I need advice on refinishing these wheels

[Joey Link]

I just ordered tires for this period correct set of DP wheels that have been on my convertible since it was new. My original plan was to purchase a set of bottlecaps to use while I refinished the DP's, but that plan no longer exists. As you can see in the pictures, the wheels are in pretty poor shape. Some genius designed these so the spokes stick out a good deal further than the lip of the rim. When these get curbed, it's a big deal. I'm fortunate in that I have full access to a media blasting cabinet, but if there's some sort of solvent that'll strip the paint with less time and effort I'd much rather go that route. To make things a bit easier, I'll be removing the old tires, and I'm planning on painting them white again.

I wish I had a close-up of the worst one, but you'll get the idea from the pic of the second to worst. On the bends of the spokes the paint has worn through from curbing and it's into the raw metal, though not *too* deep. Most of you have probably seen this, and I was thinking once I got them stripped down to bare metal that I could use that bondo and sandpaper technique. Comments?

As for the actual painting of the wheels, I've never painted anything that really mattered before. I assume I could probably just strip the paint off and do it again if I mess up, but I'd like to get it right the first time. I want this paint job to look like it came from the factory and I want it to last. If you guys tell me to take it to someone with a paint booth and have them shoot it, I'll save my pennies until I can afford it. Otherwise, I'll be going at it with a can of whatever wheel paint you guys recommend (I've heard good things about Duplicolor?). So, assuming I'm doing it myself, this is going to be a three step painting process, correct? That would be priming, painting, then applying a clear coat over it. Because I'm a total novice when it comes to this stuff, can you guys tell me which products you recommend?

I appreciate your comments and suggestions!

[atomic]

You will need to strip the paint off with something like a airplane stripper (talstrip is best I have seen). You should be able to find some maybe at a Advanced Auto parts or some other parts stores and any professional auto body paint supply warehouse should have it as well. Or just google it and have some shipped to you...

Once stripped you will need to repair and damage that is needed (curb rashing either on the lips or faces of the wheels or anything else) Also check for any flat spots on the wheels, these would need to be addressed as well (not sure of the best fix for that however).

After the wheels have been repaired give the entire wheel a good sanding/rubbing with scotch brite pad to give the surface some tooth for the next steps to adhere to. Then you will do a good primer coat and wetsanding prior to any finish coats. The key is that you want to most perfect smooth surface before applying paint/clear. As any imperfections will show through. Then you will apply several coats of paint with light sanding between coats and then you will do the same with the clear and after lightly sanding the last coat you would polish it out with a compound by hand (unless you can get a supper nice result with the clear). My experience with doing this with a rattle can has resulted in a lot of work between coats as the rattle car never lays down as smooth of a coat as a professional HVLP gun will.

I would not use something like duplicolor either. I would go to a professional body supply store and have some paint made up and at least get the small diy co2 paint gun system to apply it with (I forget what they are actually called, glass jar and a disposable/replacable cartridge that gives you the air pressure to spray with).


Personally I would get the wheels repaired to your liking and prepped for painting and then I would take them and have them powercoated for a even more durable finish. Something that can be done with DIY methods as well but unless you have the proper equipment to apply the powder and big/hot enough ovens to bake the finish on, so probably not the best route to go on a budget either. But powdercoating will be the best finish you can put on them bare none...

Good Luck its a TON of work to do wheels and honestly the next ones I need done will be done through a professional. It easily took me a week or more to get the last ones done, and I still was not 100% happy with them.

IMHO so much worth spending $$$ to let a pro get them done in the same amount of time...

that was a lot of typing too


:p




edit ~~~~ Cool looking wheels, I have not seen a set since the late 80's when a buddy of mine had them on his MK1 Scirocco...

[Joey Link]

Today is the big day! (or the start of the big, long, tedious week of wheel refinishing)

Thanks a ton for that post, lots of great information. I thought about getting them powdercoated but the cost is far too high, and I'm a bit worried about the effects of that much heat on an aluminum wheel. Unfortunately, the cost to get them sprayed by a pro and the cost of purchasing a gun are too costly as well, so I'm going to have to try my luck with the rattlecan stuff. Hopefully the spray can gun adapter I get will help me do a better job. The good thing is I consider these a 'spare' set of wheels (though I don't have another set yet), so if I mess them up I can redo them and it'll be a great learning experience.

When you say lightly sanding, what grit sandpaper would you recommend, and is it wet or dry?

I bet after this set I'll get subsequent sets done professionally too, but the combination of little money and the desire to learn have already set the path for this set.

Anyone else have any suggestions?

[Teaguer]

DP5's used to be the shit and I sold tons of them back in the day .
Although I never really thought they worked on BMW's ...but they look the part on your white vert .

When you say lightly sanding, what grit sandpaper would you recommend, and is it wet or dry?

Honestly if you're just going to be rattlecanning them don't bother sanding between coats ot before the clear .
Sounds like you have a handle on what needs to be done and they should come out fine .

[Joey Link]

Ah is that what they're called?! I know the center caps say DP on them, but I can't find any more information and I know nothing about them. Can you tell me everything you know? :D How much were they? How much are they worth now? Were they mostly just for looks or did they have any performance value? Any idea how much they weigh?

To tell the truth, I was a little disheartened when I pulled one off and read "Japan" on the back of it :(

The reason I'm keeping them is because for some sick reason I love how much this car reminds me of the 80's, and those wheels really do help accomplish the 'look'. I normally hate painted wheels.

[Joey Link]

So I spent most of the day chasing supplies for the project. Finally got to the shop, got the car up on jackstands, got the wheels off and over to the tire shop, and they weren't able to take them off due to the style of the lip. I had to drop them off at Les Schwab which will probably charge me $10-$15 per wheel just for removing the tires :(

The manager was sure surprised to see the wheels. Apparently he remembers when they used to sell them, though he said they were American Racing Type 4's. I didn't argue, but are AR wheels made in Japan? :D

[sennasixty8]

Those are DP's, I also sold alot of those over the years.

The only ARE's that were made in Japan were the 3 piece designs, typically made in the old Enkei factories.

[Joey Link]

If so many of these were sold why can't I find any info on them? :(

[archie]

They are called DP LEACH.
My buddy had them on his M3.