Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30
Collapse
X
-
Has anyone installed or checked if the Z4 manual rack would clear M6x swap, is the input shaft angle/length OK compared to stock rack or z3/e36 racks? -
So I got my used rack today and was wondering if I got a bad unit. Its used from a wrecked car off of eBay with 100k miles. Spinning the rack by hand, it has a "notch" or a stop every full revolution of the steering shaft. Is that normal? I provided a picture to describe where the notch is every 360 rotation.
Leave a comment:
-
I agree it can be daily'd but I think I may try a 205 vs the 225 tires I have on currently but only when they eventually wear out. The steering is so direct now that I think I noticed that I need to replace the lower spindle bearing in the column as I feel a little play in the steering whee! that I hadn't noticed before.Leave a comment:
-
This is good to know. I was worried since others were commenting that it is hard to park and turn the wheel when the car is stationary.Leave a comment:
-
-
Would anyone who has installed this daily their car with this set up?Leave a comment:
-
I drove my car for the first time with this rack. I ended up mounting it in the rear set of subframe holes. My impression is that I like it so far for a weekend toy which my car is. I can feel more of the road surface and the ratio feels good. My car weighs 2800 pounds running 225/50/15's and has M3 control arm bushings FWIW. I just did a string alignment and will recheck that later.
I wouldn't choose it for a daily driver because I'm old.Leave a comment:
-
That's a damn good question, in the all the times I've had my subframe out, motor out, rack out, I never noticed there were extra mounting holes...
I just looked through some of my pictures and for what it's worth I don't think you could install a rack in the front mount holes without hitting the oil pan on a 24v e30 swap car.Leave a comment:
-
what do you mean by front or back mounting holes?
I just picked up my z4 rack/coupling and cut it down length today. I've got it cut in a way that I can go as short as 9-1/4" or up to about 10-1/2" while keeping enough overlap for strength. I'll fit it in the car, tack it once I know the exact length and weld it solid after.
The rack I got feels a bit loose and with the boots off it looks pretty dry. I want to remove the rack itself and clean/lubricate it then adjust the lash/preload screw to put it back in oem spec before installing it in the car.
Has anyone dug into this job for one of these yet? It looks pretty simple but the only way I can see to remove the pinion is to clamp it solid in a soft jaw'd vice and lightly tap the housing away from it with a soft face dead blow. There is no circlip or good way to use a puller and the shaft does not go through to the bottom so I suspect this is really the only way. I've seen it adjusted before using a form of torque meter to know the perfect preload but don't know what the spec should be.Leave a comment:
-
What is the consensus on using the front or back rack mounting holes?
The fronts are supposed to be for a manual rack and the rear for a power rack at least that's what I read but have no idea what's actually preferred with this rack.Leave a comment:

Leave a comment: