Who runs shortened bilsteins with their coilovers?

[nando]

You only need to shorten the rod 1" if you are taking 2" off the stand tube, at least that is how they explained it to me.

[mbonanni]

Man, they didn't say anything when I was told them 2" off the rod and 2" off the sand tube.

Did they tell you that over the phone before you sent your shocks, or right before they were going to perform the work?

I think I am going to run these instead of getting the rear shocks cut/rethreaded. Thoughts?

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=851/CA=253

[mbonanni]

So you guys said the ix hrs are 3" shorter than regular HD's?

How about I just get them matched to length with the ix HD's and revavlved?

Sounds good?

[mbonanni]

Should I get them shortened to match the length of the ix billy HD's?

[einstein57]

You should get them shortened however much you section from the strut tube. No point is shortening them 3" just to run a 1" spacer.

[mbonanni]

My problem is figuring out hoe much I want to shorten the struts.

Bilstein recommended 1" off the rod and 1" off the tube, but it doesn't seem like enough to me.

I am having a hard time deciding.

If I shorten the rod 1.5" and the tube 1.5" this is a total of three inches shorter, and I will have to section my housing 1.5" correct?

[619E30]

My problem is figuring out hoe much I want to shorten the struts.

Bilstein recommended 1" off the rod and 1" off the tube, but it doesn't seem like enough to me.

I am having a hard time deciding.

If I shorten the rod 1.5" and the tube 1.5" this is a total of three inches shorter, and I will have to section my housing 1.5" correct?

If you shorten the housing 1.5"s, you will need a 1.5" spacer.

[mbonanni]

Suspension is so confusing.

You're saying shortening the artist 3" then sectioning 1.5" from the housing, I will then still need a 1.5" spacer"

[ak-]

My problem is figuring out hoe much I want to shorten the struts.

Bilstein recommended 1" off the rod and 1" off the tube, but it doesn't seem like enough to me.

I am having a hard time deciding.

If I shorten the rod 1.5" and the tube 1.5" this is a total of three inches shorter, and I will have to section my housing 1.5" correct?

When you say rod, do you mean the piston inside the cartridge/insert?

[mbonanni]

Yes the piston/rod/silver part.

Shortening the rod 1.5" and the stand tube 1.5" will shorten the overall length by 3".

[ak-]

Yes the piston/rod/silver part.

Shortening the rod 1.5" and the stand tube 1.5" will shorten the overall length by 3".

What's a stand tube? They yellow?
When I think of rod, I'm imagining shortening the INSIDE piston of the shock not the outside exposed piece. Shortening the outside rod servers no purpose, but reducing shock travel. Think about it. You'd shorten the inside.

Shortening the inside piston 1.5, and outside 1.5, nets you 0 travel gained.
You'd be back where you started, but with a shock insert that is now 1.5" shorter.
So, you would shorten your housings 1.5 also..

Now your car is automaticall 1.5" lower than average static.
If you're using the same 6"(I believe) springs, you would probably raise it a little to get your height desired. Lower it too much on the collar and you'll be back to square one with NO travel.

[nando]

the stand tube is the yellow part, yes.

if you shorten the rod 1.5" you lose 3" of total travel (up and down). I had my ix shortened 1" on the rod and 2" on the tube. no travel issues now at all.

you can also trim the bump stop to make up the difference instead of cutting the rod all the way down, so you don't lose so much travel. that's what they reccomended to me anyway.

[E30SPDFRK]

This is one of the most confusing threads I have ever read.

If I'm understanding correctly, you got a set of regular e30 shocks and want then revalved/shortened? If you're just having the shaft shortened, have them make it an inch shorter. The way Bilsteins are set up, the shaft doesn't fully compress into the yellow part. The 1" shorter shaft will give you an inch more travel with stock length housings, but also 1" less up-travel.

If they are shortening the entire shock, have them shorten it an inch and a half, then shorten your housings an inch and a half. This will give you 1.5" more drop then stock, but the same amount of travel as far as adjuster position is concerned. You could run 1" taller springs like AK said which would put you roughly at the same height as you would have been with regular lengths, but with the extra 1.5" of travel.


I don't know why people suggest getting the rear shocks shortened, the trailing arm bottoms out before the shocks do. I still have an inch of rear shock travel at the height in my sig.

[mbonanni]

What's a stand tube? They yellow?
When I think of rod, I'm imagining shortening the INSIDE piston of the shock not the outside exposed piece. Shortening the outside rod servers no purpose, but reducing shock travel. Think about it. You'd shorten the inside.

Shortening the inside piston 1.5, and outside 1.5, nets you 0 travel gained.
You'd be back where you started, but with a shock insert that is now 1.5" shorter.
So, you would shorten your housings 1.5 also..

Now your car is automaticall 1.5" lower than average static.
If you're using the same 6"(I believe) springs, you would probably raise it a little to get your height desired. Lower it too much on the collar and you'll be back to square one with NO travel.

Bilstein tells me shorten the rod 1" and the stand tube 1" means that the overall length was shortened 2". It made sense when he told me how, but I cannot explain it, hell I do not even understand it right now. I am going off what they say.

the stand tube is the yellow part, yes.

if you shorten the rod 1.5" you lose 3" of total travel (up and down). I had my ix shortened 1" on the rod and 2" on the tube. no travel issues now at all.

you can also trim the bump stop to make up the difference instead of cutting the rod all the way down, so you don't lose so much travel. that's what they reccomended to me anyway.

Juan told me shorteneing the rod 1" and the stand tube 2" can cause the rod to lock up, do not ask me why, I do not know.

This is one of the most confusing threads I have ever read. I am sorry

If I'm understanding correctly, you got a set of regular e30 shocks and want then revalved/shortened? If you're just having the shaft shortened, have them make it an inch shorter. The way Bilsteins are set up, the shaft doesn't fully compress into the yellow part. The 1" shorter shaft will give you an inch more travel with stock length housings, but also 1" less up-travel. I am buying a set of bilstein HD's and having the sent to bilstein to get work done

If they are shortening the entire shock, have them shorten it an inch and a half, then shorten your housings an inch and a half. This will give you 1.5" more drop then stock, but the same amount of travel as far as adjuster position is concerned. You could run 1" taller springs like AK said which would put you roughly at the same height as you would have been with regular lengths, but with the extra 1.5" of travel. I understand this, but now I am considering getting the rod 3" shorter and the stand tube 3" shorter then sectioning 1" of housing and use a 2" spacer.


I don't know why people suggest getting the rear shocks shortened, the trailing arm bottoms out before the shocks do. I still have an inch of rear shock travel at the height in my sig. I am just going to be safe I guess.

Are there and downsides to shortening the strut 3", then sectioning 1.5" off the housing and using a spacer?

[E30SPDFRK]

Besides for the fact that you would need a spacer. Why not get it the same length that you plan on shortening he housings? Making it shorter and running a spacer gets you nothing extra, it's just what people do because the shocks we run are that short from the factory.

My vote is get the shaft 1" shorter then the stand tube, get the stand tube .5-1" shorter and shorten the housings to match. You'll have 1.5-2" more travel then stock but you'll still be able to raise it if the need comes.