who has studs?

[nando]

Fair, it was the cheap 60mm studs I had from you guys that broke on me. two of them on the same day in fact.. also the chrome nuts that came with them ended up stripping (I changed my wheels a lot, probably 2-4 times every weekend). I upgraded to the new ones posted above and the black nuts. too bad they don't come in 60mm.

[Fair!]

Hey thanks for the input nado. Does it really matter what color the studs are? have you had issues with the none coated ones?

Well the color of the plating doesn't always determine the quality, material or strength of the actual stud underneath, but it is a pretty good indicator. The "chrome" looking studs are actually clear zinc plated studs, and there's a 99% chance they are made in China. We used to sell studs like that (see our 60mm wheel stud kit picture, below/left), but they really are a low cost product. The supplier changed on every order we got, and the quality was not consistent. We stopped selling them a year ago and it was a good decision for us.

As we've found out from several years of selling/making wheel studs, you tend to get a much higher quality part when made in Western Europe or America. There are real fastener/quality standards that can be relied on factories from these regions. We have our lug nuts made in Italy at an ISO certified plant and our wheel studs made in America, also ISO certified. The quality is always the same - we get material certs with each batch we build, the parts are built to our prints/specs and not just a commodity piece, etc.


Left: Cheap studs are usually "chrome" looking. Right: Better studs are usually much more expensive, and usually black

The black coating you see on many low cost fasteners (bolts) is a cheap black oxide coating - its pretty much worthless. But the black or grey coating you see on quality BMW wheel studs is usually a nickel-zinc phosphate coating, which is a much better product.

Cheers,

[nando]

60mm would be fine

[clydesdale]

I was thinking more for convenience. I hate the wheel bolts.

[nando]

with a 3mm spacer you probably don't need studs

[clydesdale]

Does anybody know what size stud I would need for 15x7 et25 with a 3mm spacer. I am getting d-force wheels and want a 3mm spacer to clear a Massive brake kit. Do you recommend a particular brand?

[Highway1]

Hey thanks for the input nado. Does it really matter what color the studs are? have you had issues with the none coated ones?

My car sees coastal spirited drives every weekend and an occasional auto-x and I'm looking to buy these http://www.velocitymotorcars.com/stu...-50mm-oal.html they are rated at the same strength as the Vorshlags, 150,000 psi.

[nando]

my reccomendation, unless it's for street use ONLY do not buy anything but the black hardened bullet nosed style. the chrome ones are made of a cheap material and can't handle the stress of track use.

[E30_fiend]

this thread is a year and a half old dude. . .

[Highway1]

Damn i hate Ebay. would anyone trust these? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LONG-...Q5fCarQ5fParts

[Fair!]

Yeah I got your message you left on my phone, I put the nuts facing each other just like shown in the instructions. But when I turn the inboard nut and stud doesnt spin, I am afraid that I am stripping the stud or nut. But I havent given the wheel bearing / stud any heat yet so I am off to that.
This strut housing is off the car, and the housing is disassembled.

Thanks for advice Terry,
Travis

Travis,

If the housing and hub are off the car is going to be more difficult, as you don't the the added leverage of the chassis and the brakes to hold the hub in place... just make sure to put the housing in a vise and using 2 installed studs and a prybar between them for leverage, have a friend secure the hub to keep it from rotating. Once you tighten the 2 nuts to each other (as shown) and the shaft using two 17mm wrenches, you just have to put all the leverage you can on the inboard nut with one wrench... it should pull the stud out eventually. Again, some heat to break loose the loctite might help if its stubborn. Doing these on the car can be a tick easier unless you have a very solid, table mounted vice and some help.

New hubs are a bit pricey, but they are a wear item, so don't kill yourself trying to save a $140 front hub and some suds. Most road race teams replace BMW hubs (and studs and lug nuts) every 1-2 seasons, depending on the use. Endurance cars have even shorter intervals. The joys of racing. ;)

[153624]

A blowtorch on the stud will melt the locktite....allowing the use of the allen key.

Each application is different, some people do not clean the threads properly the 1st time, so this will not work.

[nefarious7907]

By design they are and should be difficult to remove. The Loctite 262 (assuming you used some from the included tube - you should have if you followed the instructions) is doing its job.

You didn't say which studs you have, but if you have our 60, 75 or 90mm studs, which have the recessed Allen head drive, you can't use that to remove them. The torque necessary to break loose the Loctite is more than the Allen drive can take, and we state as much in our instructions.


Its a common removal mistake noted on more than one stud sellers website (Turner's site says as much also). We show what "double nutting" is in the instructions as well as our "Wheel Stud Helpful Hints" instructional picture gallery. Have a buddy step on the brakes to keep the rotor from turning.



And remember - wheel studs and lug nuts are just as much of a wear item as the factory "wheel bolts". If they are over 2-3 years old, just replace the studs when you go to install the new hubs (this is what race teams use for replacement intervals, but for a non-competition car they can and should last longer). If you feel like you might strip a stud, or don't want the hassle of removal (it is a pain), just buy some new ones beforehand. We sell them 1 at a time if you need that and they don't cost a lot.

Thanks,

Yeah I got your message you left on my phone, I put the nuts facing each other just like shown in the instructions. But when I turn the inboard nut and stud doesnt spin, I am afraid that I am stripping the stud or nut. But I havent given the wheel bearing / stud any heat yet so I am off to that.
This strut housing is off the car, and the housing is disassembled.

Thanks for advice Terry,
Travis

[everlast]

Very informative thread, and knowledgeable fellow. This answered everything I wanted to know about studs. I'll be purchasing a set shortly.. thanks for the info!

[Fair!]

I am going to have to call vorshlag up about removing the studs, its a lot more difficult that the instruction make it sound. I feel like I am going to strip the stud if I hold one lug stationary and try and turn the other. Maybe it wont but I want to be sure.

I had to replace one of my strut housings and I am going to have to remove the studs again when I do the wheel bearings this summer.

By design they are and should be difficult to remove. The Loctite 262 (assuming you used some from the included tube - you should have if you followed the instructions) is doing its job.

You didn't say which studs you have, but if you have our 60, 75 or 90mm studs, which have the recessed Allen head drive, you can't use that to remove them. The torque necessary to break loose the Loctite is more than the Allen drive can take, and we state as much in our instructions.

4. REMOVAL HINTS: The allen

hex in the studs are not strong
enough to remove when Loctite is
used. Follow the double nut
procedure when removing studs.

Do not use an allen wrench.

Its a common removal mistake noted on more than one stud sellers website (Turner's site says as much also). We show what "double nutting" is in the instructions as well as our "Wheel Stud Helpful Hints" instructional picture gallery. Have a buddy step on the brakes to keep the rotor from turning.



And remember - wheel studs and lug nuts are just as much of a wear item as the factory "wheel bolts". If they are over 2-3 years old, just replace the studs when you go to install the new hubs (this is what race teams use for replacement intervals, but for a non-competition car they can and should last longer). If you feel like you might strip a stud, or don't want the hassle of removal (it is a pain), just buy some new ones beforehand. We sell them 1 at a time if you need that and they don't cost a lot.

Thanks,