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i guess the easy answer is: You lower a can as much as possible so that it does not bottom out on the track/road you are driving on. You then fix your geometry.
Shortened strut housings......Fuck looks. If you are truly interested in performance read up a little bit....Get the Fred Puhn book, and the Carrol Smith Tune To Win book. That's good enough.
Read up on suspension systems first and how they work.
I like to think that I am very well informed about the basics of suspension dynamics, but am always willing to learn. I am just having a hard time following the logic that lowering, then correcting the suspension geometry, then adding shortened shock shafts and shorter springs has any bearing on increasing the available free-length of the shock. My reasoning I think is simple; you put 1" lower springs, you have now reduced the available compression travel and will hit the bumpstops 1" earlier. From there, the cornering forces either have to be reduced (i.e. slower speed) in order to keep from sliding since the cornering forces that were once taken up by the suspension now have to go somewhere (i.e. the tires).
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