Standards for refreshing suspension

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  • SkiFree
    replied
    shop manual covers CV joint inspection and repacking .... I don't understand people are not using this as the first go-to for repairs.

    A quick google search will also yield plenty of information.

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  • z6ne
    replied
    thanks guys.

    I just bought a new e30, and PO says that a CV axle is bad. Anyone have a DIY thread on how to repair this, and an estimate of the cost? Should I go ahead and replace both if I'm doing one?

    Leave a comment:


  • Earendil
    replied
    Originally posted by Wh33lhop
    That depends entirely on what shape they're in. They are likely okay but if they are shot it can cause all sorts of fun issues.
    True. My suggestion was only to leave those out if something needed to be left out. Failed rear shock mounts can cause interesting problems too ;)

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  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    Originally posted by Earendil
    Oh note though, if you're strapped for time or money, and your car has under 200K, you're probably fine to leave the Subframe bushings alone for now. Same goes for the rear diff, unless there is obvious cracking in the rubber. Both of those are in the little benefit for pita work category of parts.
    That depends entirely on what shape they're in. They are likely okay but if they are shot it can cause all sorts of fun issues.

    Leave a comment:


  • Earendil
    replied
    Originally posted by LJ851
    EDIT: Slow typing version:

    Plus-
    Strut mounts/bearings

    rear trailing arm bushes
    rear subframe bushes
    diff mount bush
    rear shock mounts
    This assumes your wheel bearings are good
    Oh note though, if you're strapped for time or money, and your car has under 200K, you're probably fine to leave the Subframe bushings alone for now. Same goes for the rear diff, unless there is obvious cracking in the rubber. Both of those are in the little benefit for pita work category of parts.

    Everything else mentioned should be done at the same time as the shocks, as they are highly related pieces, are easy to do at the same time, and provide good benefit.

    Leave a comment:


  • SmokeE30
    replied
    Originally posted by z6ne
    what?

    you mean it's cheaper to just buy a whole new arm?
    An OEM arm will cost like 100$ where as some mooge ball joints will run you around 30. Just need a friend with a shop to press them in for you, so add the cost of a 6 pack to that.

    Leave a comment:


  • efficient
    replied
    cost 66 dollars new for a new a arm on bma.

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  • z6ne
    replied
    Originally posted by mr ilia
    Where I live, major city, it does not worth the hustle, unless you have a connection of some sort.
    what?

    you mean it's cheaper to just buy a whole new arm?

    Leave a comment:


  • mr ilia
    replied
    Originally posted by z6ne
    at a machine shop I assume? How much does this cost?
    Where I live, major city, it does not worth the hustle, unless you have a connection of some sort.

    Leave a comment:


  • z6ne
    replied
    Originally posted by SmokeE30
    You can just replace the ball joints in the control arms instead of the whole thing, and use m3 control arm bushings.
    at a machine shop I assume? How much does this cost?

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  • SmokeE30
    replied
    You can just replace the ball joints in the control arms instead of the whole thing, and use m3 control arm bushings.

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  • z6ne
    replied
    Originally posted by LJ851
    It's the internet, i don't even assume everyone is human here.
    wisdom.


    thanks fellas. Starting to make a list and get prices together.

    Leave a comment:


  • LJ851
    replied
    Originally posted by agent
    Hopefully no one is replacing their shocks/struts without these being part of the job...


    It's the internet, i don't even assume everyone is human here.

    Leave a comment:


  • agent
    replied
    Originally posted by LJ851
    Strut mounts/bearings
    rear shock mounts
    Hopefully no one is replacing their shocks/struts without these being part of the job...

    Leave a comment:


  • LJ851
    replied
    Originally posted by z6ne
    If one were to replace many of the main OEM suspension wear parts, what would he be replacing, to get a factory smooth ride?

    -Control arms
    -Control arm bushings
    -Tie rods inner/outer
    -sway bar end links
    -sway bar bushings
    -springs
    -shocks


    What am I missing?

    Also, as far as the rear suspension goes, will I be okay with just doing shocks/springs?

    EDIT: Slow typing version:

    Plus-
    Strut mounts/bearings

    rear trailing arm bushes
    rear subframe bushes
    diff mount bush
    rear shock mounts


    This assumes your wheel bearings are good

    Leave a comment:

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