Hi guys I have a 1990 325 I 5spd it is lowered on bilsteins I just got done over hauling all of the front suspension and now I need to do rear sub frame bushings. The only bushing I replaced in the drive train is the motor mounts. I got the solid ones from condor speed shop. I love the way it makes the car feel. Now I am about to buy the rear cradle mounts to replace all the mounts in the back. The car is a daily driver but I have a beautiful mountain drive I get to drive every day that I really push my car on. I have read what people think about stock poly and solid and they are all conflicting. I am at a loss... What do you guys think I should go with?
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Rear sub frame bushing decision help.
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The transmission mounts probably need replacement and there's a good chance that the quibo also needs to be replaced. Poly subframe, trailing arm, and differential bushings will tighten up the rear suspension at the expense of increased NVH. And poly bushings can squeak unless periodically re-lubricated.
In my opinion, fresh OE bushings are good enough for a street car. Though I do use poly (and aluminum) parts on a race or track car where the increased NVH isn't a factor.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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I run solid on my DD. honestly the NVH isn't bad as long as your rear drive components aren't shot. I'm not a fan of poly.1985 M10b18. 70maybewhpoffury. Over engineered S50b30 murica BBQ swap in progress.
Originally posted by DEV0 E30You'd chugg this butt. I know you would. Ain't gotta' lie to kick it brostantinople.
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90a poly on my iS, 95a Poly on my iX. I wouldn't go any softer, but would consider solid Subframe/diff mounts on anything other than a strictly DD car.Originally posted by priapismMy girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.Originally posted by shamesonUsually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30
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