GC Adjusters stuck on trailing arms!
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that's true, rubber mallets generally suck for working on cars, but I wouldn't want to damage the threads. maybe use a block of wood to hit on it with. -
Everybody said rubber mallet, but I bet you could do it much easier and safer with a 5+lb. deadblow hammer. It is my suggested method for beating on a car, and they are cheap as dirt at harbor freight. I have a bunch I have beat the piss out of, and had only one of them explode on rusty rotors and such.Leave a comment:
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that won't stop rocks/grime from getting worked in there. that's why they get stuck.Leave a comment:
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yeah, rubber hammer. I usually take mine off to clean them once a year and make sure no shit/rust is stuck in there. they get stuck.Leave a comment:
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Ah yes. Priceless comment that happens far too often and seldomly noted. :D
But yes, rubber mallet should do the trick. It sounds like it would work better than my idea, which would be to pry it off the collar with a rag wrapped in a prybar.
- ErickLeave a comment:
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The anodization should be able to take the heat fine. Aluminum, on the other hand, cannot take that much heat without affecting its mechanical properties. Torching something is an inexact process and I would not recommend it on aluminum. I would use PB Blaster and a rubber mallet or soft wood and a hammer to promote penetration. Time and cursing are the other two requried elements.Leave a comment:
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I'll pick up some PB blaster on the way home. Granted I haven't gotten to forceful with them yet either.Leave a comment:
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Tons of PB Blaster? You could also try using a torch to heat up the sleeves, but I'm not sure how much heat the andodization can take.Leave a comment:
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GC Adjusters stuck on trailing arms!
Guys, I sold my coilovers to a member here and getting everything else off the car hasn't been a problem.
I'm having a serious time getting these off the trailing arms, obviously, I'm trying to make sure I don't gouge/damage them etc.
Any ideas?Tags: None

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