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Post Z3-Rack Install Problems ::: FIXED!

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    Post Z3-Rack Install Problems ::: FIXED!

    UPDATE + SOLUTION ON POST #18




    I love my new Z3 Rack. Its amazing, steering radius is decreased (Meaning, your rack travels further and thus you have tighter steering; U-turns and u-turn clutch dumps/whips are easy as 1-2-3), and steering response is immense. I love it!......

    Except for the fact I need an alignment BAD, I have a decent-to-huge amount of bump-steer, and my auto-return on my steering isn't returning my steering wheel to center after a turn (If I turn to full lock going 2mph, it stays stuck in full lock). My steering also has a flat spot taking any kind of tighter turn.


    I have ruled out to the following factors:
    1st: Alignment
    My wheels are off bad. This will be the first thing I do at a hopefully reputable shop. I would normally just go to Ryan GMW, but they are 20 miles+ and require freeway travel; both of which are unsafe to do so as the car sits. The car does not "re-center" the wheel after a turn, meaning I have to manual turn the wheel back; however, when reversing, the auto-leveling steering works.

    2nd: Binding
    Possible binding of my knuckle is causing a flat spot. There is no audible metal grinding or sounds from the steering system while turning, just the hum of the power-steering pump under heavy load (full lock). I did not inspect the linkage knuckle while steering with the car on the lift to check for binding. (It was late and my buddy needed to leave and my e30 was the only car there). I probably should have, but I will have free time next week to work it out.

    3rd: Bleeding
    My fluid is brown in the reservoir. It was regular Red ATF before the swap, and my power-steering was working perfectly fine, but now it does not seem to return my wheel back to center after a turn. Maybe a kink in pressure lines causing uneven pressure (there is stuttering from the power-steering pump like its struggling to push fluid at a certain point in the turn, but not all the time.). Could this be a possible cause of my flat spot or lack of auto-correction as well? I will be checking my hoses as well as my knuckle when I have it up on the lift.




    As of now, Car is rendered unsafe and inoperable, so I'd like to get all these sorted out ASAP. I was scared with all the bump-steer/twitchy memory-steer from just traveling 30MPH.
    Last edited by JinormusJ; 09-03-2013, 12:30 AM.

    #2
    I have definitely heard of a kink causing stuttering before, so I'd for sure be checking for that one.
    '87 325is - Schwarz/Schwarz

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      #3
      Added a few more finds on OP

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        #4
        I was under the impression that Z3 racks do not return to center as they are linear.

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          #5
          Sounds like it is binding.

          A properly executed z3 or z4 or e46m rack swap will function just like the original rack did.

          Tow car to alignment and shop familiar with this kind of swap.

          Steering racks automatically center when the car is traveling straight; if you intentionally initiate into a drift with a balanced car one can let go of the steering wheel and continue the drift with wheel free spinning; settle the back end when you want to stop drifting and throttle when there is enough weight to hook up; the steering wheel will auto center as you drive out of the corner

          Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
          OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

          Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



          Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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            #6
            Most of the auto centering comes from caster built into the front suspension. Think of a caster wheel on a shopping cart turning back straight when pushed forward. Same thing on a car.

            A bad alignment will definitely cause what you are describing. Yes, you can't adjust caster directly on and e30, but toe will have an effect on caster and camber. Roughly align it the best you can with a tape measure then drive it to get it aligned.

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              #7
              Post Z3-Rack Install Problems

              Well, the front definitely needs an alignment bad; with the steering wheel centered, the left wheel will track straight while the right wheel is toed in

              Just think of it resembling this from above:
              |----\

              I have no doubt that a lot if not most of my auto-correct and memory steer issues are coming from an improper alignment; I did not align the the tie rods after installing the rack (although, I tried my best when I replaced the drivers side rod). This shows, as the passenger side tie rod is still on "Z3 Toe-Spec" while the other one is eye-ball aligned if that makes sense. Right wheel is toed in about 10*

              Due to the nature of physics, a balanced system will return to lock regardless of the ratio or nature of how the gears are set (linear vs progressive) as the force behind the front wheels (the entire car), will shift the wheels the direction the force is traveling (ei, if you turn and let go of the wheel, the force of the car is no longer in a turn, and is traveling straight, and thus will center the wheels. In an unbalanced system, the force of the wheels in a turn can be greater than the force of the shell, thus the rack will not center.

