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Opinions on GC full coilovers double adjustable ?

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    Opinions on GC full coilovers double adjustable ?

    W or w/o shortened front housings? What else does your setup consist of and what do you like/dislike. Thanks


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Brilliantrot 1991 325-1995 BMW S50 Engine S50 intake-headers Borla Pro XS- 318is Radiator Spal 16” pusher fan Cone filter Tuned by RK- Bilstein Sport dampers with IE springs -Z3 steering rack- 16” style 5 from E32 Wilwood 4 piston Dynapro calipers -EBC pads Volkswagen Corrado rotors stainless steel lines-E32 M5 master cylinder, 325iX brake booster, 2002ti remote reservoir-1996 325i driveshaft Z3 3.15 Torsen LSD Z3 1.8 shifter IS lip and spoiler Antenna deleted Euro Grilles

    #2
    They sell a double adjustable kit?

    Shortened housings are a must- you will be pretty short on travel without going this route.

    I'm a big proponent for GC stuff. The camber plates are super nice, and easy to adjust. Strut housings are nicely done. Koni's aren't they best but they are miles better than the BC/Megan/etc dampers and perform very nicely on the street and GC customer/knowledge/support has always been great
    - '88 m54 coupe

    <3

    Comment


      #3
      I assume he is refering to this:



      which do say koni double adjustable shocks, which i again assume are this series:



      Cut or not cut struts is all about how low you want to go and keeping enough bump and rebound travel in the shock at your chosen height.

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for the input. Yes was referring to that link. I definitely want to go with shortened then. They don’t sell them anymore so If I go this route I’ll probably get the sectioning instructions and do it myself .




        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        Brilliantrot 1991 325-1995 BMW S50 Engine S50 intake-headers Borla Pro XS- 318is Radiator Spal 16” pusher fan Cone filter Tuned by RK- Bilstein Sport dampers with IE springs -Z3 steering rack- 16” style 5 from E32 Wilwood 4 piston Dynapro calipers -EBC pads Volkswagen Corrado rotors stainless steel lines-E32 M5 master cylinder, 325iX brake booster, 2002ti remote reservoir-1996 325i driveshaft Z3 3.15 Torsen LSD Z3 1.8 shifter IS lip and spoiler Antenna deleted Euro Grilles

        Comment


          #5
          The advantages of double adjustable Konis are very limited vs. the cost delta. You’d be better off putting the money towards a higher end suspension.
          2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
          2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
          1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
          1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
          - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
          1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
          1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

          Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
          Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

          sigpic

          Comment


            #6
            What is a higher end suspension? Everything I have read has pointed me to GC being best available for E30’s


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            Brilliantrot 1991 325-1995 BMW S50 Engine S50 intake-headers Borla Pro XS- 318is Radiator Spal 16” pusher fan Cone filter Tuned by RK- Bilstein Sport dampers with IE springs -Z3 steering rack- 16” style 5 from E32 Wilwood 4 piston Dynapro calipers -EBC pads Volkswagen Corrado rotors stainless steel lines-E32 M5 master cylinder, 325iX brake booster, 2002ti remote reservoir-1996 325i driveshaft Z3 3.15 Torsen LSD Z3 1.8 shifter IS lip and spoiler Antenna deleted Euro Grilles

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by mabimmer View Post
              What is a higher end suspension? Everything I have read has pointed me to GC being best available for E30’s


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
              GC is best value, but at some point, Koni shocks are midrange at best.

              Most of the E30 suspensions are crap, however, so I guess that makes GC look like top end. (To be clear, I have a lot of GC and Koni suspension components.)

              At the high end, you’ve got MCS shocks available. My point, mostly, is that for double the shock cost, you’re getting maybe 1% performance. It’s still a koni. (And to be clear, I own a bunch of double adjustable konis.)
              2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
              2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
              1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
              1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
              - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
              1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
              1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

              Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
              Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

              sigpic

              Comment


                #8
                I recommend a GC/Koni setup, for anyone wanting to do any type of performance driving, with their E30. Once you get more serious and have learned the limitations of this setup, then you can move on to something a little more advanced; I would say that, for most folks, especially those that want to have some fun with their daily driver, the GC/Koni setup is the best bang for the buck. IMHO, of course.
                '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by e30austin View Post
                  I recommend a GC/Koni setup, for anyone wanting to do any type of performance driving, with their E30. Once you get more serious and have learned the limitations of this setup, then you can move on to something a little more advanced; I would say that, for most folks, especially those that want to have some fun with their daily driver, the GC/Koni setup is the best bang for the buck. IMHO, of course.
                  I agree with you. I’m just saying that adding nearly a thousand bucks in cost for a double adjustable shock is decent bit of money for nearly no reward.
                  2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
                  2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
                  1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
                  1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
                  - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
                  1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
                  1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

                  Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
                  Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

                  sigpic

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by nrubenstein View Post
                    I agree with you. I’m just saying that adding nearly a thousand bucks in cost for a double adjustable shock is decent bit of money for nearly no reward.
                    Oh, totally, I agree with you. No real value to adding the DA dampers.

