Advice before eta engine swap?

[NeoMishMoo]

Switching out my 87 eta engine for a better running 87 eta engine pulled from my parents totaled car. Any advice before having it put in?

I'm an amateur DIYer, do you think I can pull the engine out of the wreck myself or should I let the pro pull it? Doing it myself will save 50% on the engine swap ($400 to pull the replacement, $400 to put it in my car).

Anything I should have done to the engine before putting it in (reasonably priced)? The replacement engine has a new timing belt, distributor cap/rotor 8mm ignition wires, and some other stuff that makes it better than my current engine. Current engine suffers from poor compression and oil pan leak.

Replacement eninge is out of automatic, putting it into a manual.

Going to have the transmission looked at while the engine is out, going to put a bavauto short throw shift kit on,thinking about their adjutable fuel pressure regulator as well.

I'm just looking for inexpensive performance upgrades, not looking to spend much trying to make an economical engine a performance machine.

Any other maintenance/part replacement that will be a lot cheaper to do when the engine is out?

Going to make my order from bavauto in a couple days then have the engines swapped sometime in the near future. Any advice would be great!

[TexasTerp]

There's absolutely no reason for you to buy the AFPR unless you are going to boost or do some major performance work, that's just a waste of money for an eta engine.

If you're able to pull your engine then you can pull your replacement as well. That'll save you $800, you'll need to find a place that rents shop cranes.

I would put that money into a new exhaust system, give your engine better airflow and sound better. or put it into a new suspension for the car. You could also buy at Mark D chip and 19lb injectors.

[slo325i]

Also i believe that the pilot bearing is needed for a manual motor.

[reelizmpro]

swap the flywheel.

[Van Westervelt]

x2 on the Adj Fuel Press Reg, unless its a custom build, its a waste of money. If yours is bad, replace it with a new oem unit, or leave it alone.

Replace the not so fun items, motor mounts, oil pan gasket etc. Maybe pull the injectors and have them cleaned and tested.

Also, your shifter, you would be better to opt for the UUC shifter instead. BavAuto charges exorbitant amounts, you wouldnt be hard pressed to find better or equal parts for less elsewhere.

[rThor432]

swap the flywheel.

I'll second that. It's a great thing to do for the eta.

[NeoMishMoo]

Thanks for the advice on the AFPR. I put a new clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing on about 3 years ago. I'll take a look at the pressure plate though.

Mark D chip? I was going to go with the Jim Conforti chip at Turner? I've heard nothing but good about the turner chip. Where is the Mark D chip offered for sell so that I can give it a look?

I know bavauto is sort of high but they have good customer service and good product quality IMO. Bavauto's short throw kit is $234.95 with a $37.95 installation kit, UUC's shifter is 325 and requires modification on the selector rod.

The mechanic is going to charge $400 pull out my engine and drop another one in, but he is going to charge an additional $400 if the "new" engine is still in a vehicle, so I was going to pull the "new" engine out myself and have it ready for the mechanic.

Pulling an engine out should be easy but I'm not confident I could put an engine in. Always easier to take things apart than to put them back together.

[Van Westervelt]

After a few years, you will wish you went with the UUC. It only requires modification if you are using your vibration dampener.

[87e30]

Or you can do a z3 shifter for a fraction of that price...

I have yet to put mine in so I can't personally comment but many people love them. And for about 60 bucks you can't complain.

[NeoMishMoo]

Maybe you're right about the shift kit. Bavauto's uses the original selector arm and mine looks to be a little worn, thats what I get for letting a local transmission shop convince me that I didn't need to buy a short throw kit that his mechanics could make me a shifter. Lasted 121 days (1 day over warranty) before the shifter broke. I'd say that guy might have messed up my selector rod too.

Do you have to bend the selector rod in the UUC kit for an eta?

[rThor432]

Or you can do a z3 shifter for a fraction of that price...

I have yet to put mine in so I can't personally comment but many people love them. And for about 60 bucks you can't complain.

I installed the Z3M shift lever (part # ending with 254) when I was installing the little flywheel in my eta. $45-50 and it was an excellent upgrade. There is no clearance issue with the big guibo transmission, but I'm not sure about the smaller guibo with the harmonic balancer. I didnt bend it either and it sits just fine for me.

[Van Westervelt]

Mine sits just fine, no harmonic balancer, no bending.

[BeirBrennerE30]

i had a UUC ssk in my eta before the swap and a different UUC one after the swap and the 325is i just got came with a Bav auto shifter. There is no comparison. The Bavauto shifter is super notchy and it makes shifting difficult. The UUC shifter is a work of art.

[NeoMishMoo]

Wow, good thing I didn't get the bavauto shifter. The UUC looks pretty good but the Z3 shifter sounds even better to my wallet. I'm on a tight budget. I'm not sure what shifter has the last numbers of 254. Looks like the suggested lever is the 25 11 1 434 148 from the 1.9 Z3. Alan Alfano says that the z3m lever (25-11-2-222-384) is notchy because the selector rod is straight. the 1.9Z3 lever is bent like original e30 arm.

I'm going to look at my selector rod when I get home to see if it is bent or straight. I have a transmission from an 325es and the rod is straight.

Z3 shifter is OEM and cheaper. If I keep adding z3 parts to my car I'll have to make a Z325es badge!

[daniel]

i prefer the stock shifter.