              I can hear tire screech from the wheels going straight as slow as 10mph. Also, my left wheel is wearing in little quarter side patches near the outside of the wheel

              My power steering studdering has seemed to go away for the most part; I uncapped the reservoir, and spun the wheel lock to lock to bleed the system, during which I found out the rack was off-center when installed; my left lock was 1.1 turns, and my right lock was 1.6 turns. I ended up just taking the wheel off and adjusting, moving it a spline closer to the left, until I was a perfect 1.35 from center-to-lock.

              I also think I have binding causing a flat spot (or better described as a stiff spot) in my power steering as off the car, the rack spun freely; once back on the lift, I will spin the wheel to check for any binding spots on my knuckle, as I expecting some in theory


              So glad that these issues are at least easily diagnosable.
              Last edited by JinormusJ; 08-30-2013, 01:00 PM.

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                #8
                Stop driving the car immediately. Fix your damn toe until both wheels look reasonable, then get an alignment. Do that FIRST and that will likely alleviate a lot of your problems. Then worry about binding.
                Last edited by Wh33lhop; 08-30-2013, 03:58 PM.
                paint sucks

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by JCarp90 View Post
                  I was under the impression that Z3 racks do not return to center as they are linear.
                  They are linear, so it won't truely return to center.

                  Sent from my SGH-T769
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                    #10
                    Post Z3-Rack Install Problems

                    Originally posted by djmossm42 View Post
                    They are linear, so it won't truely return to center.
                    Neither do Progressive racks

                    Let go of your wheel after a turn and see if you don't have to put some input to center it. All racks will require a certain amount of user-centering at low speed. If anything, a normal e30 or e36 progressive rack will require MORE user-centering than a linear rack because the center on a progressive is much more numb to road input than a linear rack is.


                    Originally posted by Wh33lhop View Post
                    Stop driving the car immediately
                    I thought this was a given; I haven't driven the car since parking it last night immediately after my rack swap, nor will I until I fix the toe and get an alignment. I previously stated the car was unsafe and inoperable in its current state. Wouldn't make much sense to drive it if I already know that much

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                      #11
                      How bad is the bump steer?

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by mulletman View Post
                        How bad is the bump steer?
                        enough to toss my wheel half a turn on uneven gravel roads; on a straight road it wasn't too bad, maybe 1/8 turn, but this is all speculation until I get my alignment dialed in and further tackle my memory steer and auto-correction issues.

                        FWIW, I drove a friends Z3 rack'd e30 and there was little to no bump steer, just more road input from the linear rack. I think he mounted his spacers beneath the rack though, not above it

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by JinormusJ View Post
                          I thought this was a given; I haven't driven the car since parking it last night immediately after my rack swap, nor will I until I fix the toe and get an alignment. I previously stated the car was unsafe and inoperable in its current state. Wouldn't make much sense to drive it if I already know that much
                          Fair enough. I only read the last post and the thread title.

                          I think crazy toe will exaggerate your perceived bump steer, as well, if that makes sense.
                          paint sucks

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                            #14
                            That's why I'm not worried about the bump-steer aspect as my swap isn't even drivable and shouldn't be compared to a running, driving car.

                            The toe is causing memory steer, which is very hard to differentiate between bump steer. Until I get an alignment, I can't give any definitive results about how it drives

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                              #15
                              Interesting. I want to do a rack swap... But I can't decide between Z3 and non-powered Z4.

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