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I currently have 625/450 spring rates on my ground control setup with the IE 25mm hollow front bar. I have been more than happy with running no rear bar. With the rear bar in the car had way too much oversteer. With no rear bar the handling is much more neutral overall.
The rear bar is not the cause of your oversteer - unbalanced spring rates are.
By eliminating the rear bar, you no longer have minor adjustability in your suspension - kind of a waste after spending so much money, don't you think?
I never understood why a lot of people like to go crazy with stiffer and stiffer springs. Unless the car is strictly track driven, and the track is perfectly smooth, you are just going to get a back end that will be hopping around over any bumps. The point of sway bars is to maintain a suspension setup that can still absorb imperfections in the road surface while minimizing weight distribution from body lean around corners.
Every part of the suspension has a necessary contribution to the overall handling performance of your car. In tuning your suspension all parts from tires to bushings need to be taken into consideration. Simply changing wheel and tire sizes on my car changed it from slight understeer to more than enough oversteer. You change or adjust one thing and the geometry and effect of all other components may need some tweeking.
"And many E30 M3s were cut up for racecars, which never really made much sense--you can race a 325i much more economically and still lose to Porches just as well."
I never understood why a lot of people like to go crazy with stiffer and stiffer springs. Unless the car is strictly track driven, and the track is perfectly smooth, you are just going to get a back end that will be hopping around over any bumps. The point of sway bars is to maintain a suspension setup that can still absorb imperfections in the road surface while minimizing weight distribution from body lean around corners.
Every part of the suspension has a necessary contribution to the overall handling performance of your car. In tuning your suspension all parts from tires to bushings need to be taken into consideration. Simply changing wheel and tire sizes on my car changed it from slight understeer to more than enough oversteer. You change or adjust one thing and the geometry and effect of all other components may need some tweeking.
I used to have ST sways, and had the rear adjusted to the not-as-stiff possition. There was way too much oversteer in the stiff position.
They are nice, but here is what I don't like about them:
*Front bar is not adjustable
*Front bar uses stock endlinks
*Limited adjustability in the rear (only two settings)
I just picked up a set of IE swaybars, and am pretty satisfied with them so far. The front bar is three-way adjustable. The rear bar is infinitely adjustable. I also like the way the rear mount is beefier and mounts to the trunk floor.
I currently have the front on full stiff, while the rear bar is pretty soft. I still need to see how it handles like this, and I will adjust the rear bar accordingly.
-Erik
I just installed my ST sways the other day, well only the front so far because i ran out of time, i was doing shox/springs, CA's all that.
I snapped my stock end link mount on the control arm, so i gave it some thoguth and built a total custom set up. I used the rear sway bar end links, wich are solid by the way, and their mounting thingies for the control arm. I'm not sure what im going to use for the rear now, i was thikning of calling some retailer and ordering another set of those custom solid end links. I have to say that it rides awesome with the solid links. I bought the stock rubber replacement ones for the front but couldnt use them because they cant fit into the rear end link mounts. So... Yea there are options, you just gotta play around.
By the way to everyone on here, is this a bad idea to use sold sway links up front?
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