Power steering delete

[gmyers395]

If there is still fluid in the rack when its either sealed up or you just cut the belt the steering will be hard. Mine was easy as soon as I cut the belt because I had a gawd awful leak. That being the reason for me deleting it in the first place. So if you get rid of power steering make sure all of the fluid is out of the rack, and its easy as something that's really easy.

[XvillainousX]

On my race car I just disconnected everything and ran it like that for several years. My friend cut and crimped the line.

[seatown88]

If there is still fluid in the rack when its either sealed up or you just cut the belt the steering will be hard. Mine was easy as soon as I cut the belt because I had a gawd awful leak. That being the reason for me deleting it in the first place. So if you get rid of power steering make sure all of the fluid is out of the rack, and its easy as something that's really easy.

This

With the hoses removed, turn the steering wheel lock to lock and a majority of the fluid will come out and that's all that is needed, plug it, block it, or whatever you want to do after that. I still think short bolts are the cleanest, simplest, and cheapest way to remove the powersteering system

[Philo]

I hope everyone who is plugging the holes, or using "short bolts" realizes that air (and/or Fluid) needs to travel out of the system through the holes being plugged. Otherwise steering effort will increase and the inner seals will blow.

[Holland]

I've ran my rack empty for a couple years now with no bolts in the holes. It's great (2.7 z3)

How is this? I really want to run the same setup. So from my understanding, one removes the PS lines, empties the fluid from the where the lines once were (not the actual rack part) and just runs the delete block. I want the 2.7 rack but I hear it's a nightmare without PS.

[Earendil]

I hope everyone who is plugging the holes, or using "short bolts" realizes that air (and/or Fluid) needs to travel out of the system through the holes being plugged. Otherwise steering effort will increase and the inner seals will blow.

If there were still fluid in there, perhaps? But it should be able to accept a little compressed air. The internet is full of people that have straight up plugged the holes and had no problem for years.

I'll let you know soon though. After having not had power steering for years, I finally deleted the equipment for it. I plugged the holes using the original hose bolts, but with washers and JB Weld to seal it and make a tight fit.

[mr.vang]

i wouldn't loop mine. either get the plate or screw those two bolts back in with some washer. that's what i did.

[Philo]

All i'm saying that compressing the air produces much more effort to turn, rather than allowing the fluid to flow freely. Whether the pressure compounded is enough to damage the internals is doubtful, due to the fact that the original PS system puts quite a load to begin with.

[seatown88]

I hope everyone who is plugging the holes, or using "short bolts" realizes that air (and/or Fluid) needs to travel out of the system through the holes being plugged. Otherwise steering effort will increase and the inner seals will blow.

If there is any increased effort it is hardly noticible. There are numerous pro3 cars running with plugs in the holes. However, draining the fluid is necessary otherwise the rack will hydraulically lock.

[Wanganstyle]

How is this? I really want to run the same setup. So from my understanding, one removes the PS lines, empties the fluid from the where the lines once were (not the actual rack part) and just runs the delete block. I want the 2.7 rack but I hear it's a nightmare without PS.

I ran the 2.7 rack powerless with S54 in my old E36. car was ~ 3,000 lbs, and would have been fine to drive but the tires were too big (245/40/18) wheels were NOT too heavy, mainly tire weight; also traction patch was too big to overcome easily at low parking lot speeds. My Arms got buff, was using OEM e36M steering wheel.

if it was on my E30, it would be great with no power and 2.7locking rack.

[Holland]

I ran the 2.7 rack powerless with S54 in my old E36. car was ~ 3,000 lbs, and would have been fine to drive but the tires were too big (245/40/18) wheels were NOT too heavy, mainly tire weight; also traction patch was too big to overcome easily at low parking lot speeds. My Arms got buff, was using OEM e36M steering wheel.

if it was on my E30, it would be great with no power and 2.7locking rack.

Excellent, that's what I wanted to hear.

[Heysüß]

Excellent, that's what I wanted to hear.

+1!!!!

and just to be on the safe side I'm thinking about getting this looping power steering delete block thing. I bought the z3 rack "new" (remanufactured) and it cost me a pretty penny, the last thing I want to do is fuck it up. Better safe than sorry right?

[DatUtahGuy]

sOOOOOO, just to revive a forgotten thread ;)

my steering rack leaks, more like squirts, and I've wanted to do the PS delete for a while now.
what you lot are saying, is that I don't have to replace the rack, just take out everything associated with power steering, plug the holes in the rack and be on my merry way? there is no fluid left in my rack as of now.

[blefevre]

sOOOOOO, just to revive a forgotten thread ;)

my steering rack leaks, more like squirts, and I've wanted to do the PS delete for a while now.
what you lot are saying, is that I don't have to replace the rack, just take out everything associated with power steering, plug the holes in the rack and be on my merry way? there is no fluid left in my rack as of now.

Sure, or just cut the belt so you don't burn up the pump, or loop it, or bolt it, etc. Really it doesn't matter as long as the belt is out of there. It's fine if it runs "dry".

[Philo]

Yep. Remove the belt at the least, and more components if you want to clean up the bay and get rid of extra weight. Drain all of the fluid in the rack, and plug it, bolt it, loop it, or just leave it open.