IE Stroker Kit vs S50

[nando]

if you are going with a stroker IE is definitely not the place I would go..

[nando]

With a great tune, headwork, cam and 3.1L 11:1 comp M20 you can expect probably 190-210 whp from what I've read.

In otherwords, to drive around a raunchy 25 year old technology race motor. Guaranteed the cam to make that power will make it a chore to daily drive on the street.

this isn't really true.. it's just because nobody here does them right. Look at what the guys in europe, australia, etc are doing. 200whp is no problem for a 3.1, but people here like to stick with mild cams, half assed port work, poor tuning and basically the cheapest parts they can find.

The best example I can think of was dave length's 3 liter, which sucked for him because he basically just bought all the most expensive parts but there really wasn't any thought to how they would work together. I don't think he ever got it running on anything but the stock chip before the car was totalled and he had to part it out.

Everyone always goes down the wrong path - dbilas ITBs is a great example. Sure, you get a bit better top end and throttle response, but $3k spent on headwork and tuning would go much further. There are plenty of people making well over 200whp with the stock manifold, just not here. Digger's 3.1 comes to mind, and I doubt it's really that undriveable. ;)

[rThor432]

I was going to say this, but I figured I didn't have to.

Haha, yeah I was gonna say the same, but again didnt feel like I needed to...

[z31maniac]

nando, find diggers thread, I remember he had to use some special "shoot out" mode correction figure on the dyno to get that number.

But I do like the idea of an M20 striker from the idea you aren't adding the weight up front.

[nando]

nando, find diggers thread, I remember he had to use some special "shoot out" mode correction figure on the dyno to get that number.

But I do like the idea of an M20 striker from the idea you aren't adding the weight up front.

it wasn't special, it was the standard correction factor.. he still dynoed higher than a couple M3s with the same machine.

[ColdAccord]

I have all the parts to build a 2.7 Racing dynamics stroker

are you the one that bought my pistons?

[ck_taft325is]

From any and all sources, they'll tell you the s5x is by and far a faster engine when it comes down to raw numbers. And the swap, from most accounts, isn't really "that hard". But it's as someone previously said, where are your priorities? I've decided on a 2.7l stroker simply because it's where the engine started out at. I def. understand the power limitations for the motor when I'm done. I wont be pulling 200+ whp, but it'll be my little handling get-up with a decent bit of torque. At long last, that Dodge Caravan better watch out.

Now in the long run, I know the power bug will nip. I figure an s5x swap of sorts will occur, but that's where I can take my time. After this projects done and I can daily drive my 327i around with it's cool badges and story behind it, I'll buy a shell. Then an engine. Build it up and drop it in over the course of several years. Keep me nice and occupied. I don't want just one car. I want several that I've built. Call it pride or just flat out joy, but I think there's more to building it THEN driving it than just having gobs of power on demand.

My two cents.

[MIKe30]

Oh and Metrix Motorsports will build you a 300+whp S52 for around 8k.

I probably should have went this route...

...

However, I daily drove my dad's e36 95 M3 for a month when building my motor. It's fast, but I got bored (maybe cause it didn't handle like my e30 though?). I never get bored in my car...ok, maybe not true. Sometimes when I'm in a straight line, I get real antsy "come on car, get up there, come on, faster!" - but I love my torque, LOVE IT TO DEATH! It's soo awesome! heheh

FYI, that e36 would run circles around your e30, unless your e30 set-up is heavily modified.

If all you are searching for is power and DD functionality, its probably easiest to drop a LS1 in there.

those two words don't belong in the same sentence on any e30 board.


OP, if you're not building a track car or even a little cafe racer... go with the stroker build. You'll be way more satisfied having built it yourself (if you've rebuilt m20's yourself before, you can probably stroke it yourself too. Yes, that sounded funny! haha). Only difference is I would do it with the original engine that's in the car... just to keep the og one in there. Swap in a spare m20 for a few weeks/months while you're doing the build. That would be cool and satisfying to know... "Yea, I've been working on this very motor since I could remember... It is a little different now though..."

good luck.

