1991 318is M42 Refresh Journey

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Upper and Lower Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

Easy thing to do after subframe, steering pump and steering rack out. I had a weeping leak due to upper oil pan gasket being piled and some loose bolts. After removing the lower pan, I noticed I had two bolts from upper pan in the lower pan. Not sure when it got loose enough to just drop in the lower pan.

note: did upper engine refresh couple years ago already.

Here’s some pictures before going through some cleaning.

Gaskets. It seems original but can’t tell. It was stuck to the metal pretty good. Spend some time removing and cleaning the surface.





Before cleaning

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Here’s after cleaning…

Nothing particular special in putting it back together. Read people using gasket sealant/RTV vs paper gasket. Decided to keep it OE/OEM. You do have to some sealant in few spots where you got two metals mating on engine block. Didn’t take any pics of this.

Torqued all the bolts to spec.

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don’t have picture but you do need to remove dip stick tube. So, ordered new o-ring rubber gasket and reinstalled as well.

[hotbascosauce]

Great work. Appreciate the attention to detail. I also have a sterling silver 318is. Hoping its in the budget to get it repainted this summer.

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hotbascosauce, I would say getting it resprayed gave my 318is an new life. I found a local restoration shop that was super flexible and easy to work with. We worked together where I did all the dissembling and reassembly of bumpers, mouldings, gaskets, door handles, etc. basically anything I could take my time to take pictures, strip it down and reinstall. some of these parts can get little stubborn. I also ordered all new moulding clips, etc.

Not sure if this processed saved me any money. But at least I knew how it went off and back together. Also, took this time to dissemble and clean up the key holes and other things. Many times, restoration/body shops have so many cars they are working on at one given time, they can be guessing.

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Replaced engine mounts as well. Nothing wrong with current ones. Figured since I go the engine suspended, why not. New one should last another 30+ years. They are getting expensive (not sure how much it was but didn't realize how much these cost). Also took the time to clean up the brackets. Years of gunk and dirt. Purchased new OE BMW parts from BMW dealership. Read online that you can use other E30 mounts but the round round tab next to the subframe bolt would need to be grinded off. Didn't want to mess with that. I think it could have worked but not sure as the subframe has a hole slot that looks like you can install different OE engine mounts.

Part # 11-81-1-137-076

Here's couple pictures to show close up of the new mounts. I couldn't really find any online for reference point.

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Here's additional pics. It was simple few bolts to remove both brackets (driver and passenger) from engine block. On the passenger side, you do have a ground cable to you need to disconnect to remove the bracket. I didn't really read up on the instructions prior to tackling this part as it seemed intuitive.

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Getting closer to finally tackling the new steering rack upgrade.

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Here's the beginning of the steering rack upgrade process. One of the things I did was purchase the new firewall plate. I wasn't 100% certain if I needed to modify the firewall opening. I read online (and chatGPT) that I wouldn't need to. I didn't want to get into thick of things and realizing I needed the plate. So, I ordered it advance.

Here's some pictures showing the comparison...

The original one is more oval shaped (top and down) vs. new one is perfectly round. The new shape didn't make any difference with the performance or with the rubber boot.



You can see (in red) how it cuts lower right to the original plate. What I noticed as I was dry fitting was that the new (to me) e36 rack requires the steering shaft to go toward lower right corner (reference point here is...if you are sitting in the driver seat).



On the backside, the OE part had some thin foam attached to it. I had some one-sided adhesive foam materials from previous projects. I chose the black foam backing. The OE version had more yellow version. Figured color don't really matter here. I think the purpose is to avoid metal to metal (firewall metal to to plate) contact. It worked out perfectly.

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After dry fitting everything, I realized I do need the new firewall bracket. It could work without it but the steering shaft was rubbing too much to the rubber and I wanted free and smooth play. I am installing E36 steering rack. The angle of the new steering shaft connection from the steering rack requires the steering wheel shaft to move bottom right (imagine like 5pm direction on a clock when you are sitting in the car).

Below is the rubber boot/grommet. You can see the groove where the metal round bracket would sit between the lips.





Also took this opportunity to clean up some things.

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The condition of the subframe, control arms, bushing, etc. were good. No rust or anything. Just years of dirt and grimes. Previous owner did replace the control arm/bushing. I did order new OEM control arms, all new bushings, etc.

After getting everything cleaned up, doing some paintwork, here's how the subframe, control arms and sway bars looks.







Finished versions...



For me, pressing the bushing back onto the lollipop was not that bad. Also, not too hard to get it back onto the control arm. I used liquid dish soap to lubricate and it was just hand/body pressure to push down the lollipop/bushing to control arm. The bushing to lollipop, i froze the bushing and used hammer with wood block and some previous land cruiser project wheel bearing races (perfect size) to press in the bushing.

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When ordering for steering restoration/upgrading work, I spent some times (hours/days) researching what I wanted to do to upgrade but also recondition/restore it for another 35+ years.

At the time or searching, I found the only new NLA OE power steering pump (on eBay) in Greece. I have ordered parts from Europe on other projects as some E30 parts are impossible to source in the U.S. The current original pump is fine (no leaks, etc). But, figured, if I am putting in all new fluid, hoses, new-to-me steering rack, etc., I would just go ahead and replace the pump as well. I will keep the OE in my used part bins to rebuild at later point or sell it. Didn't want to mess with rebuilding at this point as I got myself into so many other rabbit holes.

I just had to move couple parts from original to new prior to install. Picture below, I was dry fitting the banjo bolts on the new pump.


Original Pump Plate/Number:


New plate/number

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Steering Pump Number: 32-41-1-141-205

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For steering system hoses, I used all 318is hoses except the hose that goes from steering pump to steering rack. Knowing that I needed to do some bending because of the new banjo connection/location on the rack, I wanted to get a new hose that may require the least amount of bending. I found one that was perfect for this project. After all, I didn't have to bend anything. It's made by Rein and purchased on ECS. I believe it was used on E30 M20 engines. The straight banjo connection went to the rack and the bended side went to the pump. Because it was straight, I was able to easily hook it up to the new rack.

Part Number: 32411134436

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PSA...When receiving new parts from vendors, this is a good reminder to double check everything before installing.

Normally, FCP Euro is great. I received a new hose that was much shorter for some reason. So, I had to resend and receive new correct one. They were great about it. They too were little surprised.