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    Easiest method to remove rear springs

    this?

    -Jack up rear of car. no ebrake on, not in gear.
    -remove wheels
    -place hydraulic jack under diff
    -remove diff bolts
    -ease jack/diff down by about 2"

    this should allow enough clearance to get my trailarms to drop enough so the oem springs will pop out, so I can just slip my new springs in?

    anyone know of a quicker/easier way?
    Originally posted by flyboyx
    i have watched my dog lick himself off a few times

    #2
    Jack up wheel
    Remove wheel
    Remove lower bolt from shock
    Let TA go down, use a jack to prevent it from ripping the brake line off
    Pull spring out

    - E30, DSM, Golf R, Mazda 3 Skyactiv

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      #3
      Um, how would unbolting the diff do anything to the trailing arm?
      2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
      2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
      1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
      1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
      - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
      1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
      1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

      Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
      Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

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        #4
        Originally posted by nrubenstein View Post
        Um, how would unbolting the diff do anything to the trailing arm?
        Seriously..and you don't know how much of a bitch it is to get that diff back into place
        Originally posted by TSI
        ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
        OEM+

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          #5
          Originally posted by nrubenstein View Post
          Um, how would unbolting the diff do anything to the trailing arm?

          exactly what I was thinking.

          I did a quick google search @ work, as my Bentley is at home and this is what came up.

          didn't seem right to me.

          check and gotcha on just removing the shock bolt. either 17 or 19mm i'm guessing.

          I want this $hit done in less than 1hr.
          Originally posted by flyboyx
          i have watched my dog lick himself off a few times

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by lolcantturn View Post
            Seriously..and you don't know how much of a bitch it is to get that diff back into place
            never touched my rear diff, don't plan to until I grenade it.
            Originally posted by flyboyx
            i have watched my dog lick himself off a few times

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by nrubenstein View Post
              Um, how would unbolting the diff do anything to the trailing arm?
              i think he means the drive shafts. I know mine didn't let the trailing arm drop fully until they were unbolted, but I was removing factory springs.
              '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
              NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
              Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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                #8
                A far better way to to do this is to get the rear of the car up on jack stands. Disconnect the sway links on both sides. Then lift a trailing arm with a jack and remove the fasteners holding the upper shock mount to the shock tower. Lower the trailing arm, remove the shock, and remove then the spring. For stock springs you will probably still need to compress the springs to get them out. Assembly is the reverse.

                The advantage to disconnecting the shock from the body, rather than from the trailing arm will become apparent at reassembly time if you do it the other way. It is difficult to get the trailing arm and shock in exactly the right position to start the lower bolt. And there is a risk of cross threading the bolt. With the upper end of the shock free it is much easier get the bolt in.
                The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                  A far better way to to do this is to get the rear of the car up on jack stands. Disconnect the sway links on both sides. Then lift a trailing arm with a jack and remove the fasteners holding the upper shock mount to the shock tower. Lower the trailing arm, remove the shock, and remove then the spring. For stock springs you will probably still need to compress the springs to get them out. Assembly is the reverse.

                  The advantage to disconnecting the shock from the body, rather than from the trailing arm will become apparent at reassembly time if you do it the other way. It is difficult to get the trailing arm and shock in exactly the right position to start the lower bolt. And there is a risk of cross threading the bolt. With the upper end of the shock free it is much easier get the bolt in.
                  Hm, I've never had a problem getting the lower bolt to line up and i've done it a bunch of times. But yeah, try either way.

                  - E30, DSM, Golf R, Mazda 3 Skyactiv

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by blefevre View Post
                    Hm, I've never had a problem getting the lower bolt to line up and i've done it a bunch of times. But yeah, try either way.
                    Same way IMO. Although the upper shock mount on the Cabrio's would be much easier, less time rolling under the car. Good idea jlevie.
                    Last edited by cabriodster87; 08-29-2011, 01:00 PM.
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                    Reich und Roll!

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by blefevre View Post
                      Jack up wheel
                      Remove wheel
                      Remove lower bolt from shock
                      Let TA go down, use a jack to prevent it from ripping the brake line off
                      Pull spring out
                      ahm... this!
                      Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
                      ---------------------------------
                      89 E30 S52
                      ---------------------------------
                      Transaction Feedback.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by nrubenstein View Post
                        Um, how would unbolting the diff do anything to the trailing arm?
                        isn't it to put less stress on the axles?

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                          #13
                          How's this for handywork.

                          Got car jacked up, wheel off, liquid Wrenched the lower shock bolt.
                          Let it sit for a few minute and grabbed the impact gun

                          Brrrzzzzppp!

                          Falls right down as predicted, however sheered the bolt right off. Cleared the shock, however the end bit of the bolt is sliced into the lower shock mount. Ffs. Tried drilling it out, nothing.

                          What now?
                          Originally posted by flyboyx
                          i have watched my dog lick himself off a few times

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                            #14
                            This thread makes me :rofl: and at the same time.

                            E30 M3 / E30 325is / E34 525iT / E34 535i

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                              #15
                              Its not my 1st time at this rodeo either. My '85 was much less seized and tempermental as my '90 is. 1/2 the miles on it to ffs. Guess it new rear trailing arm or limp to the garage where they can extract it.
                              Originally posted by flyboyx
                              i have watched my dog lick himself off a few times

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