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what do i need to know about big sways?

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    what do i need to know about big sways?

    ive got h&r races w billy sports. been planning on 25/22 IE bars but after some reading and a search some questions and concerns have developed, I dont want my car to start getting "twitchy" this concern is based on the planned use of a 22mm rear sway, is this a valid concern? unpredictable oversteer is not my objective, high speed level cornering is. This is a daily driven car.

    Will I Need to weld in reinforcement plates to the TA's?

    How am I supposed to install the sways at ride height (to avoid preload)when I have to jack the car up on stands? how do ppl do this? and is it important?

    If there is anything I missed you feel pertinent please let me know
    Thanks

    #2
    I always felt IE bars were too large but I'm old school and they've done well selling them. You're basically connecting both sides together and the large bar will put stress on all mounting points. You WILL need to reinforce the front strut mounts (if M3 style), mounts on subframe, rear mounts and trailing arm mounts preferably with a gusset. You adjust the links with the wheels on ramps or by trial and error.
    "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

    85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
    88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
    89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
    91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

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      #3
      I can't say whether the 25/22 sways would make the car twitchy, but I can tell you that the 22/19 sways will not. The smaller sways are a pretty good match for H&R Race springs and Bilstein Sport shocks. That being a Spec E30 suspension.

      With either sway bar you will need to weld reinforcements to the link pickup points on the trailing arms. You can only adjust the sway links when the car is sitting on the wheels. The first step, with the link on one side disconnected, is to adjust the other link to get the end of the bar approximately horizontal. Then adjust the other link so it can be connected without putting pressure on the sway.

      Hint: start with the rear sway at full soft. If the car's weight balance is good and the alignment is good (zero front toe, 1/16" total rear toe, and enough front and rear camber) it should have some understeer. Stiffen up the rear sway just a bit at a time until the understeer is minimal.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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        #4
        check out my build thread. page 1 & 2 is where i had the original tabs welded on. i had to change one of my trailing arms due to a separate incident but youll see. you ABSOLUTELY WILL NEED REAR TA SUPPORT. otherwise ive heard the rear sway can rip off. I have some plates welded to my trailing arm so the sway doesnt rip off that.
        Next im buying these: http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/E30-...e30swaymt.html
        I heard the sway could rip off the chassis and once I took a look again at the design it s a poor design to the frame. Especially if your certain on 22mm in the rear. I have the ST 22mm/19mm sways and its tight. It even came with the TA tabs. dont take this the wrong way but why do u need 22mm rear sway? thats BIG and may result in twitchy handling but im only speculating. i havnt rode in a car with that setup

        *edit: ive seen turner sells something for front sway reinforcement but I dont know if its needed. i guess it wouldnt hurt right
        Last edited by ROLLingKING; 12-15-2011, 06:19 AM.
        m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
        build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510

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          #5
          this is separate but i suggest u get like a 22mm IE front bar and 19mm rear or 22mm rear if your stuck on it and the race skids cross brace. the sways do help but only to a certain extent. when i had the cross brace it tightened up the car and made it handle incredible for hard entry and pulling through turns. it will not fit with the ST front 22mm bar though

          good luck man
          m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
          build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510

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            #6
            I'm pretty sure if you buy a set of sways from ie they come with the billet reinforcements. I think I would just need the TA plates. I'm hoping to hear from someone running this same setup.

            @jlevie
            Is there a limit in SE30 on the sway size?
            My toes is set slightly in in the front and rear is stock. Getting another alignment tomorrow as I just put spacers in the rear under and above the spring pads. Should I have them set a zero toe?

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              #7
              Originally posted by bastianshaw View Post
              Getting another alignment tomorrow as I just put spacers in the rear under and above the spring pads. Should I have them set a zero toe?
              check out this article at motoiq:



              I run 2 deg out in the front, it's probably border on to aggressive, but you think about turning and it turns. it's amazing.
              '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
              NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
              Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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                #8
                For clarification...

                IE offers a 25/22 kit, as well as a 22/19 kit. Which one, is really up to you. Frankly the 25/22 would be overkill for street use, but I know of many who run them anyways, and love them. I also know of an equal amount of people running the 22/19 kit, depends on the driver.

                The best way to answer your question would be to find someone within your area that has them and ask for a ride along, and to ask IE yourself.

                bastianshaw - Spec bars are going to be 22/19 w/non adjustable front bar (if you look at spec E30 sways the only difference from the street version is the lack of multiple adjustment points on the front bar.)
                ADAMS Autosport

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