Getting the rear springs out

[thatphysicsguy]

Ok so I've heard and read conflicting things plus the bentley is kinda vague as usual.

Is lowering the diff super necessary? or is it just a precaution against messing the CV joints up? The bentley just says to undo the one mounting bolt, but the diff is still attached to the subframe at that point...

So far I've disconnected the shock and the anti-roll bar but the springs still wont budge.

What do you guys usually do?

[efficient]

just disconnect the shock bolt 19mm and with some weight on the rear trailing arms, the spring will be able to come out by spinning the spring at an angle.

[thatphysicsguy]

So I gotta like stand on those things?
Are they like threaded into the spring pads? they wont budge...

[efficient]

yeah or use a small jack in between the arm and the body, but usually stepping on the arm has worked for me.

the spring isn't threaded, it just easier to wiggle out around the big dimple on the body.

[Mr. Tasty]

unbolt the sway bar links, also. This will allow the trailing arms to drop lower.

[efficient]

unbolt the sway bar links, also. This will allow the trailing arms to drop lower.

forgot this. just unloosen the 13mm nuts on sway end links

[thatphysicsguy]

Did all that when I started trying yesterday, and arms are super close to full droop but those bastards are still in there TIGHT. It seems almost like the bottom pad is wedging the spring to the control arm.

Even used some spring compressors just now and that shit just would not come off. The bottom pad stayed stuck to the lower coil and prevented me from getting up and over the little nub on the control arm.

Why is this so damn hard? it's supposed to be the easiest thing ever...

[efficient]

easiest job ever. maybe jam a flathead in between the pad and spray lube wd-40 on it and pry on it.
maybe your best bet is to get a dremel and cut a coil off lol

[thatphysicsguy]

Maybe some pics might shed some light on the situation:
Here's the bottom spring pad. Notice how the middle overhangs the spring and is wedged between the spring and the nub. I think this might be my problem but I have no way of telling if it's normal or not. when i used the spring compressors, it stuck to the spring and slid up the nub but made it so I couldn't get the spring up and over


Here's the whole assembly at pretty much full droop:

[efficient]

Spin the spring counter clock wise with the spring compressor on. put some lube on the pad were the spring meets the pad

[MR 325]

Prybar.

[jeffnhiscars]

Prybar.

I use a wrecking bar that has a wide blade so the spring can't pop sideways as I pry it on or off. I use a crowbar at 90 degrees to the wrecking bar to make damn sure it doesn't go anywhere. Takes 1 minute to re or re

With the shock and link removed the TA will drop. Put a block under it so prying doesn't stress your CVs. Leave the pad in place and pry against the second coil where there's room to get a bar under it

[kwseattle]

Did you release the e-brake? That was my problem, LOL.

I couldn't get it any lower than what your picture shows, with sway link and shock disconnected. I forgot that I had the e-brake on and when I released it the spring literally fell out. Be careful though, don't want to damage those CV joints, sure hope I didn't...

[rmdashrf]

^^^+1. Same story here.

[thatphysicsguy]

Hahahaha where were you earlier?
Just spent an hour and half getting that shit out with a pry bar only to find that releasing the e-brake would've done it...

At least it's out...and I know what to do for next time. Just Hope i didn't fuck the e-brake up

Having a jack beneath the trailing arms prevents CV joint damage right?