How to best adjust camber?

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  • nando
    replied
    oh yeah, it also squealed like a pig when I pushed it on my epoxied garage floor. Definitely some resistance there.

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  • Hellabad
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    so is that why my car ate a set of tires in about a month because my toe was all screwed up? ;)
    Yes.

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  • Hellabad
    replied
    Originally posted by Lsb_E30
    Knockenwel I would like to correct you baised off my experience working on formula 3 racecars as well as a couple other track vehicles. Toe out does not cause a scrubbing of the inner part of the tire, the negative camber will. Toe out wont even scrub speed compared to the wheels being straight foward. I see alot of people posting things these days and dont have their facts straight. Not knocking you, just correcting your mistake...
    FYI I disagree based on my personal experience. Not knocking you, maybe its a open wheel vs tin top thing, but I really have always had a different result than you with race cars.

    Its harder for me to push a dead racecar with 1/4 toe out, than it is to push a car with -4 camber.


    Jay
    Last edited by Hellabad; 12-30-2009, 03:49 PM.

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  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by Lsb_E30
    Nando, read above post ^^
    er, I was replying to it. I was implying that the cause of my extreme tire wear was caused by a bad toe setting, and it was, because I had the car aligned and the next set of tires (same kind) lasted much longer.

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  • Lsb_E30
    replied
    Nando, read above post ^^

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  • nando
    replied
    so is that why my car ate a set of tires in about a month because my toe was all screwed up? ;)

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  • Lsb_E30
    replied
    Knockenwel I would like to correct you baised off my experience working on formula 3 racecars as well as a couple other track vehicles. Toe out does not cause a scrubbing of the inner part of the tire, the negative camber will. Toe out wont even scrub speed compared to the wheels being straight foward. I see alot of people posting things these days and dont have their facts straight. Not knocking you, just correcting your mistake...

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    A new set of rear trailing arm bushings will do more to save your tires than anything.

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  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by Fidhle007
    Holy fucking Search/Thread Jack/Back From The Dead Thread/Etc....



    If you lower the front of your car, you will have more camber. If you don't want camber, don't lower your car. If you don't want tire wear, get it fucking aligned and don't drive like a shithead.
    time for a new tampon?

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  • Fidhle007
    replied
    Originally posted by aTron12
    Hey Guys.. I'm new to this subject and have a really simple question. I have an '89 325is and recently had Bilstein HD's installed. I'm wanting to lower it to get rid of the gap but not slam it down to the ground. It will be (at most) 1-1.5". How bad will the negative camber be and is it worth getting camber plates so I don't shred my tires in 12 months?
    Holy fucking Search/Thread Jack/Back From The Dead Thread/Etc....



    If you lower the front of your car, you will have more camber. If you don't want camber, don't lower your car. If you don't want tire wear, get it fucking aligned and don't drive like a shithead.

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  • iamsam
    replied
    Originally posted by aTron12
    Hey Guys.. I'm new to this subject and have a really simple question. I have an '89 325is and recently had Bilstein HD's installed. I'm wanting to lower it to get rid of the gap but not slam it down to the ground. It will be (at most) 1-1.5". How bad will the negative camber be and is it worth getting camber plates so I don't shred my tires in 12 months?
    get H&R sport or H&R Race springs, and don't worry about camber, its not too bad, and no you won't destroy your tires.

    old thread btw...

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  • aTron12
    replied
    Hey Guys.. I'm new to this subject and have a really simple question. I have an '89 325is and recently had Bilstein HD's installed. I'm wanting to lower it to get rid of the gap but not slam it down to the ground. It will be (at most) 1-1.5". How bad will the negative camber be and is it worth getting camber plates so I don't shred my tires in 12 months?

    Leave a comment:


  • Knockenwelle
    replied
    Tire temps FTMFW. Tells you everything you need to know.

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  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by Massive Lee
    If I refer to the title of the thread (How to best adjust camber?), my reply will be very simple. Whatever value people will give you, it is not worth diarea chicken shit. The only valuable tool to measure what is the best camber adjustment for your car requires that you measure how your tires work. That "work" will change depending on the car's suspension, car weight distribution, driver weight, wheel offset, speed, track etc and can be measured in the form of heat. You need a pyrometer, either a probe style, or infra red.

    The best camber/toe setting is the setting that allows peak contact patch of your tires. Ideally, not only you should have a linear progression of temps across the tires, which would indicate proper inflation, but also the temps should ideally be the same across the tire (proper angle of the tires).

    That being said, the previous methodology applies to an ideal situation where you are well equipped and can do testing. So be aware that anything else is just pure guessing...

    With the simplified information that was supplied above, anyone can tune a racecar to its full potential. It is that simple and can be worth several seconds per lap. :pimp:
    yeah, I have an infrared thermometer and I borrowed a pyrometer last year - need a little more neg camber in the back and more on the drivers front, the passenger front was fine. :)

    also it is better to be slightly hotter on the insides, than hotter on the outside of the tire. even is ideal but not always possible to achieve..

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  • Knockenwelle
    replied
    ^^A fat, Bangled late-model serving duty as a cone-killer? Sure, that'll wear outside shoulders...

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