Steering Rack Died

[MattBimmer]

suggestions on whether to get E36 or Z3 rack.... also do I have to get a new high pressure hose in order to just install the new rack. It seems like thats the only thing thats different in the two rcks.

[Herr Faust Schinken]

I have a normal e36 rack 3.2 turns lock to lock I think , you don't have to get a new high pressure hose , it is good idea to get new hoses though along with a new res.

[jeffnhiscars]

I've done this swap 2x recently into non-airbag cars. Once into an M10 and then into an M20 both X using an e36 rack and re-using the stock hoses. On the M20 I did tie rods and CA's at the same time and used new e36 rod assemblies. Either way is acceptable but the e36 tierods are a bit beefier and they were actually cheaper than the e30's.

The M20 swap required a bit of bending to the metal hose ends to get good clearance and in both cases you have to modify the steering knuckle in a non-airbag car.

The e36 rack is a GREAT upgrade and really suits the nature of the car. I was in Asheville yesterday at an e30 gathering (great time btw) and had a blast driving the switchbacks coming down off Mt Mitchell w the e36 rack.

The Z3 rack (which I believe is 2.7 TLTL) will cost you more and may be quicker than you really want. Some who have done it say it makes the car "twitchy".

[MattBimmer]

I was at the E30 meet too. I was the white 318is pissin ATF all over the ground lol. I would like to do the Z3. Just sheer because of cost. I found a remanufactured one for 170 shipped to my door. My biggest concern is it leaking. I am replacing it just because I don't want another busted rack in my car.

[Herr Faust Schinken]

Ether is a very good upgrade from the stock e30 4 turn rack

[jeffnhiscars]

I was at the E30 meet too. I was the white 318is pissin ATF all over the ground lol. I would like to do the Z3. Just sheer because of cost. I found a remanufactured one for 170 shipped to my door. My biggest concern is it leaking. I am replacing it just because I don't want another busted rack in my car.

I did not make the connection with your car. nice looking ride if I didnt say it yesterday.

I'm not sure where you are getting your rack from but rackdoctor.net quotes $129 for an e36 rack and I think $30 for shipping so its pretty much up to you. You usually have to pay a core charge for a reman so check to see if they will give you anything back for your e30 rack so you know your bottom line.

IIRC you have an airbag car with an inactive airbag. If thats true, your steering knuckle will work as is but you will have to open up the hole where your column goes through the firewall. I think its 1/2-3/4" at about 4 oclock (looking from the front). You will also have to shim the rack where it slips between the tabs on the subframe. Washers will work and just put them where it lines your tierods up as close to the angle of the control arms as possible with the car on the ground to avoid bump steer (so above, below or divided top or bottom).

GL and good to meet you yesterday :)

[MattBimmer]

Yeah man you too. And that's the one thing I am worried about with the swap is the steering knuckle the DIY made it seem it was realitively simple, just washer the new knuckle and make sure it is free turning with no lock up. Thanks for the Rackdoctor I will have to look into that.

[MattBimmer]

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=25335414534. This is what I am looking at and I am a little confused on how the core charge works. Will this be 179 THEN a 45 refund if I send my old busted rack back in? This company also sends a free return shipping label.

[jeffnhiscars]

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=25335414534. This is what I am looking at and I am a little confused on how the core charge works. Will this be 179 THEN a 45 refund if I send my old busted rack back in? This company also sends a free return shipping label.

There are a couple of red flags there...not to say thats not the right deal for you...but while their application guide does say Z3 it also says e36 so without actually giving you rack specs it's kind of hard to tell just which rack you are getting. We do know that the e36 rack is different than the Z3 rack so which is it ?

The other detail to be mindful of, is that the rack you are looking at does include the inner tierod as does rackdoctor. The thing is that between an e30 & e36 tie rod you must have the inner and outer that match. Either assembly will work on an e36 rack in an e30 but I have no clue what a Z3 inner tierod looks like. Now if you have fresh tierods already, then just reuse your exiting ones and put the new inners for sale.

Confirm that the boots are also included since they will run you $5-10\side.

If I had known you were considering this you could have taken mine for a spin to see how it felt.

As for the knuckle, again, assuming you have an airbag spec car, you can reuse your existing knuckle without modification. Its your firewall opening you will have to enlarge a bit.

Oh...and the core charge is basically an upfront deposit that they refund to you when they receive your old rack back and confirm that it is rebuildable. If not or if they wont accept your different rack, the core charge becomes part of your cost.Typically the core charge is above the cost they quote. I got this one at PullAPart for $55. It was the best of the 3 they had their and at that price its good for a core charge if I decide to go reman.

