Very interesting, thank you for the pictures. Are the two screws on the right hand side of the back of the center to hold on the spacer or are they solid without a spacer. If it is a spacer what size is it? I had heard about these and from the previous pictures it looked like the spokes were thinner than the ones I am restoring. 4X100 is great for those of us that are staying with the 4 lug.
Cheers,
Jim
Another Rim Restoration Project Hartge
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Yeh they are Hartge Japan from what I can find they were made by Volk.
Here is a few more photos from when I first got them let me know if you want some other ones. The only pictures I do not have are of the seam weld.


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I think those are 3 piece wheels. Hartge design was different than BBS and look like 2 piece but are actually 3 piece. Can you post a picture of the front of the front of the wheels?
Cheers,
JimLeave a comment:
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That is interesting ill post some pics tonight I have the wheels off at the moment so shouldn't be to hard.I was told that some were welded and made into 2 piece. I have never seen them. If you have a picture of them please post it up. I would like to see a close up of the lips where they connect to the centers. I have seen two different lip designs but with rims this old it is hard to say if someone swapped out the lips on the other set or not. It appears that these have never been broken down before but that too is hard to say.
Cheers,
Jim
Here are the pics.
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Last edited by Massimo; 10-19-2011, 12:01 AM.Leave a comment:
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Good question. The front wheels had a little more sticking outside of the fender than I liked and I had extra space between the back of the rim and the strut. I am going to run the same size tire all the way around and I want to rotate them which would require me to chance the spacers because the rears work well with the factory 15mm spacers (ET25). I only ended up with being able to go with a 10mm spacer in the front so I did not gain much but I had to try. Plus when I refinish the rims I don't want to have to beat on them if I decide to modify the ET for the best tire fitment I can get.
Cheers,
JimLeave a comment:
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I made some progress on the wheels. I wanted to remove the factory spacers.

They are held on with 4 allen bolts which after soaking, heating, and using CRC Freeze-Off I only got 4 to come off without striping out the allen bolts. The rest had to be removed with a chisel and hammer.

Once those were removed the spacers were also stuck to the center of the wheel so I came up with this method of removing them.

By tapping on the bar with a hammer I got them to rotate and finally off of the rim.

The center was recessed to accept the nipple.

With this part behind me I did fitment with 10mm spacers in the front. For now I am going to keep with the 15mm spacers in the rear until I mount the tires. Wednesday I take them to Orange County to have them trued.
Cheers,
JimLeave a comment:
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I was told that some were welded and made into 2 piece. I have never seen them. If you have a picture of them please post it up. I would like to see a close up of the lips where they connect to the centers. I have seen two different lip designs but with rims this old it is hard to say if someone swapped out the lips on the other set or not. It appears that these have never been broken down before but that too is hard to say.
Cheers,
JimLeave a comment:
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Nice.
Just to give you an idea what these are worth over here. :-)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hartge-17-...#ht_500wt_1156
Holy Crap I picked mine up for $800AUS they need some work but they are ok. The only problem is that they are Hartge Japan so alot more rare and alot more harder to get info on, AND THEY ARE SEEM WELDED :(!Leave a comment:
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Score! Keep in mind those R888s are going to run quite a bit wider than your average 235/40.Leave a comment:
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Time to update your M-tech II vert build thread yet Jim? I'm watching you... ;)Leave a comment:

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