Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

ecu map question

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    ecu map question

    ok the car started running poorly last night about the time the temp started to drop like crazy (about 20*) i limped it home did the stomp test and got a 1215 code (MAF) checked the wiring and got it to intermittently run. overnight the temp dropped into the 40's.
    got up early and started checking wiring and replaced a scotch tap (there is no way around using them in this case) with a push on connector type. did the stomp test again adn got a 1444 code (all clear/ no codes), but it still would not fire.
    i pulled the plugs and they were wet with gas. cleaned them and it fired right up for about a min then died. pulled a plug and wet with gas again. so it is prob over fueling.

    i am running a split second arc2a with a t bird maf and 24lb injectors on a 2.7 stroker with a bubch of work.
    the signal conditioner allows me to "dial back" the injectors so they will work just fine, but this is the first time it has gotten cold since i have put in the injectors. BTW this is like a piggyback system so i am using the stock ecu/fuel maps.

    my question is.......
    with the stock fuel map,bwhen it is really cold or there is a drastic temp drop, does it run super rich on start up so it will warm up quickly? if so that would explain the wet plugs and i just need to lean out the idle adjustment on the signal conditioner to make up for the injector size and the temp difference.

    any insite???
    seien Sie größer, als Sie erscheinen


    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

    #2
    bump anyone with technical knowledge other than coloured SS brake lines?
    seien Sie größer, als Sie erscheinen


    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

    Comment


      #3
      I had all kinds of problems with a chipped stock ecu for 24# injectors. Lots of flooding. I would recommended either getting a wideband on the car once you get it started in order to quantify how rich it is trying to make the system and dial it back or swapping to 19#ers.

      There is a extra rich warm up enrichment when it starts getting really cold, you might be able to heat the AIT (stock is in the AFM) where ever that is to fool the ecu.
      :: PNW Crew ::
      '87 325 4dr, '74 2002

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by der affe View Post
        ok the car started running poorly last night about the time the temp started to drop like crazy (about 20*) i limped it home did the stomp test and got a 1215 code (MAF) checked the wiring and got it to intermittently run. overnight the temp dropped into the 40's.
        got up early and started checking wiring and replaced a scotch tap (there is no way around using them in this case) with a push on connector type. did the stomp test again adn got a 1444 code (all clear/ no codes), but it still would not fire.
        i pulled the plugs and they were wet with gas. cleaned them and it fired right up for about a min then died. pulled a plug and wet with gas again. so it is prob over fueling.

        i am running a split second arc2a with a t bird maf and 24lb injectors on a 2.7 stroker with a bubch of work.
        the signal conditioner allows me to "dial back" the injectors so they will work just fine, but this is the first time it has gotten cold since i have put in the injectors. BTW this is like a piggyback system so i am using the stock ecu/fuel maps.

        my question is.......
        with the stock fuel map,bwhen it is really cold or there is a drastic temp drop, does it run super rich on start up so it will warm up quickly? if so that would explain the wet plugs and i just need to lean out the idle adjustment on the signal conditioner to make up for the injector size and the temp difference.

        any insite???
        yes, all electronic fuel injected cars run richer on startup. Carb'd cars accomplish the same thing with a choke. But you'd need to be able to adjust the warmup curve, merely changing the idle adjustment when cold will mean it will run too lean once warmed up.

        You need standalone, buddy. ;)
        Build thread

        Bimmerlabs

        Comment


          #5
          yea, i know....looking down kicking rocks. everytime i get the cash together something comes up.

          how much better would it be with 19lb injectors?
          my friend is giving me a set tomarrow. i may see if i can use that and a 19lb chip to get me through until i can do the MS. the 14.5lb injectors that were in it were deff too small for the motor combo.
          seien Sie größer, als Sie erscheinen


          Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

          Comment


            #6
            thanks for the responces BTW!
            seien Sie größer, als Sie erscheinen


            Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by der affe View Post
              yea, i know....looking down kicking rocks. everytime i get the cash together something comes up.

              how much better would it be with 19lb injectors?
              my friend is giving me a set tomarrow. i may see if i can use that and a 19lb chip to get me through until i can do the MS. the 14.5lb injectors that were in it were deff too small for the motor combo.
              probably much better. 24# are quite a bit bigger than stock.
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

              Comment

              Working...
              X