Will it fit with rolling and pulling?!?

[Boosted E30]

You cant see the paint damage in the pictures.
Im also e36 m3 5lug thats why the diffrence in offset.

[MatRacer]

Update: I rolled and SURPRISE, it doesn't clear. I didn't cut a lot inside the fender though. I'm pretty pround of the result, but I think I could maybe cut more and make them clear. The question is:

How much can I cut inside the fender without affecting the chassis intergrity?

[MatRacer]

You will destroy your fenders.
Im running 245/40s on 17x8.5 final et of 26 and i had to roll the rears flat and massage the little bump inside the wheel arch to get it not to rub. Now my paint is fucked, i have a new shell though so i dont care.
235s are about as wide as you can go with a good roll, of course this all depends on ride height aswell.

How is your fitment in the front? Et 41 I read in the 17'' thread?

I had to run final et20 on my 17x 8.5 up front to clear the strut. There is about 2mm between the strut and the wheel up front...

Also, still looking at the 17'' thread, your paint doesn't look that messed up!?!

[MatRacer]

Received my roller! I have a full weekend so the action will happen on sunday. Can't wait to do it!

Also test fitted the front wheel and tire with suspension. It's also gona be tight!

235/40/17 on 17x8.5 et 20

Tony, What is your front fitment?

[MatRacer]

Camber and toe adjuster is not part of the present step. I was planning to do it at the same time than my engine swap.

[Tonys18t]

it depends how low you will be, i would invest in camber adjustment anyway though.

[MatRacer]

You'll need about 5 degrees camber.

Do I need camber adjsuter on the subframe to obtain that or the stock geometry will approach this value?

[MatRacer]

All right! Thank you very much for the advice!! Will update when it will be done.

[Tonys18t]

Yeah, the bump inside the fender can be a problem if you have wide tires, stretched tires can avoid this little lump inside the arch. its best to grind it down ( very carefully!!!) and seal the resulting hole afterwards.

do not cut any part of the lip BEFORE you roll it. it will weaken the whole thing, the inner and outer parts of the arch will seperate.

[MatRacer]

I went back in the garage and looked closer at the inner fender. I see that the fender is in fact double layer, the inner and the outer layer. There is a bump in the inner part lest say from 9h00 to around 12h00 (Driver side, looking from oustide the car). Should I litterally cut this and seal it afterward with body sealant?

Also, Should I cut the part of the inner layer of the fender that "overlap" the lip of the outer layer before starting the rolling process?

[MatRacer]

side pics? i'm on the fence for 255/40 or 245/40

I will post when my setup will be done

[ak-]

Tony has spoken

[MatRacer]

I would clean the inside of the fender very well, grind down the dreaded inner "lump" inside the arch, roll the lip, pull the fender out, then shave the rolled lip, ( you have to do it in that order ).

Thanks!

Since english is not my first language, I'm not sure I really understand the stop steps in bold... Could you explicit it?

If it doesn't really clear, I would maybe buy 245/40 or maybe add my IE flares, but I would like to stay away from it at this step of my project.

I also think I will have to buy stiffer spring, like GC 500f and 750r. I actually have apex 60mm spring, which seem to be very soft... I already had those from PO.

[Tonys18t]

I'm going to have to agree with most of the people who have already posted, its simply too much tire.

but its possible, but you'll need a good amount of camber to pull it off.

I would clean the inside of the fender very well, grind down the dreaded inner "lump" inside the arch, roll the lip, pull the fender out, then shave the rolled lip, ( you have to do it in that order ).

I have 17x10.5 et -10, it clears with 225/35 and 215/40, but 235s would rub.
You'll need about 5 degrees camber.

[einstein57]

side pics? i'm on the fence for 255/40 or 245/40