How to best adjust camber?

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  • Axxe
    replied
    Real men wear out the outside shoulders on all 4 tires, with max static up front and non adjustment in the back.

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  • Massive Lee
    replied
    If I refer to the title of the thread (How to best adjust camber?), my reply will be very simple. Whatever value people will give you, it is not worth diarea chicken shit. The only valuable tool to measure what is the best camber adjustment for your car requires that you measure how your tires work. That "work" will change depending on the car's suspension, car weight distribution, driver weight, wheel offset, speed, track etc and can be measured in the form of heat. You need a pyrometer, either a probe style, or infra red.

    The best camber/toe setting is the setting that allows peak contact patch of your tires. Ideally, not only you should have a linear progression of temps across the tires, which would indicate proper inflation, but also the temps should ideally be the same across the tire (proper angle of the tires).

    That being said, the previous methodology applies to an ideal situation where you are well equipped and can do testing. So be aware that anything else is just pure guessing...

    With the simplified information that was supplied above, anyone can tune a racecar to its full potential. It is that simple and can be worth several seconds per lap. :pimp:

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  • nando
    replied
    -0.7 is at the very edge of the factory acceptable settings (-1.7, -0.7). it also doesn't sound very exciting. :p

    also the bummer with those bushings is setting camber and toe independently is pretty tough. They also have a reputation for coming loose.

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  • twistednut
    replied
    Febi makes an eccentric TA bushing that allows some adjustment. PN 33329058822. I used two sets. I use the outer set to take a little bit of camber out and the inner set to get the rear toe back into spec. As for the front camber, I flipped a set of GC plates and was able to set the camber at -.7.

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  • 87e30
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    you can center your steering wheel (by adjusting front toe) but nothing in the back is adjustable. They will still do a 4 wheel alignment but in our case that just means you get to see what your static settings are.
    Interesting.

    Looks like I should buy some new bushings then. Then get the alignment... Good thing I don't care about hte tires that are on there right now.

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  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by 87e30
    WAit, so after putting on GCs and Konis (had cut springs, fail I know, yell at PO) and now my steering wheel is slightly off from center I can't fix this with an alignment?

    I mean I know toe would help this but what about the back? No such thing as a 4 wheel alignment on our car?
    you can center your steering wheel (by adjusting front toe) but nothing in the back is adjustable. They will still do a 4 wheel alignment but in our case that just means you get to see what your static settings are.

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  • Fidhle007
    replied
    Originally posted by 87e30
    WAit, so after putting on GCs and Konis (had cut springs, fail I know, yell at PO) and now my steering wheel is slightly off from center I can't fix this with an alignment?

    I mean I know toe would help this but what about the back? No such thing as a 4 wheel alignment on our car?
    No.

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  • 87e30
    replied
    WAit, so after putting on GCs and Konis (had cut springs, fail I know, yell at PO) and now my steering wheel is slightly off from center I can't fix this with an alignment?

    I mean I know toe would help this but what about the back? No such thing as a 4 wheel alignment on our car?

    Leave a comment:


  • Fidhle007
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    you can adjust front toe, but that's it.

    fidhle's point is a lot of the excessive camber in the back is caused by 20 year old worn out rubber bushings. replacing them with new parts will make a big difference.
    What he said.

    And FYI I meant trailing arms.

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  • nando
    replied
    you can adjust front toe, but that's it.

    fidhle's point is a lot of the excessive camber in the back is caused by 20 year old worn out rubber bushings. replacing them with new parts will make a big difference.

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  • 87e30
    replied
    Originally posted by Fidhle007
    No, but if your control arms and subframe are straight you should be able to just put in new bushings and call it a day. You'll want to have that checked by a shop though, IE does sell kits for adjustment should you need it.
    .
    Wait, so are you saying putting the car on an alignment rack doesn't actually offer ways to align it? Becuase after lowering I can feel my steering wheel/alignment is off.

    And on a side note it cracks me up that honda guys flamed me for not getting a camber kit when I lowered and no one here cares. Love it.

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  • Knockenwelle
    replied
    Prolly more than what IE sells them for. But know that I make fully-machined, precision parts. I also used tool steel instead of mild for its machinability and surface finish. I was not happy with the slop in the IE version, as a different adjustment on each side of the same bushing or a cocked bolt due to slop is not my idea of a precision alignment and defeats the purpose of making things right in the first place. In all practicality, it can also cause binding with semi-solid bushings like Delrin, too. But I would consider making another set if you're an obnoxiously fastidious perfectionist like me and willing to pay for them.

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  • for3ver
    replied
    Originally posted by Knockenwelle
    I made my own set of slotted adjuster plates cause I didn't like how loose IE's fit the head of the bolt. Haven't had any problems with them, and don't expect to. The adjustability is worth all the effort.
    any chance you wanna make another set? how much?

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  • Fidhle007
    replied
    Originally posted by notoriousracing
    Just get a blowtorch and a big pipe and bend them back, I did this, it works great!
    Bend what back?

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  • Knockenwelle
    replied
    I'm using eccentric adjuster bolts in Delrin bushings for RTABs. I made my own set of slotted adjuster plates cause I didn't like how loose IE's fit the head of the bolt. Haven't had any problems with them, and don't expect to. The adjustability is worth all the effort.

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