Bad Steering Rack?

[cm0180]

Hi all

I put in an e36 rack recently, and I've had some weird symptoms. When I make a sharp right, it sounds like something is rubbing on the driver's side, like the dust shield somehow. The driver's side wheel has some play, but it's actually turning the steering joint. However, the passenger side wheel doesn't move with it. The passenger side wheel doesn't have the same play.

The inner and outer tie rods were replaced when the rack was put in.

Does this sound like the rack? The wheel bearing? The tie rods? I'm not sure what to replace.

[jeffnhiscars]

The outer all joint can easily touch the dust shield. Just bend it closer to the rotor

[cm0180]

It sounds like it's rubbing on the rotor, not the ball joint. It only happens when I take a corner somewhat fast, which is what has me concerned.

[Dofo]

Were you ever able to diagnose this?
Seems like i am having the same problem. I make a sharp left turn and i feel like something is rubbing and it rather slows my speed down just a bit. Idk if its worth mentioning but my steeing rack boot on the right hand side is torn and exposed. Any help guys? :)

[Andy.B]

You should definitely replace your torn boot, and replace the joint if there is any play on the inner joint.

There is not much clearance between the backing plate and the rotor on cars. There is even less clearance as the edges of the rotor surface build up a coat of surface rust.
There is also a little bit of deflection and play in the hub/wheel bearing.
As a result, it does not take much to tweak the backing plate JUST enough to cause it to contact the rotor under load from turning.
I would deal with this frequently on all makes and models of cars making noise after service when I was a mechanic. The solution is to gently bend the backing plate away from the rotor to keep it from contacting. It usually takes a little trial and error as you will push the bottom away from the rotor, and the plate will flex, causing the top to start contacting, or vice versa. Basically, you just gently tweak it until you find the sweet spot.

*All this is based on the assumption that the wheel bearing is in good condition, the ball joint and tie rod do not have any play, and the brakes/backing plate are all in good shape.

[Dofo]

You should definitely replace your torn boot, and replace the joint if there is any play on the inner joint.

There is not much clearance between the backing plate and the rotor on cars. There is even less clearance as the edges of the rotor surface build up a coat of surface rust.
There is also a little bit of deflection and play in the hub/wheel bearing.
As a result, it does not take much to tweak the backing plate JUST enough to cause it to contact the rotor under load from turning.
I would deal with this frequently on all makes and models of cars making noise after service when I was a mechanic. The solution is to gently bend the backing plate away from the rotor to keep it from contacting. It usually takes a little trial and error as you will push the bottom away from the rotor, and the plate will flex, causing the top to start contacting, or vice versa. Basically, you just gently tweak it until you find the sweet spot.

*All this is based on the assumption that the wheel bearing is in good condition, the ball joint and tie rod do not have any play, and the brakes/backing plate are all in good shape.

okay ty kind sir, i will def check on this pronto!