1991 318is M42 Refresh Journey

[udubfl]

Here we go with steering rack selection....So many choices. So many youtube videos watched, etc. Most say to go with E46 yellow, etc.

I ended up going with E36 1996+ rack (3213-1-096-280)...Steering Rack Silver Tag# 7852-955-227 .

Based on my research, these racks are in the following: E36 Regular, E36 M3 1996+, E36 Z3M.

My decision process...I am not planning on tracking, so no Z3. I wanted an OE+ experience and E46 yellow would be interesting and still can be in the future as my system is easily interchangeable now. Figured I would start with an E36 version. Wanted a really great conditioned used rack as well and I was able to find one on eBay.

Here's how it came from seller:

[udubfl]

Ordered E36 TieRods, boots, etc.

[udubfl]

Tested, cleaned up and prepped the sterering rack further (splines and exterior) and begin assembling. Purchased and used BMW grease as I didn't have other stuff laying around.

[udubfl]

Here's old vs. new.

[udubfl]

Before mating the rack to subframe.

[udubfl]

Bolting up the the whole system (subframe and rack) at once was easier (at least for me) vs. piecing it together on the vehicle. I did few dry fittings (i.e. steering shaft couplings, firewall hole, etc.) before torquing everything down.

You can see the two round spacers to bolt on the e36 rack onto subframe.

[udubfl]

Here's how it looks all bolted up underneath the car...I did have to raise the engine up a little up more since the new engine mounts are little thicker than the old tired compressed engine mounts.

[udubfl]

Here's the original rack and part number. After cleaning it up, I think I will save the OE rack too or sell it. It wasn't leaking and looks to in good condition.

[udubfl]

Just going back...Here's the control arms I used.

[udubfl]

Added new ATF fluids, bled it, etc. The new system seems to work great! The steering feels little heavier with the new-to-me E36 rack vs. OE E30 rack. The wheels are still off the ground. Lock to lock is less than E30. I haven't had the chance to take it down and get it aligned yet to really test it on the road.

I am now at an another rabbit hole. Considering that I have literally rebuilt/upgraded the entire front subframe system with new bushings, engine mounts, steering rack, etc., my mind goes to the tie rods and control arms connecting to the front struts. I know the previous owner did add new H&R springs and shocks (based on visual and receipt records) but I wasn't sure if it was still good. So, after spending few days thinking about it, I ended up removing the front struts to check out the strut system and also the body condition.

[udubfl]

Regarding the chassis and body. Underneath the 318is wheel well looks great. It didn't really live in any rust belt area. So, it was great to see no rust or any issues. Not even in the strut tower bolt area. Just dirt and grimes over the past 35+ years. Then another rabbit hole begins.

I ended up degreasing, brushing and basically washing the wheel well a few times. I want to ceramic coat it. So, prepping it up. Never did that before but this is what folks are doing now to protect the wheel wells. I figured why not since I got everything apart anyway.

This is before brushing at all. After pressure washing, I just sprayed chemical brother orange degreaser. The tape and white plastic is to protect the new subframe and steering rack system I just installed. Not taped for painting. No fake stuff here where people spray paint rusted chassis!




What is interesting is the silver body paint and the chassis paint coming together. I always thought it was just one color in the wheel well. Both sides the pretty much the same. No protective stuff on it yet. This is just cleaned up and dried up. The strut towers looks great.

[2mAn]

Very much a fresh rebuild... so clean

[JasonWilson48]

Forgot about this one... How is the front bumper repair going? You collecting parts to repair that still?

[udubfl]

Ahh. yes, the bumper took a while. It is now completely restored. You are correct. It does take some time to collect/source the parts.

The inner fiberglass bumper cracked with the accident. I could have mickey moused it since it’s not visible but that would have drove me crazy. At the time of searching, I couldn’t find anything in the U.S. But, I got lucky and found a brand new OE one in Europe and had it shipped. I ended up ordering all new lights, trims, etc. too.

I also got lucky that the only real damage from accident was the bumper and right fender. No damage to hood or lower valance.

I will try to post some pics later this week.

[udubfl]

Here's how the body looked after taking off the bumper, lights, and grill for initial inspection. The plastic bumper brackets that holds the bumper also broke, so needed to replace those parts.