I see a rack parts kit on BMA's site. Looks like a bunch of seals and whatnot. Has anyone tried to rebuild their own rack? Is it possible for a DIY mechanic?
rebuild your own rack
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I would not suggest it. But if you have nothing to lose... you can try.Tenured Automotive Service Professional - Avid BMW Enthusiast
Vapor Honing & E30 ABS Pump Refurbishment Service
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I'm thinking for $50, I can't go wrong. Why wouldn't you suggest it? Just a general PITA project to do?Originally posted by JordanI would not suggest it. But if you have nothing to lose... you can try.Michael Spiegle
'01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
'99 M3 / Track Car
'87 325is bronzit / wtf car
'06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily RiderComment
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I wouldn't call that a rebuild.. I'd call that replacing the seals on an otherwise worn out rack.Comment
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Wear - where?
There is an adjustment for pinion backlash. What are the parts that wear in a rack that make it not rebuildable by the DIY type?
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The actual shafts (not sure what they are called) that the tie-rods attach to can wear on the seals. Just replacing the seals will not fix a leak due to worn metal parts.Originally posted by 1991 318isThere is an adjustment for pinion backlash. What are the parts that wear in a rack that make it not rebuildable by the DIY type?
Because the movement of these shafts is lateral not rotational even if you changed the position of the new seals, it wouldn't help.
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Rebuildable or not.
Per your explanation, you could measure the diameter of the rack in the seal area and if it showed sufficient wear to be incapable of sealing properly, the rack assembly would not be considered rebuildable. As mere mortals are not privy to what happens within the walls of the rebuilders, I have nothing but my experience to draw upon. I would suggest that they are all disassembled, cleaned, and get a new seal kit. If it goes bad, "No problem, our parts are 100% guaranteed!"
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True but I'd challange you to find a regular guy like you or I that had the equipment to measure down to the micron that you'd need to see it the seal was going to seal or not.Originally posted by 1991 318isPer your explanation, you could measure the diameter of the rack in the seal area and if it showed sufficient wear to be incapable of sealing properly, the rack assembly would not be considered rebuildable. As mere mortals are not privy to what happens within the walls of the rebuilders, I have nothing but my experience to draw upon. I would suggest that they are all disassembled, cleaned, and get a new seal kit. If it goes bad, "No problem, our parts are 100% guaranteed!"
It depends on where you buy the rack. If you are going to go through the trouble of replacing it then I'd suggest you buy a 'remanufactured' rack rather than just a "rebuilt" one.
James
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Help, someone's blowing smoke up my arse!
The distinction between rebuilt and remanufactured in the present context is semantic and specious. And that deal on the microns - 1 micron = 10-6 metre. Are you seriously telling us that Griffiths measures parts to the micron to determine if they need to be replaced?
Individual hobbyists, mechanics, and even ZF have rebuilt/remanufactured racks for a few decades. It's ZF themselves that sell the seal kits.
As you say, "If you are going to go through the trouble of replacing it". This thread and forum aren't for the type that takes it to the shop and pays an additional $75 on top of the repair for a "BMW 4-wheel alignment" toe setting. That's for folks whose eyes glaze over when a mechanic, now called a technician because he puts a plug in a diagnostic socket, starts talking about microns.
The man just wants to know if anyone has done this. I know of an E30 nut that did this with no problems. He suggests getting a good set of snap ring pliers. So, mspiegle, go for it. At least you will gain experience and maybe confidence.
Your next post: Does anyone have any tips for doing your own toe setting?
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Whatever. I was just using microns as an example of measurement. I don't know what you'd actually use I'm no engineer, but it sure as hell wouldn't be available on a tape measure so I'm not sure how you'd measure it.Originally posted by 1991 318isThe distinction between rebuilt and remanufactured in the present context is semantic and specious. And that deal on the microns - 1 micron = 10-6 metre.
Again I don't know and don't really care. What I do know is they replace all the stuff that could be worn so you end up with an essentially new rack.Originally posted by 1991 318isAre you seriously telling us that Griffiths measures parts to the micron to determine if they need to be replaced?
Just because something's available for purchase doesn't make it a good idea to buy it. Rebuild kits are also available for master and slave clutch cylinders but I'd run for the hills from any mechanic that sugested that rebuilding either of these was a good idea.Originally posted by 1991 318isIndividual hobbyists, mechanics, and even ZF have rebuilt/remanufactured racks for a few decades. It's ZF themselves that sell the seal kits.