In the end heres your math....rack price + core charge plus inbound shipping = cost to your door. If you send your core back its outbound shipping (if applicable) minus the core charge refund. Then factor in the tie rods and boots (if applicable) and thats the comparison among your options.

[MattBimmer]

Okay well I don't know if this matters be the tierods ends I have on my E30 right now are less that 3 months old. I just recently did control arms tie rods etc. And I also have some pretty bad bumpsteer ar the moment.... when I ride in gravel especially it feels the steering column is just going ape shit in the firewall. Just jigglin a lot... this has reduced a ton since the new suspension last Friday lol.

[jeffnhiscars]

Yes, that matters. It means that you dont care what inner tie rods they give you since they are going to be "for sale" anyway and you may as well reuse your new boots. It also means that assuming the racks are the exact same length, you might get away without an alignment by just moving your tie rods over as is. Remember to remove the tie rod assemblies BEFORE you unbolt the old rack & to re-install them in the new rack after it's bolted in. That way your subframe acts as a vice...unless you are like me and you actually enjoy standing on a f*%$#g rack trying to undo an inner tie rod with a pipe wrench:(

As for bump steer I assume your car is lowered. What happened when I did the rack swap on my lowered 318i (M10) is that I had to put the rack spacers on top of the rack since they would go underneath it. It turns out that cured my bump steer, which I didnt even know I had til I saw how much better it was after the rack swap :)

...and buy 8 new crush washers for your banjo's

note..are you sure its bump steer and not a worn out rack ? Bump steer usually presents itself when you are going around a curve at speed with the wheel off centre AND THEN you hit a bump.

[MattBimmer]

Its not necessarily bump steer then, Its almost like the column is bouncing around and hitting the firewall where it goes thru. That one on ebay says 92-99 3 series and fits Z3. That would be able to keeo it from being figidity. When I buy which ever I decide on you and maybe some other guys from that meet could come down and we could eat and hangout etc.

[jeffnhiscars]

Its not necessarily bump steer then, Its almost like the column is bouncing around and hitting the firewall where it goes thru. That one on ebay says 92-99 3 series and fits Z3. That would be able to keeo it from being figidity. When I buy which ever I decide on you and maybe some other guys from that meet could come down and we could eat and hangout etc.

That doesnt sound like the rack. Could be a bearing (#10 or 11) but is could very well be your knuckle. I'd check closely although I realize your rack is leaking so needs to be swapped anyway. You just dont want to get half way through that and find out its something else.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...47&hg=32&fg=30

or one of the clamps here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...27&hg=32&fg=30

Like I said before, the fact that it "fits" doesnt tell you which rack it is. They pretty much all fit. The Z3 rack that goes in the e30 (which is 2.7 TLTL) is from the Z3 1.9, not the 2.x which I dont think fits at all. None of those specs are there.

....and you mean WE could eat and hangout while we give advice and watch you swap racks :)

[MattBimmer]

Yeah, pretty much to the last part. That's my biggest deal. I don't mind doing anything to my car I am just always worried I am gonna screw something major up. I am gonna call that ebay guy to ask about the rack. I think they are selling a E36 rack 3.2 ltl not the Z3 rack just saying you could swap it in mayber?

[jeffnhiscars]

Its not necessarily bump steer then, Its almost like the column is bouncing around and hitting the firewall where it goes thru. That one on ebay says 92-99 3 series and fits Z3. That would be able to keeo it from being figidity. When I buy which ever I decide on you and maybe some other guys from that meet could come down and we could eat and hangout etc.

Yeah, pretty much to the last part. That's my biggest deal. I don't mind doing anything to my car I am just always worried I am gonna screw something major up. I am gonna call that ebay guy to ask about the rack. I think they are selling a E36 rack 3.2 ltl not the Z3 rack just saying you could swap it in mayber?

IMO the e36 rack is the sweet spot in terms of value and results and if you do decide to go that way you have a range of options as to where you get it from. I prefer vendors who are completely transparent about who they are and what their products are but thats your call.

We deal with & read about springs and dampers so often they tend to be less mysterious so we are not opposed to try out a change. In reality the rack swap is quite simple and there are not many variables that you will have to stress over let alone any you can "screw up".

When you are ready there are a few little tricks that will make it easy.

...and I think you will really like the 3.2 rack relative to the 4.0 you have now. This from someone who has had a DD with a 2.0 rack (see pic).