Steering linkage help

[ElJimo]

I apologize for these pictures being so massive, I can't figure out how to resize them, any help on that would be appreciated.
As would any help in removing the linkage itself. I removed the bolt on both ends and have attempted to open up the ends with a flathead and a BFH.
Neither end will budge, I've been stuck like this for four days. Soaking in PBBlaster every other day.

[GonFern]

Have you been taking the screwdriver back out after "opening" the pinch? I find that if you jam the screwdriver in there (few light taps from a hammer) and leave it, you should be able to then give the front of the joint a few taps with a hammer and it should shock itself free. Also check that the collapsing part in the middle isn't frozen. If it doesn't collapse, it wont come off even if you get the pinch open.

[ELVA164]

Your problem is the age-old "aluminum-iron corrosion weld." Buy aluminum cutting fluid. Use the aluminum cutting fluid. If you have a small-to-medium axle puller/slide hammer, use that too. When you reassemble, cover the splines with copious amounts of grease.

[ElJimo]

Thanks for the help guys. I finally got the linkage seperated from the rack and got the rack removed from the car. yayyyyyy. But i still need to remove the linkage from the car itself in order to modify it for the new rack, but progress is progress.

ELVA, i'm assuming you can pick that stuff up at a hardware store? Might have to look into it in order to get the linkage off the car, it's pretty jammed on there.

[ELVA164]

First, I ground my knuckle down in the car after I reinstalled it and hadn't removed enough material; it is possible to do if need be. Second, I hadn't really thought about that because the can we've had in the shop has been around longer than I have....but I would think a hardware store or like a machine shop supply store...but it's also for sale online if all else fails. I recommend buying a can anyway because it's a great tool for freeing stuck bolts/headlight adjusters/splines, etc.

[estoguy]

I did this awhile ago myself - had a loose u-joint on my linkage.

Make sure that bolt at the upper end is loose - you don't need to pull it out, and it makes the reinstall a little easier in those tight quarters (ask me how I know). You obviously figured out that the lower one MUST come out, as it helps to lock the lower u-joint to the rack.

Before I pulled the rack, I thought I could use that extra space to push the linkage up to get it away from the rack. No such luck.

You might just need to hit it more/harder. I used a long flathead and a hammer. The upper end came off easily when I was pulling the rack out. It was the rack side that was a pain to get off, because of how to corrosion set in.

[ElJimo]

Estoguy: I ended up removing the bolt from both ends, it's still stuck on there for now though :/.

I don't have too much time to work on it, just a few hours a week so it's taking a while, but every time I can I spray it with some pbblaster and give it a few wacks with a hammer. I've also hammered in a picklefork in between it and the firewall and tried to pull it out that way.

[Northern]

When I did this, it was the biggest bitch. I removed the upper bolt, hammered a large flathead in the slot, and pulled/kicked the steering rack until the whole thing came off.

[ELVA164]

I really think the cutting fluid would help...

[ElJimo]

Ended up trying the cutting fluid, but didn't notice any improvement. Ended up torching it off. Burned myself pretty bad, but I got it off, modified it and reinstalled. Swap finally complete! Thanks for all the help.

[HerbE30]

I assumed I could ask in this thread since I was wondering, is it typical that I can grab my steering shaft and move it with what seems to be a lot of play.

Been having a weird "pull in the last direction I turned" and a bit of vibration issues. Kinda thinking the steering guibo is bad.