The original poster says "I'm thinking for $50, I can't go wrong". All i was saying is that you could in fact 'go wrong'.
That's not what he asked. He asked if it was possible for the DIY type. I also know of poeple who have attempted this in the pursuit of saving some money with varying levels of success. The reality of it is that you relly need some relatively special tools to intall some of the seals. And it's pretty easy to fuck it up no matter how great of a mechanic you think you are.Originally posted by 1991 318isThe man just wants to know if anyone has done this. I know of an E30 nut that did this with no problems. He suggests getting a good set of snap ring pliers. So, mspiegle, go for it. At least you will gain experience and maybe confidence.
If he wants to do this for fun, I say go ahead, but don't expect that you are going to end up with a rack that's going to last for any long period of time.
See now you're just resorting to insults, but I guess I should expect this from R3V. But in response to your comment. I fail to see any connection between the skill involved in setting toe and rebuilding a steering rack. They are miles apart and you just make yourself look like an idiot if you think they are close.Originally posted by 1991 318isYour next post: Does anyone have any tips for doing your own toe setting?
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Oh!
That "your next post" was intended as encouragement for the original poster to continue as at present, alignment being necessary after the rebuild. I thought it was humorous and betrayed a bit of affection on my part. In him I see the part of myself that is still fascinated and curious about things and how they work.
The rest speaks for itself.
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No, you don't need any special tools at all. You need a wide selection of metric sockets to aid in removing a few seals on the steering tower.Originally posted by arsevaderThat's not what he asked. He asked if it was possible for the DIY type. I also know of poeple who have attempted this in the pursuit of saving some money with varying levels of success. The reality of it is that you relly need some relatively special tools to intall some of the seals. And it's pretty easy to fuck it up no matter how great of a mechanic you think you are.
You will need a good pair of snap ring pliers.
Remanufacturing does not guarantee quality. I got a rebuilt rack and when it was "remanufactured" the morons must have clamped the input shaft, slightly distorting the splines. This made it hell to install the rack, so I had to carefully reshape the splines myself with jewelers files.
All in all, rebuilding a rack is a time consuming task, and requires you to have an extremely clean workbench.
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Thank you for the encouragement. In response to earlier replies, I highly doubt these things are engineered down to the micron. A micron would be equivalent to 0.000039 inches which is an incredibly tight tolerance. Since the seals on the rack are designed to flex (made out of rubber, or something like it), I would expect the tolerances to be on the order of 0.01 or 0.001. In either case, my handy measuring caliper is capable of that sort of accuracy and I can use it to check 2 of my other E30s (with perfectly fine racks) and compare it to my leaking rack. If the leaking rack appears to be "within spec", then hopefully refreshing the seals will be all I need.Originally posted by 1991 318isSo, mspiegle, go for it. At least you will gain experience and maybe confidence.
I don't plan to do this for a little while, but i'll definately report back here with my findings/research/conclusion.Michael Spiegle
'01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
'99 M3 / Track Car
'87 325is bronzit / wtf car
'06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily RiderComment
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It's funny that this topic should arise as Ryan and I just had this conversation yesterday due to his leaking rack. I know of several people that have attempted this and have walked away in frustration. Both of these people are excellent mechanics. Ryan just made the decision to buy a reman rack rather than delve into this hornets nest. As a shade tree mechanic I would shy away from the project as the kits that are out there are around $200.00 dollars and a reman rack is about $250.00. My time and frustration are worth way more then the extra 50 bucks. Just my 2 cents.Just livin in the OC minus my E30Comment
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Originally posted by rward325It's funny that this topic should arise as Ryan and I just had this conversation yesterday due to his leaking rack. I know of several people that have attempted this and have walked away in frustration. Both of these people are excellent mechanics. Ryan just made the decision to buy a reman rack rather than delve into this hornets nest. As a shade tree mechanic I would shy away from the project as the kits that are out there are around $200.00 dollars and a reman rack is about $250.00. My time and frustration are worth way more then the extra 50 bucks. Just my 2 cents.
Good info. What does this "$200" kit consist of? I was just planning to get only a seal kit which i've seen for around $50.Michael Spiegle
'01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
'99 M3 / Track Car
'87 325is bronzit / wtf car
'06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily RiderComment

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