[e30esque]

Personally, I built a 2.7 stroker with SETA pistons, so it comes out to around 9.0-9.2 to 1. I really do love the car. With stock exhaust manifolds, stock chip, and just some larger injectors, I eat newer civic type Rs for breakfast. I have even beat a stock mazdaspeed 3. It really is plenty of power for the car and it feels great knowing that I built it with all M20 parts. This Thanksgiving break I'll be installing a set of shorty headers and a alpina replica chip that is meant to work with the 2.7 stroker. I think that is all I will end up doing to the motor. If I really want to go fast, I'm going with an M30 turbo. Dirt cheap, easy to swap, and I already have megasquirt and a turbo to go on it.

[Brandon12V]

the 3.1l stroker kit is not drop in. the block has to be notched for the crank to fit. To be honest, I'm in the same boat as you and I am going the stroker route except a 2.9l b/c the block doesn't have to be notched for clearance. Why? b/c it is more original and m20 blocks are cheap to replace... s50 swaps are so common now and since I'll be paying practically the same amount, I'd rather keep the m20 built. there will always be a guy with more power on the road but it's MY car and I want the extra throttle response I'll get with a race built motor. I also find these 20 year old motors less complicated when something breaks. Plus, I work at an auto shop so labor is free and any spare parts I need is less than 15 minutes away.... I live close to Zionsville Autosports and Reggie's Motorwerks. That being said, I may be in a more convinient spot than you. I'm also going through VAC motorsports as their customer care and quality is worth the extra money I'm paying in parts as oppose to IE. My build is quoted thus far at about 4k in parts for just the long block. i still have to buy a better radiator, oil cooler, injectors, tuning, and replacement parts such the water pump/belt and oil pump. My budget for the motor alone is 7k. This includes a $500 cushion for any mistakes. Add about $3-4k to your list of parts if you want your car's chassis to be able to handle the power.

[bimma360]

Personally, I built a 2.7 stroker with SETA pistons, so it comes out to around 9.0-9.2 to 1.

Correct me if i'm wrong.. but i'm pretty sure a SETA bottom end on an "i" car retains stock 2.5i cr of 8.5:1.

As far as this topic goes though... I really dont think there is a right or wrong here. It all comes down to your budget, what you want to achieve, and at the end of the day what will put a smile on your face driving.

IF i were in your shoes though i would keep the m20 and use the 8K to build it and turbo it. I would build a SETA bottom end to stock specs, only using heavy duty rods and pistons. I would build the head to stock specs. And put a dederic motorsport stage 3 turbo kit on it and run it @20psi. My 2.5i (all stock internals) motor put down 260whp and 297wft/lbs @12psi with a SMIC. Now combine that with a SETA bottom end, and i'm sure those numbers would be quite a bit different. Add another 8lbs of boost and that will be one hell of a monster no matter how outdated it is. Now of course i'm saying all of this b/c its what i'd like to ultimately do with my car. But like i said... at the end of day it really comes down to what will put a smile on your face.

Dave

[bimmer_E30]

M52 is fuckiiiinnnn sweeet.

[Wh33lhop]

Correct me if i'm wrong.. but i'm pretty sure a SETA bottom end on an "i" car retains stock 2.5i cr of 8.5:1.

Dave

It would retain stock SETA CR. 2.5i CR is 8.8:1.

[bimma360]

It would retain stock SETA CR. 2.5i CR is 8.8:1.

My mistake you are right, the 2.5i CR is 8.8:1. However, i'm pretty certain that the CR of a SETA bottom end in an "i" car does not change and stays at 8.8:1. Where it changes is using an ETA bottom end. Although i dont want to spread misinformation, so i'm all ears here. Perhaps several of you guys can chime in on this.

Dave

[nando]

a seta bottom end with an i head has the seta CR because they both use the same head, the difference is the cam and valve springs.