Steering Coupler - Replace entire u-joint assy or just the coupler?

[turbo55]

I've got slop in my steering. Replacing tie rods now, eyeing the steering wheel shaft as suspect as well. Should I:

1. Replace the entire u-joint assy (what Bentley says to do)
2. Replace just the steering rubber coupler with a new one
3. Replace just the steering rubber coupler with the IE one

Also, I'm likely going to be doing a PS delete soon.

[JGood]

I don't see any reason to replace the whole shaft, unless the u-joints are binding. For the price, the IE part is hard to beat, since it comes with hardware. I don't really think this is a part that needs 'upgrading' on a street car, but it's one of those things that since it's almost the same price as stock, why not? IMO, not a whole lot of NVH is transmitted through the coupler, so there's no major drawbacks.

IF you're doing a P/S delete (although I'd recommend against that), that's more reason to upgrade, as it puts additional load on that rubber coupler.

[turbo55]

Yeah I wasn't sure if the u-joints have any tendency to wear.

I recently discovered by rack is leaking and I don't want to swap the rack out right now (if I did I would put an e36 one in) as I have other stuff to do / spend money on. Unless I just put some Lucas in the PS for now to see if it stops leaking, but that's a band-aid... I was thinking with a PS delete I'll have less pressure in the rack so hopefully it won't leak the remaining ATF in there.

[jalopi]

dude you seem to be taking this slop issue to the extreme

how much slop are we talking here? like, neglected '89 E150 that has a 90*+ deadzone in the steering wheel? how many degrees would you guess you can move your steering wheel before any action happens?

[turbo55]

Like 15-20° each way so a 30-40° dead zone. Its not that extreme to change tie rods and the coupler?

[JGood]

Like 15-20° each way so a 30-40° dead zone. Its not that extreme to change tie rods and the coupler?

If they are worn and have play, no, that's not extreme. But if the ball joints are tight and you can't physically see play in the coupler when turning the wheel, then you're replacing the wrong parts.

I'm currently dealing with about 10* of play in my wheel as well. However, I have brand new tie rods, new control arms, new CAB's, a solid steering shaft, solid strut mounts, new wheel bearings, etc... so I've narrowed it down to the rack itself.

40* is a lot. Your steering shaft would be torn to shreds and/or your tie rods would be clunking like crazy and have a ton of play that you could feel with your hands., if they were the culprits.

[jalopi]

oh dear... do go on then