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    Minimizing Oversteer

    I took my S52 powered E30 to the track yesterday and found that it's tail happy. The rear wanted to come around in the corners a bit too much.

    I'm running Koni Yellows with IE3 springs and stock swaybars.

    What can I do to minimize the oversteer?
    1989 US E30 Cammed S52
    Under Construction: 1983 Euro E28 Cammed LQ9/LS3 Heads/Jakeb E28 LSx Kit


    #2
    More front sway is the first thing.

    Where is the tail coming out? Is it coming out under power, or through loading? Oversteer under braking or mid corner is very different from oversteer at corner exit when your right foot is planted.
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
    2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
    1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
    1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
    - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
    1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
    1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

    Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
    Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

    sigpic

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      #3
      Get a set of Bimmerworld 22/19mm sways for starters. More rear camber (3-3.5deg) will help a lot as will setting zero to 1/16" total rear toe. To get that you will have to install adjustable camber & toe plates. That much rear camber works great on a pure track car, but eats tires on a daily driver. Increasing the rear track width with spacers will help also. Be careful with the rebound adjustment on the shocks. You want just enough rebound damping to prevent wheel oscillation on rough surfaces. Too much rebound damping will increase oversteer on corner exit.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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        #4
        Originally posted by nrubenstein View Post
        More front sway is the first thing.

        Where is the tail coming out? Is it coming out under power, or through loading? Oversteer under braking or mid corner is very different from oversteer at corner exit when your right foot is planted.
        It's coming out under power.
        1989 US E30 Cammed S52
        Under Construction: 1983 Euro E28 Cammed LQ9/LS3 Heads/Jakeb E28 LSx Kit

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ACHTUNG View Post
          It's coming out under power.
          time to adjust your sways. big front and small(or no) little. It's a balancing act with what you actually want the car to handle like, but with enough front bar and no rear, you're probably going to be lifting the inner front wheel and rocketing out of corners.
          '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
          NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
          Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by ACHTUNG View Post
            It's coming out under power.
            How much rear tire?

            You definitely want a bigger front sway. You should also be looking at your rear alignment. Have you checked where your rear is actually sitting? Jim's advice is very good on that front. Also, I've noticed E30s going toe out over time, which really screws up the handling.
            2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
            2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
            1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
            1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
            - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
            1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
            1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

            Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
            Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

            sigpic

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Jaxx_ View Post
              time to adjust your sways. big front and small(or no) little. It's a balancing act with what you actually want the car to handle like, but with enough front bar and no rear, you're probably going to be lifting the inner front wheel and rocketing out of corners.
              The problem with trying to cure oversteer on corner exit with a big front bar and a small (or no) rear bar is that the car will understeer like crazy on corner entry. And to make matters worse the chassis will twist, even with a full cage in the car. The handling needs to be balanced between under steer and oversteer.

              With the power available in this car some oversteer is just going to be a fact of life and that can be managed with throttle control. But getting everything else right comes first.

              I didn't mention it, but the car needs to be put on a set a scales and the corner weights obtained. Fiddling with spring pads and addition/placement of ballast can be used to get the cross weights and front to rear balance better, which will help.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                The problem with trying to cure oversteer on corner exit with a big front bar and a small (or no) rear bar is that the car will understeer like crazy on corner entry. And to make matters worse the chassis will twist, even with a full cage in the car. The handling needs to be balanced between under steer and oversteer.

                With the power available in this car some oversteer is just going to be a fact of life and that can be managed with throttle control. But getting everything else right comes first.

                I didn't mention it, but the car needs to be put on a set a scales and the corner weights obtained. Fiddling with spring pads and addition/placement of ballast can be used to get the cross weights and front to rear balance better, which will help.
                Well, you can solve a lot of the understeer on corner entry with trail braking - the other nice thing about a really stiff front end is that it lets you get through high speed transitions a LOT better. If you want a frightening example of this, the BMW Motorsport WTCC E46 front sway bar was 40mm.

                Frankly, the thing that was particularly interesting to me running my 330is on track was just how incredibly sluggish the steering response was. Most of that came down to the soft 375lbs. front springs and 22mm front bar. You turn in and have to wait for the car to lean over. And wait. And wait some more. No doubt the extra weight of the S50 really hurt that too.

                I would also suggest looking at the differential. I have a Z3 torsen in the car and it's annoying in a lot of ways, but it is MUCH smoother than any of the clutched diffs. I had no oversteer issues at all.
                2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
                2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
                1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
                1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
                - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
                1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
                1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

                Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
                Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

                sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  I was running brand new 225/45/15 Hankook RS-3 tires (which I thought did surprisingly well!)

                  I think I'll try a bigger front sway with the stock rear sway and see what that does.

                  I have a 3.07 torsen diff.

                  I also think that a lot of it was my in-experience with track driving as well. I think that I was over throttling on some of the corners. I need to get better with my throttle control. The car is so damn light and is putting down a lot of power with the S52 with Schrick cams. I just need to learn to control it better.
                  1989 US E30 Cammed S52
                  Under Construction: 1983 Euro E28 Cammed LQ9/LS3 Heads/Jakeb E28 LSx Kit

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I need to get better with my throttle control.
                    This will help, if the car is balanced otherwise. If you coax the throttle in, weight will transfer
                    more evenly, and you'll (probably) get more rear grip and less oversteer.

                    The exception would be if you have too much rear camber- it's not easy to do, but
                    if you're already very low, and the car squats more, you gain camber, and unload the
                    outside edge. And then the car oversteers.

                    Another thing to rule out- make sure your rear shocks aren't bottomed. That'll
                    give you a boatload of oversteer in a hurry.

                    I wish I had your problem...

                    heh

                    t
                    now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                      The problem with trying to cure oversteer on corner exit with a big front bar and a small (or no) rear bar is that the car will understeer like crazy on corner entry. And to make matters worse the chassis will twist, even with a full cage in the car. The handling needs to be balanced between under steer and oversteer.

                      With the power available in this car some oversteer is just going to be a fact of life and that can be managed with throttle control. But getting everything else right comes first.

                      I didn't mention it, but the car needs to be put on a set a scales and the corner weights obtained. Fiddling with spring pads and addition/placement of ballast can be used to get the cross weights and front to rear balance better, which will help.
                      I agree 100%. I prefer to have the car neutral, off throttle, mid corner. All the rest can be managed with your right foot.
                      '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                      NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                      Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Have to agree with the scales. Get em, borrow em, rent em. They are VERY indespensible, and the best part is, no matter WHAT you go to in the future, they will always be transferable from any car to any other thing you own, HELL, SCALE YOUR QUAD FOR MUD BOGGIN if you want,

                        Sometimes the best shop tools is the best thing you can get for your car!!

                        sigpic1984 318i Total conversion to a DIRT race car.
                        Check out our build on facebook @ www.facebook.com/brewstermotorsports

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