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    Control arm install help!

    Hey everyone, newbie here. I am planning to install control arms and a few other things either this week or next. This is the first real job I've done to my car, haven't even done an oil change yet. But this isn't too difficult right?

    Anyways I've tried to do a lot of research but i have a few questions before I really start.

    First I bought:
    Front left and right control arms
    m3 control arm bushings
    2 sway bar end links
    2 end link mounting brackets

    and just recently:
    torque wrench
    floor jack
    2 sets of jack stands

    Im going to purchase control arm bushing brackets soon as well. I was hoping I could use my old ones but they look pretty shitty.

    Ive been using these two diagrams for help





    So far, does it look like I have what I need? Any other parts that I should consider replacing at this time? I don't have much extra cash but the job can wait a few weeks if its well worth it.

    Im borrowing/have the more basic wrenches and getting a pickle fork from a friend. Anything missing? Specific tools I may not be thinking of?

    Heres one: Bushing installer/remover. I suppose if Im buying new brackets i don't need to remove them from the control arm but as for installing how do I go about it?

    Do I need a shop to press in the bushing and then I can press it onto the arm myself?

    Ive watched bav autos vids that have been helpful
    part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsUUSp2xEos

    part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47UbYE3tExM

    They use their $130 installer to do it is that necessary?

    So... am I on the right track? Sorry for the long post and rambling, I just don't want to fuck up my car. Thank you for anyone who has anything at all to say!!

    #2
    I'd look into a ball joint separator tool like this:



    which I found worked a ton better for me than a pickle fork for removing the old control arms from the strut housing. AutoZone/Advanced Auto/etc will loan you separator tools for free with a deposit.

    You will need a shop, your own press/vise, or a DIY tool to press the new bushing in into the lollipop (and the old one out, unless you are going to cut/burn the old one out yourself or just use a new set of lollipop brackets.)

    You'll also need to devise a way to install the bushing + lollipop bracket back onto the control arms using a tool like Bav Auto's or some other method, they won't press on into fully installed position with your bare hands unless you're the Hulk.

    The only super-easy DIY to install for the lollipop + bushing that I know of is to go with one like Treehouse Racing's (http://www.treehouseracing.com/new/p...bushing-set-2/) or a poly bushing setup that has been pre-pressed into a new lollipop.

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      #3
      You will have to use a press to press in your M3 bushings into new housings.

      Yes you need a tool to install the new bushings/housings onto the new control arm. Some people use soap and hammer, but a proper tool will make the job 100 times easier.
      My Seller/Buyer Feedback

      Performance Aftermarket Parts & Accessories

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        #4
        You can do the lollipops by hand..they're that easy..I just did mine last week..this is assuming the bushings are already in the holder..put some dish soap on the control arm and slide the lollipops on..done

        Sent from my Samsung Note 3
        '91 318i (Alpine) - daily
        '88 325ix (Zinno) - drive here and there!

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          #5
          Shit didn't even need soap. Bought some power flex poly bushings in the lollipop and they just slid on the control arm.


          1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
          1991 318i 4dr slick top


          Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
          Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
          Mtech 2 turbo restoration
          Brilliantrot slick top "build"

          Comment


            #6
            New locknuts, and make sure to only use 6 point sockets, 12 point sockets and suspension bolts don't mix.

            Comment


              #7
              Poly bushings well slide on by hand, but stock style rubber had to be pressed/hammered on. They tap on with a hammer easy enough, just use a deep well socket to get them all the way on.

              Comment


                #8
                I just took my oem rubber bushings to a shop to be pressed on. $40 to press the CAB's into the carriers and $50 to press the CAB's onto the control arms (thought this was a tad high). Well worth it for me as I was pretty fed up with pressing oem bushings into my rear subframe without a press.

                Originally posted by SpasticDwarf;n6449866
                Honestly I built it just to have a place to sit and listen to Hotline Bling on repeat.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Here is my approach:

                  Cut or torch the webbing on the old bushing to separate the lollipop from the control arm. (Since you are replacing the control arm, don't worry about getting the remains off the control arm).

                  Take a large glass head screw driver and hammer it in between the bushing and the lollipop. Once you get far enough it will fall out.

                  Put the lollipop flat on the ground, position the new bushing on top of it, and put a piece of metal or block of wood on top of the bushing, and hammer the bushing into the lollipop. When it is flush with the bottom, set the lollipop on some washers or metal and hammer it a little father until the bushing is centered in the lollipop.

                  Put some dish soap on the bushing and new control arm, and hammer the bushing/lollipop onto the control arm. Use a large socket that fits over the control arm stud to drive it all the way down.

                  Bolt the new control arm/bushing up into the car.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    To break the outer ball joints free, I use a torch to heat them up a little and strike with a 4lb hammer. The inner ones always seem to fall out or pull out easy once the nut is off. To get the fcab off the arm I use a torch, then it is easy to get the new ones pressed in. A machine shop can do it cheap enough if you can access a press. Then I use a lot of dish soap and slide them on with the control arm reattached to the car.

                    If you are looking to save money and have access to a press or a machine shop with good prices, you can just get new ball joints pressed into your old arms.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I just used a balljoint breaker fork to separate the old balljoints. Fucked the old rubber boots, but I didn't need them.
                      Poly bushings as mentioned just slid in to the lollipop.
                      To get the old bushings out, I hacksawed the rubber so it was free from the control arm, then hacksawed the metal ring from the old bushing, and abused it with a drift and a big ass hammer until it came out.
                      Easy job though.
                      Just remember to take the plastic shield things off the new arms! Massive rookie error when I did that
                      sigpic

                      (clicky on piccy to get to thread)

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                        #12
                        Sorry to hijack the thread. If I only need to replace the outer ball joint (#6 on this diagram), what's the best method to remove it and how do I install the new one? Thank you.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Ftbagkicker View Post
                          Sorry to hijack the thread. If I only need to replace the outer ball joint (#6 on this diagram), what's the best method to remove it and how do I install the new one? Thank you.
                          You need to remove the whole control arm and replace it or take it to a shop that can press a new balljoint into the old arm. As for removal use some penetrating oil and sap all the nuts off and to separate the balljoint just hit the part it goes into on the spindle good with a big hammer and it should pop out.
                          Shawn @ Bimmerbuddies
                          Bimmerbuddies LLC
                          717-388-1256
                          2971a Roundtop Rd, Middletown PA 17057
                          bimmerbuddiesllc@gmail.com

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                            #14
                            I just heard of a nut splitter. I wonder if it will grab on to the nut easily and I can just cut the nut. Here's one on amazon.

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