e34 No Spark

[k.gen04]

Mmkay, have an 88 e34 535 (m30 motor), manual tranny. I got it not running, but the guy who had it before me brought it home and it was misfiring, then simply didn't start the next morning.

Issue with it is no spark from the coil.

Original ECU was a 153, replaced it with a 179 because I suspected the ignition coil driver was dodgy as the coil wasn't getting 12v.

Coil tested, was 9kohm primary/secondary. Replaced, new one measures 5.63kohm primary/secondary, 0.01ohm positive/negative. Gives a spark when shorting negative to ground and releasing. Has ~ 11.63v across it when ignition on.

CPS tested, 512 ohms at pins 47 & 48 of the DME plug, CPS unplugged and 4.63v at pin 1. Replaced it anyway, no dice.

No resistance between the ignition wire and it's shield with the DME plugged in and unplugged.

Connecting a multimeter from the ignition coil wire to 12v gets 12v even when ignition is on. Is this correct?

Hit me up if clarification is needed, just blabbered out everything I've done as far as I can remember. ANY help is appreciated, I've given myself a month before I force myself to part her out to pay for another car :(

[ross1]

No resistance between the ignition wire and it's shield with the DME plugged in and unplugged.

Connecting a multimeter from the ignition coil wire to 12v gets 12v even when ignition is on. Is this correct?

Seems you've well covered things so far but I'm a bit confused about the two steps you've described above.
What wire and it's shield are you refering to?
The green wire at the coil should have battery voltage with key on. If so try momentarilly grounding the terminal on the coil with the black wire and check for spark, if so the DME is not signalling for spark, could be DME could be CPS or break in the black wire from DME term. #1 to coil. Are the coil and spark plug wires good?

[k.gen04]

The ignition wire that comes off DME pin1 is a coax type cable with an outer sheild. In certain scenarios the cable has been compromised to the point where the shield is contacting the inner core, causing the coil to be constantly on.

Green wire at the coil has battery voltage in run/start. Grounding the coil produces a spark.

Connecting a 12v source via a multimeter to the ignition wire from DME pin1 yields 12v, even when the ignition is off, indicating that the DME is constantly grounding. However disconnecting the DME and testing the collecter-emitter resistance reads ~100kohm, indicating that the transistor hasn't shorted out or anything silly, so I'm presuming this is just what the DME does, as both my shouldnotbebroken 179 DME's do it.

[k.gen04]

Dead on. Quite a while ago I went and checked the CPS gap, it was quite tight but I thought f**k it, closer is better than a big gap. Went back just now to check and adjust the gap, adjusted to 1mm and got spark O_O. She's now running, albeit missing on several cylinders. Teach me for not doing the simple things first ahaha.

Now time to clean the plugs and I should be away laughing

[ross1]

Dead on. Quite a while ago I went and checked the CPS gap, it was quite tight but I thought f**k it, closer is better than a big gap. Went back just now to check and adjust the gap, adjusted to 1mm and got spark O_O. She's now running, albeit missing on several cylinders. Teach me for not doing the simple things first ahaha.

Now time to clean the plugs and I should be away laughing

[k.gen04]

^ She was sitting for six months too xD