camber adjsutment after lowering the car?

[matt]

Frankly, this is one of the reasons I am not stoked about spec e30 racing... even at the max possible camber setting, they are all wearing out the outer edges of their tires.

show me proof that says otherwise.

You didn't post any "proof" or supporting evidence when you posted the above incorrect information.

[Hick]

I had a problem with wearing the outside of my tires....

Hoping H&R race speings will cure my problems :)

Nope, too much toe in.

Ive got 1.7 and 1.8 degrees negative up front and my tires wear just fine. Also have an additional 1.25 degrees negative with camber plates for autocross and i will still wear out the outside shoulder on my hoosiers long before the insides due to roll over.

[Erick]

the outside of my tires wear in the front because I find myself with tires that the sidewalls roll too much... so the wear is really a flaw in its design. So in essence, the outside wear really isnt a camber issue... it's just pushing your car.

[Hick]

the outside of my tires wear in the front because I find myself with tires that the sidewalls roll too much... so the wear is really a flaw in its design. So in essence, the outside wear really isnt a camber issue... it's just pushing your car.

Yes, but this is not the every day use of the car. Remove your driving style and purely drive the car in a calm and/or occasionally pushed manor. The tires will wear normally unless there is an issue with the alignment.

[JGood]

the outside of my tires wear in the front because I find myself with tires that the sidewalls roll too much... so the wear is really a flaw in its design. So in essence, the outside wear really isnt a camber issue... it's just pushing your car.

Exactly, that brings me back to my first post in this thread. Drive normal, inner wear. Drive hard, outer wear. No matter what camber correction has taken place or tires you use (to an extent, obviously).

[Jean]

Exactly, that brings me back to my first post in this thread. Drive normal, inner wear. Drive hard, outer wear. No matter what camber correction has taken place or tires you use (to an extent, obviously).

So, with that logic you just need to drive somewhat hard or normal to even out the wear ;) j/k

[JGood]

So, with that logic you just need to drive somewhat hard or normal to even out the wear ;) j/k

Actually, yes. If I took my track car on a highway, it would eventually wear out the inner edge too. Then, when only the middle rubber is left, I could just drive on back roads "kinda hard" and get that middle section worn. Then you don't have to feel bad for throwing out a set of tires with fresh rubber on one side!

haha, I usually just flip the tire on the wheel, gets the job done a little easier :D

[matt]

haha, I usually just flip the tire on the wheel, gets the job done a little easier :D

Yep. I get spec-e30 takeoffs that are worn on one side. When I have them mounted, I have them put the best tread on the outside of the wheel.

[PiercedE30]

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

with my H&R races and Vorshlag camber plates set at -3* on each side and 1/16" toe in I had NORMAL tire wear, and I daily'd that for over 7 months and plan on dailying that for even longer.

HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHA

[Madhatter]

You guys arent running enough camber. 2 degrees is nothing. If you have a look at your manufacture recomendations for the tyres you run, you will see they reccomend 2.5-4.0 negative camber as a minimum.

Ive got some RT-215's off the race car sitting at work (which were replaced by R888's) which show the results of running 3 degrees neg and the outsides definately arent worn. Ive never, ever seen a car setup with large negative camber come in with outer tyre wear, if you guys run large camber and have outer wear, you are rolling over the edge of the tyre and you havent got enough pressure in them or your suspension isnt up to the task.

As for drag racing, man, you have no idea. You want to run less negative camber on the rear which helps with grip and stability in a straight line. The trailing arm setup in the rear of the cars already creates added negative camber under compression (coupled with even more negative when lowered to start with), especially when you have one side really loaded up in a corner. You simply dont need to dial in much negative at all, 0.5'-1.0 is about all you need and is about all even guys racing in E30 sport series will run in the rear, they actually respond better when running less negative camber on the rear, more on the front, plus some added caster to help them turn in better, making it feel a little more precise to steering inputs.

[JGood]

You guys arent running enough camber. 2 degrees is nothing. If you have a look at your manufacture recomendations for the tyres you run, you will see they reccomend 2.5-4.0 negative camber as a minimum.

Ive got some RT-215's off the race car sitting at work (which were replaced by R888's) which show the results of running 3 degrees neg and the outsides definately arent worn. Ive never, ever seen a car setup with large negative camber come in with outer tyre wear, if you guys run large camber and have outer wear, you are rolling over the edge of the tyre and you havent got enough pressure in them or your suspension isnt up to the task.

As for drag racing, man, you have no idea. You want to run less negative camber on the rear which helps with grip and stability in a straight line. The trailing arm setup in the rear of the cars already creates added negative camber under compression (coupled with even more negative when lowered to start with), especially when you have one side really loaded up in a corner. You simply dont need to dial in much negative at all, 0.5'-1.0 is about all you need and is about all even guys racing in E30 sport series will run in the rear, they actually respond better when running less negative camber on the rear, more on the front, plus some added caster to help them turn in better, making it feel a little more precise to steering inputs.

What exactly is your point in this thread? First you said no matter how you drive, negative camber will wear out the inner edge of the tire. Then you say I don't have enough negative camber because my outer edges are worn.

Then you go off about drag racing after I tell you that nobody here is drag racing. "Man you have no idea". No shit, thats because neither me nor anybody else involved in this thread is discussing drag racing. It's irrelevant. I don't know why you brought up "hooking up" in the first place.

Running crappy Azenis RT-215's isn't the same as Hoosiers or V710's. I use RT-615's to get me to the track. They wear on the insides. I use V710's on the track. They wear on the outsides. The reason they don't wear the same is due to driving habits and tire construction. If I jumped up to -3 degrees of camber my Azenis would last half as long, but I'd be better on the track for grip and tread life. If I decreased negative camber my Azenis would last a lot longer and I'd cord the outer edge of the track tires in one event. It's a compromise. The fact remains, even if I went to -3.5 degrees (I don't believe you can go much further on an e30), I will still be wearing the outsides.

[JGood]

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

with my H&R races and Vorshlag camber plates set at -3* on each side and 1/16" toe in I had NORMAL tire wear, and I daily'd that for over 7 months and plan on dailying that for even longer.

HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHA

What exactly does daily'd mean in your case? E30's are all the same. One with -3 degrees is the same as another with -3 degrees. You are the only person who drives "normal" and gets even tire wear with -3 degrees I've ever seen or heard of. That actually defies physics.

[NC325iC]

i would say my car has less neg camber than my moms z3 which is stock or my gpas 95 m3 which is stock too. in general most BMWs have alot of neg camber anyway