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Who runs shortened bilsteins with their coilovers?
Because i am going to me low the shocks might bottom out?
It's like going low on stock length bilsteins. I won't have any suspension travel.
As long as you don't put the collar at the lowest setting. Then you're back to square one with no travel, but this time just 2" lower.
Visualize whatever suspension you've got going on right now that has efficient shock travel. Now visualize the whole strut assembly 2" lower.
That's what you're trying to accomplish. Whatever it is.. from sectioned from your shock-insert like you're mentioning, or if you end up getting the GC Koni's.
You have to figure out the stroke and length details/measurments of whatever shock you're going to end up with and visualize internally what's going on; shock travel length/stroke.
why not get ix shocks, they are 4"shorter over stock "is" shocks.
im ordering coilovers and already got my ix shocks to replace the kyb's i used to test...
next best thing is 'rado shocks, those are 6" shorter, but require some modifications to get to work.
the meat of what im saying, ix shocks, shorter and PnP
I understand that, but I am talking about the rear shock.
By lowering the car it means they will always be more compressed vs being at stock height. Will this affect anything?
If I am not making sense, then I will stop trying because I cannot find anything in a search.
I am pretty sure I am worrying about nothing.
H&R race in the rear goes pretty darn low and it's one of the most common setups used by street/track/spece30.
GC tall RSM's are a good choice if you plan to go really low.
My rear is pretty low and I still have travel. I'm not sure how much though.
Late model > Early model in terms of rear suspension travel since it can hide the illusion of being low.
why not get ix shocks, they are 4"shorter over stock "is" shocks.
im ordering coilovers and already got my ix shocks to replace the kyb's i used to test...
next best thing is 'rado shocks, those are 6" shorter, but require some modifications to get to work.
the meat of what im saying, ix shocks, shorter and PnP
idk about that, i'll measure tomorrow...i talked to mike, white325is(e30 suspension guru) when i lowered my car to find it sitting on bumpstops, just gonna stick with that.
why not get ix shocks, they are 4"shorter over stock "is" shocks.
im ordering coilovers and already got my ix shocks to replace the kyb's i used to test...
next best thing is 'rado shocks, those are 6" shorter, but require some modifications to get to work.
the meat of what im saying, ix shocks, shorter and PnP
Not sure if you read my posts. In case you did not, I encourage you to do so before you post. I appreciate your time though.
Originally posted by ak-
H&R race in the rear goes pretty darn low and it's one of the most common setups used by street/track/spece30.
GC tall RSM's are a good choice if you plan to go really low.
My rear is pretty low and I still have travel. I'm not sure how much though.
Late model > Early model in terms of rear suspension travel since it can hide the illusion of being low.
Okay, this makes much more sense. The rsm's literally just raise up the mounting point so that the shock is extended more. Sweet. Thank you.
I do have early model rear arches, which I prefer the look of.
They are one reason why I really wanted to do meatier tires, because I had the upper hand when it came to arches.
You can have the shock shafts cut a few inches and re-thread them. Camaros and Mustangs have shorter body shocks that can be easily adapted to the e30. Another option is to retrofit bilstein sprint shocks
This is almost bottoming out Bilstein sports on an early model with 205/50/15s
You have to do the math. You'll need an adjuster that can go up enough to compensate for the amount that you're cutting off. So if you have 1.5" left on your adjuster to go up in the front, that's how much you can section without dropping the car down. With a 3" shorter insert you'll need a spacer that's 3" minus whatever you section off.
The first car I ever rode in was an e30
Originally posted by Cabriolet
Wish you the best and hope you don't remember anything after 10pm.
1992 Mauritiusblau Vert
2011 Alpinweiss 335is coupe
I have sourced a set of blown bilstein HD's, and I called bilstein today. the quote they gave me for rebuilding/revalve and shortening will put me about the same price as if I bought brand new ix billies that are not valved to the rates I want.
$75 for each front -$150
$65 for each rear - $130
$65/hr for machine time (about 2 hours) - $130
That comes to $410. Inluding shipping
The blown ones I found will put me under $500 for a full set of bilsteins that are revlaved, rebuilt, and shortened for better travel; which is about the same as new ones.
Mine will be better fit for the high spring rates I want.
I just had this exact service done on a set of ix hds, and it was $357 including shipping.
I just had this exact service done on a set of ix hds, and it was $357 including shipping.
I know, I talked to two different reps at bilstein, and both times they told me about $400. Does not make sense to me. I think I am getting the tears shortened how Nigel said thoufh, so hence extra money.
Originally posted by nando
The only real difference is the valving, so once you've had them custom built it doesnt make any difference if it started as a sport or an hd.
I was concerned with the shocks being as low as they can once I lower my car.
Front struts - Rebuilt/Revalved to 550. Then shorten the rod 2" and sand tube 2"
Rear Shocks - Rebuilt/Revalved to 700. Then shorten, or w.e bilstien said they would do.
Strut Tubes - shorten 2"
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