removing stuck stud..

[87-325ic]

Alright, many of you may know of my valve cover stud problem. I need some more opinions now.
I just went at it with a propane torch and vice grips. here's my problems.

I cant get a good hold of the stud since it only sticks out 3/4" and is right next to the front hoist bracket. theres not much room to get a grip around it. plus i cant get the bracket off without removing the distributor cap and rotor and front timing belt cover. and the distributor is a bitch to take off without the radiator removed.

after trying for 30 minutes with multiple pairs of tools. i tried the other studs... And they all just came right out. WTF!? they had been loctited too and i thought they may stuck bad too. A few pull off some aluminum threads with them too but not too badly.

-> I'm wondering if the heat may have expanded the stud or head, making it stuck even more.. or if the plain old 30 degree weather today may have shrunk the metals some, making the others come right out.
Or maybe that stud had a lot more loctite on it, but it shouldnt have.

Any suggestions folks? from drilling it out and re-tapping it, to trying something else to get it out, or welding a little bit more of another stud onto the end just to get a nut on it.

What should i do here?!?!?
thanks.

[McGyver]

try a lug out or a nut out set from sears. they work amazingly well!

[e30:)]

try putting it in a drill like you would a drill bit and see if it will back out

[thedeal]

put two nuts on there and lock them together, or better yet weld a nut to it. Then just unscrew it! Presto!

[87-325ic]

not enough room for anything more than the nut to go on, i have two on there tightened to each other, but i dont think the threads have much left.

how does the nut out set work?

edit: i thought about welding the nut to it too... seems like the next best idea.

[lennon]

if you really cant get it out and theres not room for two nuts, weld a nut on there.

[87-325ic]

i read about this on the interweb a little more. it seems that TIG welding the nut on, and then adding some Kroil to the threads always works..

why is TIG so much better than just tacking the nut on with any ol welder, and wtf is Kroil.

[Rigmaster]

Kroil is some expensive penetrant similar to PB BLaster, etc.

Just because someone said they TiG'ed something and used Kroil doesn't mean it's the only way, they probably just used the equipment and supplies they had on hand.


Just weld the nut on the stud using a Mig or Arc welder- it doesnt' really matter what you use as long as is gets stuck onto the stud.

[lennon]

mig tig arc whatever just weld it on there, if you break the weld you didnt weld it right. removing a stud is simple dude! dont over think it, just get it out.

[87-325ic]

hell yeah. thanks.

i just dont understand why this one stud is so much worse.

would it be smart to re-tap all the threads in the head, or at least the bad ones?

[87-325ic]

@#(*#&$# that bolt!

So heres the deal.
i loosened the bolts on the front timing cover and was able to move the bracket forward a half inch, this let me get a better grip on it with some vice grips. since i had taken all day trying to find someone with a welder (since the one i thought i could use ended up being 220 volt) and having no luck.. i went to other options.

with the vice grips on it, i twist, the top's turning,, SNAP!
of course.

so now its broken off at head level. i flattened and center punched the bolt. but my drill bit would not stay centered. its an M6 bolt, its about 1/4 inch wide, its small.
i couldnt keep my drill bit on the center and i started sliding towards the head aluminum. so i stopped.

What do i do now? try again, and what tips would you offer for that..

Or, pull the head and take it to a machine shop. and pay the price?!

give me your thoughts..

[dkmr]

I've worked at a machine shop for quite a few years. Whenever we see this kind of break/ stuck stud we drill a small hole in the stud (1/8 in or smaller). The drill bit should be a good sharp one. drill with the small bit then when your through the stud/ bolt increase the size of your bit until you get to a screw extractor size. Then heat the stud/ bolt red hot or close, as soon as you remove the torch from the peice then dab a wax candle on it melting the wax. Let it cool for a couple minutes. 90% of the broken studs/ bolts come out hand tight. I've used this method while I was an engine machinist and now use it on oilfeild trucks.

Good Luck

[Adrian_Visser]

so the wax is acting as a penetrant?

[87-325ic]

i saw that on a bunch of online searches.. they all said beeswax specifically.

the problem is that its such a small bolt, by the time i drill a little 1/8th inch hole in it, theres not much left to grab a hold with the exctractor. and.. every extractor ive ever tried has Always broken its tip off in the hole, making it much worse for me.

[Adrian_Visser]

Well snap on sells left hand twist drill bits for this kind of thing. If you're lucky the drill bit will grab hard enough and turn the stud out. Buy a good quality easy out set too don't cheap out.