well, here I go

[nickmp0wer]

due to a recent problem with my cylinder head, the car is going to be down for a week or more. Rather then doing it later, i thought i might as well tend to the suspension. But, I'm debating how far i should go.

I am going to do H&R sports and shocks. Also I just took a look at the subrame bushings and they are cracked like whoa. Im also going to go to some powerflex offset TA bushings, and new tie rods. So those things are a for sure.

I was going to do the IE camber and toe correction, since my right rear is very slightly out of alignment. But i thought maybe i should just replace the trailing arm instead, since thats probably what it is. Or maybe do both? to install the IE stuff, the whole assembly would have to come out, which would be a lot more work then just droping it and replacing an arm and the bushings, but it would be sad to figure out that the alignment problem was my subframe.

IE subfame bushings best?

anyone with h&r sports have thier alignment numbers?

what Trailing arm bushings are best?

[madjurgen]

I think you will regret the H&R sports.

[nickmp0wer]

I dont want it that low, or that stiff, and i pretty much drive like a grandma since my ticket, and will probalby do about 10 track days autox's this year so i dont think its worth it to have a ultra stiff setup the rest of the time.

Im in the prosses of testing the rack, i just need to fix a leak in the air hose so i can try and test it

[1991 318is]

Bars Schmars

Why all of these suspension threads on H&R's and Bilsteins. They may be the spring shock combo du jour but the first thing I feel an E30 needs is a better front bar. Something a lot of folks get around to after they've dropped about $1000-$1500 on the suspension. A part of that to fix problems created by the other stuff. Maybe if bars wore out like the other parts that need replacement, they would also be upgraded. A Dinan adjustable M3 bar is $130. You will need to add brackets for the arms to the struts, make or buy the links, and beef up the mounts. But if you are able to install an IE rear camber kit that's a small. Along the lines of of an IE kit, you may want to consider adjusting the camber yourself.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=62020

I haven't heard of alignment problems caused by the subframe itself. And, of course, go ahead and replace or upgrade those bushings and all the other worn out stuff. Stop me before I foam at the mouth and have another "episode".

[nickmp0wer]

why not the upgrading 12mm rear bar?

[1991 318is]

The other end!

"I dont want it that low, or that stiff, and i pretty much drive like a grandma since my ticket, and will probalby do about 10 track days autox's this year so i dont think its worth it to have a ultra stiff setup the rest of the time."
That says adjustable bars. You can "tune" them for the loose/push. After a while you may want to go with stiffer. At that time you will have a better idea of what you want the car to do. Not just putting on parts because they are the "hot tip."

[nickmp0wer]

well i've already ordered the stuff. I think i will just upgrade to a m3 rear bar for now.

where are the proper places to hold the car up while the subframe is out? I've seen the pic of the fliped over e30, and it shows jackstands where the factory jack goes. Is it just supposed to sit on that lip or something?

[318isbmw]

maybe the jack mount might work for putting the jacks under since you have the subframe up, just an idea I had. We usually put the jackstand so it sits with the two lips on the top of the stand w/ one on facing the outside of the car and with it across over the bottom of the bolt that should be right there. Sorry, hard to explain. Factory location should be fine unless u wanna jump around inside and try and shake it and stuff, I've had my dad's e30 up for a week pulling the tranny and had no issues w/ the whole car on the factory location, just don't b stupid w/ the car while it's on the stands.

[nando]

I used the factory jack points for my car, just be careful when you are setting it down and they will be fine.

[nickmp0wer]

yep, i used them and they worked fine. I got some IE subframe busings and TA bushings new in box for 110. I guess i will order the camber/toe correction kit?

I may also put in a short shifter, replace a couple tranny seals, and it looks like the diff input seal might leak. Spending all this money is depressing

does the diff input shaft and the tranny output shaft have to be removed to replace the seals?

[nickmp0wer]

my toe is off by .2 degrees on one side and the camber differs by .3. Should i take this into consideratoin when welding up the IE plates?

on the side with .1 toe in i think i will weld the plate so i manily just get adjustment for less toe in. I think i will probably put the camber near the middle, with maybe a little bias towards positive adjustment.

The other one has .1 toe out so i dont know how much to compensate. I dont want to do it to little and not be able to get to the toe in number i want, or too much and not be able to get to the number either. maybe just the middle?

[arsevader]

yep, i used them and they worked fine. I got some IE subframe busings and TA bushings new in box for 110. I guess i will order the camber/toe correction kit?

I may also put in a short shifter, replace a couple tranny seals, and it looks like the diff input seal might leak. Spending all this money is depressing

does the diff input shaft and the tranny output shaft have to be removed to replace the seals?

The shafts don't have to be removed but the flanges do obviously. The diff input seal is tricky, make sure you follow the Bentley.

[NOMAD]

Where can you buy M3 Front Strut housings? If I can get these it'll be easier than welding some on. I don;t know of or trust any mechanics around here just yet.

[NC325iC]

if you can get those youre going 5 lug