                    OP is definitely on the right track; at least he isn't asking our opinion of BCRacing coilovers....
                    '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by e30austin View Post
                      Oh, totally, I agree with you. No real value to adding the DA dampers.

                      OP is definitely on the right track; at least he isn't asking our opinion of BCRacing coilovers....
                      Very true!
                      2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
                      2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
                      1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
                      1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
                      - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
                      1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
                      1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

                      Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
                      Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

                      sigpic

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thx all. I am a total newb with the E30. The car I bought has IE springs and bilsteins. I bought the car to cruise and take to the track for HPDE and autocross.

                        If DoubleAdjustable is overkill what do you recommend the standard $1750ish kit



                        What else is recommended I THINK it has stock sway bars I’ll have to ask the seller.

                        Looking for the best handling without being break your back stiff.




                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                        Brilliantrot 1991 325-1995 BMW S50 Engine S50 intake-headers Borla Pro XS- 318is Radiator Spal 16” pusher fan Cone filter Tuned by RK- Bilstein Sport dampers with IE springs -Z3 steering rack- 16” style 5 from E32 Wilwood 4 piston Dynapro calipers -EBC pads Volkswagen Corrado rotors stainless steel lines-E32 M5 master cylinder, 325iX brake booster, 2002ti remote reservoir-1996 325i driveshaft Z3 3.15 Torsen LSD Z3 1.8 shifter IS lip and spoiler Antenna deleted Euro Grilles

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by mabimmer View Post
                          Thx all. I am a total newb with the E30. The car I bought has IE springs and bilsteins. I bought the car to cruise and take to the track for HPDE and autocross.

                          If DoubleAdjustable is overkill what do you recommend the standard $1750ish kit



                          What else is recommended I THINK it has stock sway bars I’ll have to ask the seller.

                          Looking for the best handling without being break your back stiff.




                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                          The kit you posted, is definitely what I would suggest. I would certainly have them assemble everything, that way, you only have to bolt the parts on and set your ride height/dampening. A 450/650 spring setup should be a nice balance between aggressive and soft.
                          '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Opinions on GC full coilovers double adjustable ?

                            Unless you plan on spending a lot of time on track and making adjustments, DA coil overs are a waste of your money. Most SA dampers adjust compression and rebound together and are much easier to set up.

                            Personally I always piece together suspension. Spend the majority of money on the dampers, those are what make the difference. Go with quality name brand, no Chinese knockoff crap.

                            Get some threaded sleeves and some used springs off eBay in a few different rates to play around with. Eibach springs are widely available used and usually cost $30-40 each. The rate bias front/rear is determined by what’s already on the market (H&R, GC, Turner) and is a good starting point. Also look at the typical lengths, nothing too short like 4” or long like 8+”

                            Top mounts should preferably have some isolation and not have spherical bearings unless you track the car or don’t mind knocking and banging once the spherical bearings start to wear.

                            If all of that sounds like way too much work just buy a kit I guess. Unfortunately you don’t learn anything that way and will forever be stuck buying kits. One cool thing you can do piecing together a kit is add dual rate springs, which are the best option for a car driving on street and track
                            Last edited by pandaboo911; 02-26-2019, 11:57 AM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Make sure you let GC know how low you want your car to be. When I got my coilovers in 2015 with the shortened housings and 6" springs, I found that even with them set max height the car was still too low. I resolved this issue by adding 1" spring spacers, but it could also be achieved by requesting either a longer shock body (I believe mine were shortened by 2", so get 1" instead) or by getting a 7" long spring (probably the better solution).

                              I also concur on the spring rates of 440/650 making sense. It feels a bit soft to me on the street, but I'm going to tune the rest of the car with sway bar since the ride frequency is already pretty high and I want to have maximum grip.

                              Overall I'm quite happy with the GCs. The Koni shocks ride well, the spring rates are reasonable for a track/autox car, and they've held up well for the 3 years I've had them.

                              The other thing you need to consider with lowering an E30 is that your suspension geometry is going to get worse.

                              In order to fix the front you really need to run roll-center correction ball joints up front (basically unubtanium) or move the inside pivot of the A-arm up into the subframe (lots of fab). You don't have to do this, but it will help with preventing excessive roll from the increased distance from roll center to CG. I'm in the process of figuring out these modifications on my car right now.

                              In order to rectify the rear, you'll need adjustable RTA mounts. I highly suggest the PosiLock style ones, as the cam bolts on mine have moved a couple times. Once my car is set for good, I'm going to just spot weld them in place. The other option in the rear is to raise the rear sub frame (best in conjunction with the adjustable RTA mounts).

                              If you want to read more, one of the best resources I've found is http://e30sport.net/index.html although take everything with a grain of salt. Not all of his calculations were correct and I've since take some measurements on my car to recalculate the front motion ratios correctly (the published numbers of 0.94F, 0.67R are right, but his math for calculating them was incorrect)

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