Originally posted by EDirtyZ
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No you don't want to just pray.... I must be a glutton for punishment for sticking my head back in here.....
ANY minute variation in angle at the base exponentially affects camber.
Any proper welding at the base of the strut should be done on an appropriate jig (one that would not only be made to the correct strut angle, but also to limit any change of angle that would potentially take place due to the welding itself [ESPECIALLY if you're not welding ALL the way around the tube]). As a minor aside, I'm not sure, but it appears that the megan and bc tubes are stainless steel, which is of course not ideal to weld to the mild-steel base in the first place (especially considering how critical this weld is and how much shock it will endure).
On top of that, if the welding is not done around the entire base then over time (depending on usage) the degree of angle will change anyway ( I've seen this happen on a number of cars with this style setup ). The only way to counteract this is to weld reinforcement plates on either side of the strut-tube (while on the jig of course). The best visual example of this is to look at the over-size strut tubes used on IE's stg. 3 race c/o setup on the 2002 ( http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002...cecoilovr.html ).
Obviously this is all a pretty involved process to do correctly and I'd think you'd be charged accordingly by any decent welder ( for you style guys, think of it like a paint job - the paint is only as good as how much prepwork went into it). Could you skip much of this and still have a low car that rides ok on the street? Sure, but it still wouldn't mean it's done correctly (just like a Maaco paint-job). This is one of the many reasons why I'd still consider an IE, GC, or RE weld-on ring style kit over anything like the Megan/BC setup.
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