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Clutch Pressure Problems. Need help ASAP (Its my daily)

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    Clutch Pressure Problems. Need help ASAP (Its my daily)

    Hey guys,

    Lately its been hard for me to get my car into gear, so I figured it was either my master or slave. I replaced my slave, no luck. Then went on to the master and saw the pedal bracket was cracked. Replaced all the bracket and the master.

    Now here is the real issue, I went through the whole bleeding process where there is a pump at the bottom and the air bubbles are all pushed to the top. With all that out of the way, the pedal is soft, and it wont go into gear. Kept pumping the pedal, it would get stiff, not enough to get into gear. If I hold the pedal for about 5-10 seconds it loses all its pressure.

    What can it be?

    Thanks
    Ashar


    BUY MY WHEELS! BBS E50s!!
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=275407

    Originally posted by Lurker27
    Any man will tell you being blown is better than being stroked.

    #2
    clutch problem basically

    hi.........clutch pressure problem basically generate ruff driving and continue pressure to clutch .and continue servicing to regularly time to time.
    .................................................. .................................................. ....
    Top Ten classified website

    Comment


      #3
      just keep pumping it mate, not unusual to experience what you are. usually takes about half an hour and 300 or so good pumps to get all the air out. just keep the reservoir filled up, and connect a hose to the bleeder nipple on the slave and recycle the fluid (once all the old stuff is out).

      Comment


        #4
        ^^Did that and no luck :(


        BUY MY WHEELS! BBS E50s!!
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=275407

        Originally posted by Lurker27
        Any man will tell you being blown is better than being stroked.

        Comment


          #5
          If you lose all pressure just holding it it sounds like there is a sealing problem some where. Even if there is air in the system it should maintain a constant pressure. Are you losing brake fluid ? have you checked your line and fittings ? Also sometimes if the master cylinder is compressed at an angle it will not seal correctly. You said you changed the pedal bracket which is good. Is one of the clutch pedal bushings missing ?
          Last edited by evoe46m3; 01-16-2013, 06:34 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            Clutch pedal bushings? I bought a new MC and see how it works out.


            BUY MY WHEELS! BBS E50s!!
            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=275407

            Originally posted by Lurker27
            Any man will tell you being blown is better than being stroked.

            Comment


              #7
              Well, I replaced the master and the slave (again) and this time I replaced the lines as well. I went through the whole bleeding process and still have the same issues. After holding the pedal down for a few seconds it loosing most of its pressure.


              BUY MY WHEELS! BBS E50s!!
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=275407

              Originally posted by Lurker27
              Any man will tell you being blown is better than being stroked.

              Comment


                #8
                Have you looked at the brake booster yet? The diaphram inside could be damaged/old and allowing air to pass.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by leadphut View Post
                  Have you looked at the brake booster yet? The diaphram inside could be damaged/old and allowing air to pass.
                  Well, going from an e30 approach there is no relation to a booster helping a clutch master or clutch disengagement.

                  If there was air, It could compress, and cause the pedal fade. Its not like it wouldnt seep moreso, but it does sound more like a leak.

                  Since you replaced all lines, clutch, and master, I would double check the clutch master for an internal/external leak. If that seems good, here is the easiest way to bleed a clutch (Read it from a member on here. I rebled a clutch in <1 minute no joke, probably the best thing i've read on here)..

                  -Open the bleeder screw on the slave
                  -Go to an auto parts store, buy: Oil can, vacuum hose that fits the nipple of the slave/oil can, dot 4 brake fluid
                  -Fill can with brake fluid
                  -Hook vacuum hose between the slave and the oil can.
                  -Pump the slave full of brake fluid, and stop when you see no more bubbles entering the slave.

                  It is so easy and I haven't had any disengagement issues. Other then that, the shortest time i had bleeding a clutch was about 15 min, on my back in the dirt. I helped a friend bleed a clutch for a good 20 minutes, of which he had to still bleed before and after that. Best of luck.

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