Best quality wheel paint?

[Jand3rson]

Those who have painted their wheels, what's the best quality stuff to get? I've powdercoated in the past, but I can't really afford to go that route currently, nor is it really necessary with a good paint. I want something that's going to hold up well and be tough.

What have you guys used, and what's the prep-work required? Sanding? Should I have them blasted first? Primer required?

[R3Z3N]

I'd ask Formula Driver here, typically lurking in the BBS section.

[LJ851]

You really need a catalyzed paint for it to be durable, regular spray can stuff just won't last that well in such a harsh environment.

[Jand3rson]

You really need a catalyzed paint for it to be durable, regular spray can stuff just won't last that well in such a harsh environment.

The car is only good-weather driven, it's not a daily. Lives in the garage all winter.

[g.ruff561]

I have painted 3 sets of wheels. 2 sets of bottle caps and they came out great. I am currently working on my Schmidt Modernlines.

I usually call around get the wheels bead blasted. Not the whole wheel. Face and half the body. Do not use sand blasting. I have heard sand blasting can wear away the wheels details. Cost for beading is $25.00 each wheel. Home Depot sells 2 primers I have used. Primer 123 and a hi temp primer made by Rustoleum. Both seem to work well. Dry time is 24 hours for both products.

We have a store here in my area called Glue Products. You can bring in any automotive paint code and they will make it into a spray can. The paint is in a 2k can. Meaning your paint and hardener are in one can. The 2k cans must be used completely within 24 hours or the hardener will make the can in op.

I usually spray one coat per wheel every 15 minutes. I spray from a height of 12 to 18 inches. 2 cans will do a set of 4 wheels. Do not try to paint all in one coat.

I let the paint cure for 24 hours. Glue Products also sells semi gloss or mat finish clear coat in the same 2k combo of clear and hardener. The wheels must be cleared to avoid hot break dust eating the paint up. Same technique , left to right, back and forth. My paint is a late model Alpineweiss 2. I painted 2 sets of bottle caps to get the technique down before painting the expensive Schmidts.

The paint is approx $22.00 per can and the clear is about the same. Total cost for this project is around $200.

I hope this helps. Enjoy.

[ksjdan]

There's a shop here that charges $260 to strip and powdercoat 4 wheels.

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[AwakenNoMore]

Honestly I have had ridiculously good results with Duplicolor wheel paint over the years. Meticulous prep is a must though. Obviously its nowhere near the quality of "real paint" or powdercoating but its been great for me.

[Victell]

I want something that's going to hold up well and be tough.

Please update with whatever you decide to go with.

[LJ851]

The car is only good-weather driven, it's not a daily. Lives in the garage all winter.

By harsh i meant heat, brake dust, and proximity to flying rocks/pebbles.

Without a paint system, the catalyzed automotive paint in a can as mentioned above by g.ruff561 is def the second best option.

[cabriodster87]

VHT gives very good results, but only offers three or so colors for wheels. Ive also used engine enamel paint for more color choices with durability. 'Caliper paint works as well'

For prep use sanding sponges and or steel wool, No chemical strippers.. gl

[FredK]

If the wheel faces are already in decent shape and free of pitting, chipping, and signs of paint failure (cracking), then a scuff and shoot will suffice.

My opinion is to avoid the use of Wurth wheel paint. It is a lacquer that matches many European silver wheels, but it is very expensive for what it is. You'd need around 2-3 cans of color and clear, which will make it around the same price as an inexpensive two component urethane paint. Summit Racing has their own line of urethane paints that use a common activator (i.e. use the same activator for primer, color, and clear), and they run around $20 a quart.

You can use, in a pinch, a Preval to shoot polyurethane color and clear. However, the temperature must be sufficiently low because Prevals don't move much material, and you don't want to have the droplets dry out prior to getting to the surface you want to paint.

The best thing to do IMO is to befriend someone with a good compressor and HVLP gun and shoot an inexpensive polyurethane.

Be forewarned, you will need a good respirator for urethanes, as there are highly toxic chemicals in them. You will need them if you use ANY urethanes, whether it's in a spray can or being dispensed by a gun. You will screw up your lungs if you don't use protection.

[Jand3rson]

I have a friend with a gun and paint setup that could do them for me. No issue with pitting or anything, the wheels are brand new. They're my 3SDMs, and several parts of the face are polished, which I'm not really into. I want the whole wheel more of a uniform color, and a little bit darker of a silver.

[E30_fiend]

I've had amazing luck with Valspar paints. They adhere incredibly well and have been very durable. Valspar gets my vote. I will continue to use it.


Taylor