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Standards for refreshing suspension

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    Standards for refreshing suspension

    If one were to replace many of the main OEM suspension wear parts, what would he be replacing, to get a factory smooth ride?

    -Control arms
    -Control arm bushings
    -Tie rods inner/outer
    -sway bar end links
    -sway bar bushings
    -springs
    -shocks


    What am I missing?

    Also, as far as the rear suspension goes, will I be okay with just doing shocks/springs?
    sigpic

    #2
    Originally posted by z6ne View Post
    What am I missing?
    Subframe bushings, diff bushing and RTABs.

    If you're after a "factory smooth ride" you also might want to look at replacing your CSB and giubo.
    Originally posted by kronus
    would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by z6ne View Post
      If one were to replace many of the main OEM suspension wear parts, what would he be replacing, to get a factory smooth ride?

      -Control arms
      -Control arm bushings
      -Tie rods inner/outer
      -sway bar end links
      -sway bar bushings
      -springs
      -shocks


      What am I missing?

      Also, as far as the rear suspension goes, will I be okay with just doing shocks/springs?

      EDIT: Slow typing version:

      Plus-
      Strut mounts/bearings

      rear trailing arm bushes
      rear subframe bushes
      diff mount bush
      rear shock mounts


      This assumes your wheel bearings are good
      Lorin


      Originally posted by slammin.e28
      The M30 is God's engine.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by LJ851 View Post
        Strut mounts/bearings
        rear shock mounts
        Hopefully no one is replacing their shocks/struts without these being part of the job...
        Originally posted by kronus
        would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by agent View Post
          Hopefully no one is replacing their shocks/struts without these being part of the job...


          It's the internet, i don't even assume everyone is human here.
          Lorin


          Originally posted by slammin.e28
          The M30 is God's engine.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by LJ851 View Post
            It's the internet, i don't even assume everyone is human here.
            wisdom.


            thanks fellas. Starting to make a list and get prices together.
            sigpic

            Comment


              #7
              You can just replace the ball joints in the control arms instead of the whole thing, and use m3 control arm bushings.
              Shawn @ Bimmerbuddies
              Bimmerbuddies LLC
              717-388-1256
              2971a Roundtop Rd, Middletown PA 17057
              bimmerbuddiesllc@gmail.com

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by SmokeE30 View Post
                You can just replace the ball joints in the control arms instead of the whole thing, and use m3 control arm bushings.
                at a machine shop I assume? How much does this cost?
                sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by z6ne View Post
                  at a machine shop I assume? How much does this cost?
                  Where I live, major city, it does not worth the hustle, unless you have a connection of some sort.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by mr ilia View Post
                    Where I live, major city, it does not worth the hustle, unless you have a connection of some sort.
                    what?

                    you mean it's cheaper to just buy a whole new arm?
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                      #11
                      cost 66 dollars new for a new a arm on bma.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by z6ne View Post
                        what?

                        you mean it's cheaper to just buy a whole new arm?
                        An OEM arm will cost like 100$ where as some mooge ball joints will run you around 30. Just need a friend with a shop to press them in for you, so add the cost of a 6 pack to that.
                        Shawn @ Bimmerbuddies
                        Bimmerbuddies LLC
                        717-388-1256
                        2971a Roundtop Rd, Middletown PA 17057
                        bimmerbuddiesllc@gmail.com

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by LJ851 View Post
                          EDIT: Slow typing version:

                          Plus-
                          Strut mounts/bearings

                          rear trailing arm bushes
                          rear subframe bushes
                          diff mount bush
                          rear shock mounts
                          This assumes your wheel bearings are good
                          Oh note though, if you're strapped for time or money, and your car has under 200K, you're probably fine to leave the Subframe bushings alone for now. Same goes for the rear diff, unless there is obvious cracking in the rubber. Both of those are in the little benefit for pita work category of parts.

                          Everything else mentioned should be done at the same time as the shocks, as they are highly related pieces, are easy to do at the same time, and provide good benefit.
                          -------------------------------------------------
                          1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
                          2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

                          sigpic

                          I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Earendil View Post
                            Oh note though, if you're strapped for time or money, and your car has under 200K, you're probably fine to leave the Subframe bushings alone for now. Same goes for the rear diff, unless there is obvious cracking in the rubber. Both of those are in the little benefit for pita work category of parts.
                            That depends entirely on what shape they're in. They are likely okay but if they are shot it can cause all sorts of fun issues.
                            paint sucks

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Wh33lhop View Post
                              That depends entirely on what shape they're in. They are likely okay but if they are shot it can cause all sorts of fun issues.
                              True. My suggestion was only to leave those out if something needed to be left out. Failed rear shock mounts can cause interesting problems too ;)
                              -------------------------------------------------
                              1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
                              2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

                              sigpic

                              I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

                              Comment

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