GC and Camber plate settings

[Dave]

Ditto on the rears, I'm halfway threw the coilover conversion in my car, and have just the rears in, with the stiffer springs back there, and soft up front the rear end likes to swing around way to easy(cuaght me off guard the first time). Since I got my mom's E38 finished I'll be installing my fronts finally tommorow. Just how bad are your rates for the street? I have 350/450 but have been thinking of going 450/550

You feel every crack in the road, every pebble, every single little imperfection. I really don't mind it - but if it was an every day thing, it would get old really fast.

My wife's van is going to end up going in to the shop for some light body work in the next few weeks (her lesson learned - dont try to turn right from the center lane!), and so she'll drive the Lexus and I'll drive the e30. I'll know then just how unbearable it is. Good thing my commute is just over a mile.

It may be that I am just not accustomed to the ride. I found the H&R Race springs to be decent for street use - these are stiffer, but not that much. Of course, I also added urethane bushings and Treehouse CABs into the mix so that has to be part of the harshness of it now.

[rs4pro3]

ya the H&R races are 315 front and either 570 or 680 in the rear.
I'm so tempted to skip my afternoon classes today so I can get home and get mine installed. I don't mind a super stiff ride on the street, heck I've got the mazda to daily drive but it's just not as much fun as the e30.

Also I assume you are running koni adjustables?

[Dave]

yes - konis

[rs4pro3]

I figured so with those rates.

[dirty30]

I'm curiose how accurant the markings are on the GC plates. I''ve got a pair of Ireland race plates to go onto my car tommorow, and purchased a camber guage, as I know the camber angles change for the different ride heights so I don't see how the GC marks can be accurate.

Not at all accurate, plus I had to cut my shock towers out to clear the bolts. They go together quite nicely though and are basicaly indestructable.

Currently at -2.5 camber L&R
8.5ish caster
0 toe L&R

-Ryan

[rs4pro3]

good info.

[e9nine]

Not at all accurate, plus I had to cut my shock towers out to clear the bolts. They go together quite nicely though and are basicaly indestructable.

Currently at -2.5 camber L&R
8.5ish caster
0 toe L&R

-Ryan

Not GCs fault as your car's chassis will obviously show some changes after all these years and abuse :drink:

[Dave]

Saturday, I had left the rear adjusters up fairly high - it was oversteering some, but it was manageable. I dropped them two full turns Saturday night when I was bleeding the brakes. Sunday - it was much better - and I was much faster (except in the first session which was after a light rain - different story).

I had the front camber set at -3 when I got the alignment done. No complaints there.

[2002maniac]

I put my motor-force camber plates last weekend. When I went to get it aligned the least amount of camber he could set it at was -3.8

with the plates adjusted all the way in it was -5.5

seem wierd?

[rs4pro3]

My guese is you have the bearing housing installed wrong

On the IE plates I have you install the lower bearing housing that bolts onto the strut insert one way for more negative, and then rotate it around for more positive camber.

[dirty30]

Not GCs fault as your car's chassis will obviously show some changes after all these years and abuse :drink:

The thought had crossed my mind that yeah, maybe its my tired (230K) chassis, but then the least amount of neg. camber I can dial in is 2.5? Left me scratching my head for a while.

[Skafrog]

Your camber need to be adjusted for tire temps and also wear, not what you read on the internet. Get out there, and then see what you need to adjust it to.
Oh, and get your car corner-balanced. That's why you get coil-overs.

[rwh11385]

Your camber need to be adjusted for tire temps and also wear, not what you read on the internet. Get out there, and then see what you need to adjust it to.
Oh, and get your car corner-balanced. That's why you get coil-overs.

nah

ground-controls are to be FUH RAZE

[Dave]

Your camber need to be adjusted for tire temps and also wear, not what you read on the internet. Get out there, and then see what you need to adjust it to.
Oh, and get your car corner-balanced. That's why you get coil-overs.

My CCA Chapter is doing a corner balancing day soon - I have planned that all along. Duh. Not everyone has easy access to the equipment for that, Rob, so I was looking for a fairly sane setup for the time being. Thanks for the input.

[Skafrog]

Actually, you do. Got any CAT scales around your area? Sure you do, they are at almost every truck stop.