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Megan Racing Coilover Install

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    #16
    on the picture where you cut the housing you left an inch or two, then when you went to seat and weld the megan housing it appears that you removed that inch or two of the old housing .. the reason i ask is because i was curious about alignment, at first i thought the 2 inches would do all the aligning for the megan housing but then it was gone so can you explain what happen there and if i get a set like this would i just cut off the whole housing and it should self align after getting it in with its snug fit then just take it to be welded...????

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      #17
      the 2 inch nub that sticks up does all the alignment for you its up inside the megan lower housing. Make sense? the ID of the megan lower portion is 51mm and the OD of the stock strut is 51mm interference fit then weld.

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        #18
        Have you had this problem?

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          #19
          no i definitely do not have that problem. That guy did not install them correctly, the nut under the adjuster is clearly not tight, or the bearing is totally shot. Also that dampening adjuster knob unscrews which he seems unaware of not sure why it would matter if you put it on before or after you installed the shocks on the car.

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            #20
            Originally posted by chrisbmx68 View Post
            no i definitely do not have that problem. That guy did not install them correctly, the nut under the adjuster is clearly not tight, or the bearing is totally shot. Also that dampening adjuster knob unscrews which he seems unaware of not sure why it would matter if you put it on before or after you installed the shocks on the car.
            There is part 2 to that video where he takes off the adjuster and tightengs the nut underneath, from the sounds of it megan racing does this from factory (leaves the nut loose) as least thats the word. I mean its an easy fix, I just want to see you had come across it also. from your response you haven't which is good. Will you be tracking these coilovers soon?


            here is part 2 btw.


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              #21
              yeah I mean that's just like common sense when installing a suspension. Tighten the top strut nut. I used an impact gun on mine after swapping the front springs. I doubt I will really ever track this car, I have a rabbit that's setup a lot more for that kind of thing.

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                #22
                Originally posted by chrisbmx68 View Post
                yeah I mean that's just like common sense when installing a suspension. Tighten the top strut nut. I used an impact gun on mine after swapping the front springs. I doubt I will really ever track this car, I have a rabbit that's setup a lot more for that kind of thing.
                yeah, and that's a bummer. I was actually going to go with these for mine a while back but I need someones opinion thats actually tracked them. And you said for daily driving they were great correct?

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                  #23
                  they have been doing well so far, slightly stiffer than my previous h&r's but dampening is much better. I wouldn't go stiffer than 6k 8k on the street. I don't know how guys claim that stiffer than that rides great, the chassis would just end up being the most compliant piece of the puzzle. Cant honestly speak to track performance sorry

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                    #24
                    14k front and 10k rear is best for dd. 8/6k will bottom out.

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                      #25
                      I hope that is a joke... the fact that you want to run a higher rate in the front than the rear makes me disregard your comment anyway.

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                        #26
                        8k front 10k rear...like it but would be happy with more in the rear prob 10k front 12k rear

                        Daily driven and its no issue

                        Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
                        -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by chrisbmx68 View Post
                          I hope that is a joke... the fact that you want to run a higher rate in the front than the rear makes me disregard your comment anyway.
                          lol, I got that wrong 10k front and 14k rear is my setup.

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                            #28
                            I mean whatever floats your boat, that kind of rate does not seem necessary to me on a street car.

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                              #29
                              How are these Megans holding up? I'm considering getting a set with 6K/8K just like yourself but I'd like to be sure that the ride quality is superior to my jstock/bilstein set up.

                              Would you say you're still happy with the rates for everyday driving?

                              ZF320 | M50 Mani | TRM + 21.5lb Injectors + 3.5in MAF | E36 M3 Rack/Driveshaft | Megan Coilovers | 002R/452's
                              In the works: UUC Evo 3/DSSR, JB Racing lightweight Flywheel, Shrick cams, BBK (yet to be determined)
                              I NEED A WINGLESS AW TRUNK LID PLEASE PM ME IF YOU HAVE ONE!

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                                #30
                                They are holding up well and I am happy with the rates for dd duty. If anything the shocks feel better now that they are broken in. I have probably like 1500 miles on everything. coming from the j stocks and with that 6 cyl up front you might be happier with higher rates like 8k front and 10k rear. I have an m42 so there is less weight and other people def seem to like slightly more spring than I. As long as you keep the rear stiffer than the front the balance should stay good.

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