Aloha! New member going to look at E30 convertible today. Any advice?

[Shawn808]

Aloha! New member here from Hawaii and my 2nd thread. :) Have a 92 miata now but am looking to pick up a used E30 convertible also for a DD.

I am going to look at used 1987 E30 convertible today. Asking price is $900, but the leather is really worn, top is in bad shape (needs to be replaced) and paint is pretty much gone,(can see bare metal on some places), owner said the top works fine and so do the windows. (we will see) Unknown miles at this point. Other then what I found online (at bottom of this post) is there anything else I should look for before buying? I also have a few questions if you dont mind:

• How reliable are the 1987 E30 convertibles?
• Can I honestly use one as a Daily Driver?
• How long does the motor last before a rebuild? 100.000 miles etc?
• I heard there are many electrical bugs in the E30 anything I should look out for before buying one?
• Are the E30 convertibles prone to rust in certain areas?
• How much should I budget to bring it up to specs if its in bad shape 2K? 3K?

Found this buying guide online anything else I should be looking out for?

http://e30ic.com/buyguide.htm

• the timing belt on the M20 ($1500+ if it breaks, $250 before it breaks), profile gasket on the M42 ($1000+ to replace), etc)
• Leather interior is a high dollar item. The seats are convertible specific. It is common for the top of the rear seat to split, due to the leather drying out.
• Power tops may be an issue. If they are manually operated, they will need to be reset. A common failure is for the top motor casing to fail. See the power top page for more information.
• The convertible top is also a high dollar item. The condition of the top can make a significant change in the asking price of the car.
• Removable hardtops are a big plus. People that have them, love them. A hardtop alone will go for between $500-$1500.
• If certain features (airbag, for example) are important, take a look at the model year differences to see which years had those features.
• Front fenders, doors and interior are convertible specific.

**Any help you can provide will be appreciated. Thanks in advance,
Shawn

[whiltebeitel]

The drivetrain, with preventative maintenance, like the t-belt, can last upwards of 300,000 miles (I'm around 270,000 with LOTS of hard track miles). Look into how much a replacement top is. That may sway you to look at a coupe or sedan. M20 or M10 cars are dead reliable for the most part, and easy to work on.

[ZM Blue Devil]

replacing the top is not cheap, having done 3 in the last month for customers. You could easily get a bill for 1k+ for a new top...

Rust is common in the engine bay at the battery shelf(similar to non verts with batteries in the rear)

Also check for rust in the tool box, the third brake light gasket prone to failure... Easy fix is swap matching body color trunk from non vert and get rid of the light altogether.

Good luck.

[Shawn808]

Thanks for the quick replies guys the 87 is which motor the M20? I read somewhere on here the ignition or something got better after 89? Does this apply to the convertibles as well?

How difficult is it to replace the top? I know ebay listings say it comes with instructions. I replaced my miata top but it was a PAIN to do with all the little wires and rain rail etc.

Living in Hawaii I really want a convertible for year round top down driving.

[Dave McLaren]

I would blow off a $900 cabrio. Why even bother? Study the scene first, take your time, then spend five or six grand and get a nice car, ready to enjoy.

Then again, I did that and it still didn't work out. It just needed a little more power, and the stock wheels were weak, and... welcome to the slippery slope. If you are inclined to be that guy, wait even longer and you may find a well done project car that some douche like me spent tons of money on but desperately needs to unload.

Dave

[whiltebeitel]

The M20 is the 2.5L 6-cyl, the M10 is the older SOHC 1.8L 4-cyl.

A 5-6K car is one that is worth saving up for. Less crap you have to fix, and it's a great deal

[Shawn808]

Thanks for the advice guys. Well I am looking for a project car, going to swap out most things anyway and replace them with aftermarket stuff. Mtech 2 kit, coilovers, halo eye projectors, wheels+tires. (prob volk or BBS) Tan top and paint the car white.

I just need to know what to look for engine, body and interior wise that might cause me problems as those are areas I am not too familiar with. Like engine work and electrical problems. i.e. early model 90 to 91 miatas had a cam problem that comes up often. Just looking for inside tips like that but for the E30 of course.

Doesn't the 1997 Convertibles have like 160HP or something? I think thats more then enough. My 92 NA miata has only 110HP and the thing picks up and drives like its on rails. Could be a power to weight thing too IDK.

[bimmer_E30]

an M20 has 168hp and 164ft.tq.

[Vethen]

When looking about the engine compartment check around the tranny for oil leaks out the back, and check the rear seal to it as well. Like Blue Devil said check for rust in the battery bay, and I'd advise checking the last time the timing belt was maintenanced. E30's are some of the most durable cars I know of.

[E30 Cabrio]

Avoid auto trans cars.

Motor is good for 200k easily, but it helps to know how recently the T-Belt was last changed.

If no records, you should probably count on replacing the T-Belt.

These cars are very dependable, easy to work on and parts are plentiful and mostly inexpensive.

Electrical problems are few and far between.

The top is an expensive item.

Avoid power tops as they are prone to failure and expensive to fix.

Check the steering rack for leaks by squeezing the rubber ends and see if fluid leaks out or if there is any on your hand.

I would pass on this car and find a better example as you will end up spending more money on it than it will be worth.

You can find a decent, low-mileage convertible with service records for 3k or so with a little patience.

[MC Hammered]

Don't get an automatic. I bought one, owned it for 2 weeks and hated it.

Bought a new top off eBay and had it installed for around $1000. It doesn't leak and I get a lot of rain where I live.

Get picky and buy one in very good condition to start of with or do what I did and buy a premodded one off the r3v. I couldn't mod an e30 to the same level for the amount I paid for mine. There is a really sick black one for sale from Cali right now that would look sick cruising around on the island.

[txtorquemade]

Hold out for a hard top, sedan...or coupe. Verts are a PITA

[Shawn808]

Thanks for the replies.

Why is it that peps dont like the convertibles for? I live in Hawaii and its mostly year round top down driving here so I figure the vert will be perfect. I know the convertible top wears and the motor might go out. (but you can still put it down manually I believe.) Other then that is there a problem the convertible E30 has that the coupes dont have?

I am budgeting a new top but am wondering if there is something else about the verts I dont know about.

Thanks!

[Alkasquawlik]

Their chassis rigidity isn't as stiff as on the coupes/sedans, so people prefer those over the verts, but there are things you can buy to increase the rigidity.

[Disaster Inc]

The car your speaking of is an 87, so the top is manual so no worries there.

Rust on the rear floor plugs is common due to plugged up drain holes in the boot compartment, causing a soaked rear carpet. Rust also shows up in the license plate light area in the rear body.

Verts are the balls, I daily the shit outta mine. More road noise, wind leaks but who cares, its all worth it.

I don't know about there, but here used decent tops do turn up for under 5 bills.
The tops of the back seats are always junk, are vert specific and pretty hard to find used.

As already said M20's are pretty much bullet proof as long as you do the t belt when your supposed to...

My 88 vert is hands down the best car I've ever owned, and the most fun.

Good luck, keep us posted...