help. bouncy car

[DRTSRFR]

That's an Ireland Engineering adjustable bar.

The links should be as close to vertical as possible while keeping the arms of the bar somewhat parallel to the ground.

Those sliding adjusters are known to slip.

[staysideways]

Try the bounce test press down on the car and if it comes back up and goes down a little you are good but if it hops then bad news for your shocks

1989 E30 325i Sedan Alpine

[325isdan]

also should the sway bar links be angled liked this?

[325isdan]

well it hit a major snag. I can't for the life of me undo any of the subframe or trailing arm bolts. plus the trailing arm bolts where put on with the nuts facing the SF bushings and the dif.

I tried using a 2ft breaker and an impact gun (electirc). guess I'm going to have to find a shop that can break them loose for me.

I did snap some shot



Will this gap cause me issues? this is the drivers side.

passenger side






[IMG]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/12/7e88e843539d
1959106b2c0d4012a60f.jpg[/IMG]

[DRTSRFR]

Just loosening the bolts should do the trick...

[325isdan]

great thanks I'll give that a try. these mods were done to the car when I got it.

once loosened should I jack the car up to break the seal and lower it back down or will loosening the bolts be good enough?

[DRTSRFR]

The Poly may be contributing. If the trailing arms were tightened with the car off of the ground, they will be bound when the car is lowered back on the ground adding to the perceived spring rate. I would definitely get the rear on ramps, loosen and re-tighten all of the pivot points to start.

...just got to jump through some hoops. We'll get this figured out.

[325isdan]

The trailing arm bushings look good and the sub frame as well. the subframe are polly I think. they are green. I had the car aligned and it was in spec. the car does have adjustable sway bar links. could they be adjusted incorrectly? I will add which this might be the issue but the rear passenger side does sit a bit lower then the driver side. so when I adjusted the spring height the adjustments are different on each side for the car to sit level. I would say maybe .5inch difference.

I'll try and get pics tomorrow evening.

I did post somewhere else and was told those konis are rated for 500 springs. Is that true?

[DRTSRFR]

Those rates are actually on the softer side of the spectrum.
I run 650s on my Euro car which is the lightest chassis of the three I own.

Have any other changes been made to the suspension? Ie; bushings etc...

I have three e30s currently running on GCs, and have installed many systems over the years... never had bouncing problems.

Can you get some pics under the car for us?

[325isdan]

OK so I got more info for you guys and thanks for the help.

Koni 80 2522SPORT

Ebach 0500.225.0600.0
also on the springs 255565

I couldn't get any numbers off my old shocks they were to rusty.

I did raise up the rear springs just to see and no change. So what is my best solution to correct my problem?

[325isdan]

I'm assuming it is the basic kit, red eibach springs. I'm not sure how I can be over damping the shocks since I had them set to the softest to med hard with the same results.

I guess a better way to describe it is I can push the rear down a few CM before the dampers engage.

I'm going to try raising the rear up and report back. I hope also by raising the rear it will reduce some wheel hop.

[DRTSRFR]

Raising the rear will help if you are getting into the bumpstops, by reducing that tendency.

As others have mentioned; it's more likely you are packing the spring because of over damping.

I'm assuming this is the Basic $1000 kit, with compress to adjust Konis in the rear...?

[325isdan]

cool thanks. I'll look for some numbers. correct me if I'm wrong but I've been reading and by raising the rear back up it should eliminate some of the bounciness? As you can see the front is much higher then the rear. The front is as low as it can go.

[DRTSRFR]

Get the numbers off of the springs and I can help you with baseline settings.

The spec's will be printed on the spring. IE; (xxxx.xxx.xxxx) or (GCxxx.xx.xxxx).

[325isdan]

The "stiffening up" you describe is NOT supposed to happen. That is the result of too much rebound damping and is actually pretty dangerous in a bumpy corner. It's also called packing, the suspension does not rebound fast enough to have sufficient travel for the next bump so it ratchets down until it is effectively solid and unable to absorb bumps at all.


I have H&R race with koni SA shocks that i have adjusted to match the springs , it does not "stiffen up" as you describe.

hmm I did not know that. thanks for clearing that up for me.