders.

Also, i'm not sure what 'hardware' GC would be talking about. There is the spring, threaded sleeve, and adjustment collar. Not much as far as expense goes on their end for the necessary parts considering the price they charge for a spring. They should just throw it in, or be able to give you a spring that will work with the current items.

Just spoke with Jay from goundcontrol and he steered me away from changing the spring rates saying that it wouldn't make a difference. He said that the fenders need to be rolled more because even with a stiffer spring it would still hit. Just checked and the current rate is 480. So now i'm kinda stuck on what to do. The PO rolled the rears and told me that they are pretty much as far as they can go because the factory undercoating is caked on the other side. As for changing the hardware, GC said this is necessary because the springs at 480 have a 2.5 inch diameter and anything higher is 2.25 inch and requires new hardware to fit...

So now i'm just kinda stuck wondering what to do...
A.raise it up a bunch and hope it doesn't hit anymore.
B.Put in a 5mm spacer and have it just hit the tire on bumps
C.See if i can roll the fenders a touch more
D.Change over all the rears to 700ish rates and buy all new hardware to accommodate the smaller springs.

[sarcasmkillsme]

Just spoke with Jay from goundcontrol and he steered me away from changing the spring rates saying that it wouldn't make a difference. He said that the fenders need to be rolled more because even with a stiffer spring it would still hit. Just checked and the current rate is 480. So now i'm kinda stuck on what to do. The PO rolled the rears and told me that they are pretty much as far as they can go because the factory undercoating is caked on the other side. As for changing the hardware, GC said this is necessary because the springs at 480 have a 2.5 inch diameter and anything higher is 2.25 inch and requires new hardware to fit...

So now i'm just kinda stuck wondering what to do...
A.raise it up a bunch and hope it doesn't hit anymore.
B.Put in a 5mm spacer and have it just hit the tire on bumps
C.See if i can roll the fenders a touch more
D.Change over all the rears to 700ish rates and buy all new hardware to accommodate the smaller springs.

C. and D.

[Hellabad]

By the way, the GC 2.5 inch hardware can not only be machined to fit 2.25, they are pre-marked. This is how many people turn their street cars into race cars, that GC actually marks the parts to make it easier. So you don't really NEED to buy new parts, just machine them.

But I think you need to hellaroll the fenders no matter what anyways.


Jay

[IRON-E]

Along the lines of the OPs questions; I'm just getting into the coilover world and would like to know, what size height and spring rates people use for front and rear?

Fronts, I have heard that best for street and light track use is 400 rates and rears 650 rates since I'm carrying a set of heavy 12 inch speakers in the trunk. What do you guys suggest? The last thing I want or need is to bottom out on my first trial of spring rates...

Sorry to thread jack OP.

[E30SPDFRK]

What size spacers did u use?

I just dealt with it. But depending on your tire size and how well they stretch you may need quite a large spacer. Et3 is just about flush wheel to fender for a 9 in the rear so if your tires expose the whole lip you probably would need to go more than that. If they run wide you could probably get away with smaller.

What shocks are you running?

[Philo]

Spacer seems like a band-aid that 'kinda' works. Causing the tire to rub instead of the wheel is just moving the problem. I'm sticking with more spring rate, and maybe a little pull on the fenders if needed.

. . . Or you could just raise the rear up a bit.

[GThomas]

Spacer seems like a band-aid that 'kinda' works. Causing the tire to rub instead of the wheel is just moving the problem. I'm sticking with more spring rate, and maybe a little pull on the fenders if needed.

. . . Or you could just raise the rear up a bit.

Just ordered 700's from GC, i'll also raise it up a touch and i'm working on renting a fender roller so i can try and push them a bit more. Thanks for the help guys, ill keep ya posted on how it turns out.